splitter debugging help

[firegazer]

Hi folks,
My dad bought a used splitter a few years ago. Nothing too fancy. But somewhere along the way it has lost most of its splitting power. Now the ram often stops moving when up against a log with big knots, etc. If I release the control handle and then return it to the forward position, it often makes another inch or so of progress. Sometimes it takes backing off the log a couple of inches, then heading forward again. I'm looking for advice on how to troubleshoot it. As far as I figure, there is either

1. leakage in the pump seals
2. leakage in the control valve seals
3. malfunction in the control valve pressure relief
4. leakage in the cylinder seals.

I can test for (4) by retracting the ram all the way, shutting off the engine, disconnecting the hose from the back end of the cylinder, restarting the engine, trying to move the cylinder in reverse, and watching for fluid coming out of the open cylinder fitting. Seems OK. I was about to buy $70 worth of fittings and a pressure gauge to test the other options, but I realized I didn't have a clear plan to differentiate between 1, 2, and 3. Any place in the system I plumb in a pressure gauge (between pump and controller, or between controller and cylinder), I expect I'll see the same pressure build and then fall off once the splitter stops progressing on a tough log.

Any tips here?

Thx

 

[Retired Marine]

I was about to buy $70 worth of fittings and a pressure gauge to test the other options

I would look into a new log splitter valve for your machine. It might be cheaper and less of a headache to change it out instead. If you knew that was the problem.

Feel the exhaust for good pressure, meaning good cylinder in engine.

The pump on mine has gears that meet once engaged, check for excessive wear.

If my valve is left on return, it won't start back up, like when running out of gas. See if yours will start with the valve in return mode, not neutral if you will, that could show a valve problem.


Or read other posts and disregard my info, haha.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/splitter-has-no-power-in-wood.184481/

 

[skooter]

I would look into a new log splitter valve for your machine. It might be cheaper and less of a headache to change it out instead. If you knew that was the problem.

Feel the exhaust for good pressure, meaning good cylinder in engine.

The pump on mine has gears that meet once engaged, check for excessive wear.

If my valve is left on return, it won't start back up, like when running out of gas. See if yours will start with the valve in return mode, not neutral if you will, that could show a valve problem.


Or read other posts and disregard my info, haha.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/splitter-has-no-power-in-wood.184481/

 

[triptester]

Disregard 1 and 2, there are no internal seals in the pump or control valve.
The control valve could have a broken spring in the relief adjustment.
The coupling between the engine and the pump could be slipping.

 

[firegazer]

Disregard 1 and 2, there are no internal seals in the pump or control valve.
The control valve could have a broken spring in the relief adjustment.
The coupling between the engine and the pump could be slipping.

Thanks for the input

I've looked inside the relief adjuster ... the spring is not broken, and surfaces look clean.
We replaced the set screw mounting of the coupler hub on the pump shaft with a key last year, because there was some slippage. But that didn't cure it all.

 

[ray benson]

How do you know where to set the relief pressure on the control valve without a gauge?

 

[firegazer]

Good question. The first time I inspected the relief spring/port, I measured the position of the set screw (with calipers) before I pulled it out, and then I reset it back in the same place.

 

[ray benson]

Good question. The first time I inspected the relief spring/port, I measured the position of the set screw (with calipers) before I pulled it out, and then I reset it back in the same place.

If it wasn't producing the required pressure for splitting when you took it apart and measured. Then you put it back, it still may need to adjusted. Pressure gauge( liquid filled), pipe nipple and a close nipple all rated for high pressure would be needed.

 

[milkie62]

Yes you need a gauge to see what pressure you are developing when it peters out. Most factory settings I have seen are in the 2300-2350 psi setting for splitter valves.