Splitter help please

[Jason85]

I came across a guy the other day selling a broken log splitter, so i bought it for $200 its a 2006 mtd splitter model number 24BF572B729. The guy put a newer cylinder on it because the end cap blew out of the other one he said, and every since then it hasn't worked. when he put the new cylinder on, he moved the control valve from being directly mounted to the cylinder to being mounted on a bracket. I tried to get the motor running on it, but it didn't have spark so i put a spare i had on it, it is a briggs and stratton 6.75 from a pressure washer that died.

My wife is going to the hydraulic store tomorrow to get two T's to install a gauge between the pump and control valve and one between the control valve and the cylinder, and i'm also going to get her to pick up a cap, so i can test the cylinder for internal bypass, i have read here some and this seems to be the first things to check.

I plan on removing the suction side filter as the splitter already has a spin on filter on the return side, i would love to put a gauge on the return side to measure restriction so you would know when to change the filter but i am unsure which one to get as i am new to splitter and hydraulics. I have read on the internet some people put hydraulic fluid and some put automatic dextron III transmission fluid in them for fluid, what do you guys run ??

 

[John R]

I use regular hydraulic oil in mine, seems to work good, and it's cheaper than ATF.

 

[gulity1]

I run hyd fluid in mine as stated above ATF can get expensive fleet and farm stores or TSC has 5gal buckets for 35-50 a shot. I would not recommend trying to put a pressure gauge on the return side, too costly. So after installing the motor what is going on with the splitter? Be careful putting a pressure gauge between the pump and the valves- there is no pressure relief valve In between the two. You can build enough pressure up in the blink of an eye and twist the shaft off of the pump if you deadhead the pump into a gauge, Ive done it-- oops. Just a work to the wise that's all

 

[blades]

Check that he didn't run the new lines wrong when he moved the valve and replaced the cylinder, if you could be more specific it would help. Good on the gauge that will help isolate things.

 

[Jason85]

i tried to reverse the lines it did nothing, soon as the wedge touches the wood it stops and the motor bogs a little.

 

[PA Dan]

Post up some pictures and somebody might see something that might not be quite right!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[jags]

Get that gauge in line so we can start to see whats is/isn't happening.

 

[jdhacker]

I had mine do the same thing, the problem was the high pressure gear set broke in the pump. I installed a new pump and all was well.

 

[Jason85]

i took the suction filter out and cleaned it but it was not bad at all, it had a spot on it with gunk about the size of a penny.

alright with the motor running, the gauge on the supply line to the control valve reads 0 which i guess is right because if the valve is an open center that means the oil circulates while the valve is in the neutral position.

while the cylinder is extending or retracting, the gauge reads 0...once the wedge touches the wood BOTH gauges read about 500 psi, then when retracting it reads 0 again.

i unhooked the return line on the control valve and put a cap on the control valve port and as i extended the wedge it puked a little oil out of the hose but as soon as the wedge touched the wood, the line was gushing into my bucket. i'm guessing if i would have unhooked the wrong line, the cylinder wouldn't have extended right ??

So does this mean the pump is bad AND the cylinder is leaking internally ??

 

[jdhacker]

Sounds like you have low pressure only, low pressure will put out around 500 to 750 psi. Take your pump off take it apart, you will most likely find broke gear set. Of course im not their, but mine done exactly the same thing, I took the pump apart and the high pressure gear set was broke.

 

[Jason85]

what about the oil puking from the return hose when the splitter is trying to split ?? it will be at least tomorrow before i can pull the pump and start to take it apart, are they pretty simple ?? i have rebuilt car engines, outboard motors and small engines maybe the pump wont be too bad to take apart.

 

[jags]

Before you start pulling stuff apart, move that gauge to the back of the cylinder. Read the pressure there when you are trying to split a log (or stalling the cylinder out).

 

[triptester]

You can take the pump apart but no repair parts are available and rarely can the pump be reassembled and work properly due to the tolerances required.

 

[Jason85]

i took the pump apart, there was a keyway on the small set of gears that was broken and the needle bearing cage or "retainer" was broken and a couple of the needle bearings were missing...so new pump it is

 

[jdhacker]

Glad you found the problem, a pump is not that high, and you will have a cheep splitter.

 

[jags]

i took the pump apart, there was a keyway on the small set of gears that was broken and the needle bearing cage or "retainer" was broken and a couple of the needle bearings were missing...so new pump it is

Sounds like a plan.

 

[Marshy]

Why not just get a new bearing and key and repair the pump for pennies compared to a new pump? Are the gears damaged?

 

[Jason85]

the gears were not damaged but i have been told parts are not available and northerntool has the pump for what i think is a good price and it will be new not patched.