Splitter hydraulic tanks and axles

[TreePointer]

I'm in the market for my first hydraulic splitter, and I have some questions about what I've been seeing.

The Huskee models at TSC have the hydraulic reservoir going the length of the axle. Are there any disadvantages to this configuration as opposed to a side reservoir?

I also noticed that the Huskees don't have a full axle. I'm guesssing that a model with a full axle would be more durable. Is this correct thinking?

 

[Soilarch]

I'm no engineer, but working on a farm will teach a guy how to pick out the "weak link" in a lot of designs. A full axle isn't always stronger but usually is...what I should say is that you can make spindles as strong as an axle but it will take much more material.


As to the reservoir, without seeing it (or being an engineer) I'd say maybe it's for balance!?!? That's a long shot. Or to protect it from getting banged up?

A lot of stuff today is not built for best performance, it's built to meet certain criteria (features and price point) and they use parts made for something else...they just stick it wherever it will fit or look the least ugly. Might have stuck if there so they could use a shorter length of hose as well. (Material costs)

 

[boostnut]

I'm not sure I'd get hung up on the strength of the axle. I dont recall reading posts here about broken axle assemblies. I would be more concerned with a fixed axle vs. one with a suspension. You could build the strongest axle known to man and without a suspension you're going to tear something up if you tow it on a road on a regular basis (at least here in illinois).

Now the hydraulic tank. The only potential disadvantages to the tank/axle combo I see are the location is typically lower than the pump and the bulky tank is usually in the operators way when splitting horizontally. If I had it to do all over again I woulda started with an old boat or utility trailer with a leaf spring suspension, scrapped the horiz/vert design in favor of a horiz w/log lift and a tank mounted out of the way. Good luck!

 

[triptester]

The reason for tank/axle combinations are mainly for cost saving. The long and narrow tank is more effective for cooling purposes by increasing the distance between suction and return. The disadvantage is the tank is more subject to damage in the area of the axle welds when towed over rough terrain.

 

[TreePointer]

Thanks to all for your thoughts and info!

 

[John D]

Hydro oil will run much cooler that way.A lot more surface area,and meaterial to dissipate heat.

 

[nickblaze466]

Hydro oil will run much cooler that way.A lot more surface area,and meaterial to dissipate heat.

how does that make sense? i don't get it?

 

[triptester]

When the tank capacity is the same a long and narrow tank allows for greater distance between supply and return lines providing more time to cool. Another example is to take 2 pieces of metal both weighing the same but one is thick and the other is thin. Place them in a oven until they are at the same temperature. After they are removed from the oven the thin piece will cool quicker.

 

[John D]

how does that make sense? i don't get it?

Makes perfect sense,the oil gives up its heat quicker in a long thin tank,than a square one.More surface area,and more time moving right to left across the tank it than in a square tank.It helps even more that its hooked to the axles/hubs,it will give off heat to the axle/hubs as well.Look at how air cooling fins are designed,long and thin,so pull the most heat possible,the tank is doing the same thing.Also by being low,it is away from engine,and exhaust heat.The only negative I see is the oil pickup is lower than the pump,not a problem,but if you lost prime during an oil change, you may need to get the air out of the suction line before it will pick it up.

 

[England14]

The only negative I see is the oil pickup is lower than the pump,not a problem,but if you lost prime during an oil change, you may need to get the air out of the suction line before it will pick it up.

Which begs to wonder. How often do you need to change oil?

 

[avalancher]

If you keep your filter clean by changing it out at regular intervals, there is no need to change out hydralic fluid. If it becomes contaminated with something that the filter will not remove, such as water, then it would warrant a change.
Oil does not wear out, contrary to poplar belief, but becomes contaminated.
When I served in the Navy, we changed lube oil on machinery on a regular basis, ran it through a purifier, and dumped it right back into the machine looking like brand new oil.
the carrier that I served on was over 50 years old, and according to my chief, they had never brought new oil on board for anything.And that was for pieces of equipement that costs over several million dollars!

 

[John D]

If you keep your filter clean by changing it out at regular intervals, there is no need to change out hydralic fluid. If it becomes contaminated with something that the filter will not remove, such as water, then it would warrant a change.
Oil does not wear out, contrary to poplar belief, but becomes contaminated.
When I served in the Navy, we changed lube oil on machinery on a regular basis, ran it through a purifier, and dumped it right back into the machine looking like brand new oil.
the carrier that I served on was over 50 years old, and according to my chief, they had never brought new oil on board for anything.And that was for pieces of equipement that costs over several million dollars!

Good info ,only problem is the navys machinery was designed to run 50 yrs+,they didnt need to meet emission standards or conform to certain space ,and manufacturing limitations.the Navys engines run cool,and ships have big slow turning engines,some only run 100-200RPM at full load,and with excess capacity to keep the oil cool,so that even after years it did not break down. Todays small engines,and hydraulic systems run on minimal oil capacity,and are required to run extremely hot to burn off emissions,so the oil is working much harder. The other issue with small equipment that sits is they pick up moisture from sitting,unlike the navys engines which run constantly.If you intend to keep your splitter or small engine,it would be best to change the hydro oil and filter occasionally. Most of my full hydro commercial equipment (greensmowers,tractors,and rotary mowers)has 2 yr or 600-1000 hr hydro oil change intervals.If i had a splitter I think id go with the 2 yrs,just to be safe,esp if it sits alot,and it left outside.

 

[dolmen]

Here is a couple of pics of the tank on my almost completed splitter ...

I was in the right place at the right time to save this very suitable tank ;-)

Cheers

 

[loghog]

tank lower than pump

my tillston spliter has the tank over the axle but lawer than the pump.there are warning sighns on it that says if the oil gets low it will damage the pump.the discharge hose from the valve to the tank is clear so you can see the oil flow,when you crank it up be sure the oil is flowing through the pump.

 

[dingeryote]

If you keep your filter clean by changing it out at regular intervals, there is no need to change out hydralic fluid. If it becomes contaminated with something that the filter will not remove, such as water, then it would warrant a change.
Oil does not wear out, contrary to poplar belief, but becomes contaminated.
When I served in the Navy, we changed lube oil on machinery on a regular basis, ran it through a purifier, and dumped it right back into the machine looking like brand new oil.
the carrier that I served on was over 50 years old, and according to my chief, they had never brought new oil on board for anything.And that was for pieces of equipement that costs over several million dollars!

Avalancher,

Water contamination is still no excuse to change hydro fluid.

Let the thing sit undisturbed for a day or two, and the water will seperate and settle in the bottom of the tank.

Drain off a couple quarts into a clear 1 Gallon Pickle jar, and let it sit for a couple days, then siphon the water out from the bottom of the jar.

Also the water can be removed by heating the contaminated fluid on an electric hot plate. Just be carefull of whoofing the stuff with exposed flames nearby.

Hydro filters mounted threads up, and at the lowest point in the sytem, act as a collection point for water in the oil. It' a good/bad thing.
If they freeze up cuz ya didn't change the filter in time, you could roach a pump. If you do change the filter before cold operating season, you remove most of the water in the oil.

Hydro is expensive stuff and I'm a cheap bastard.

Stay Safe!
Dingeryote