Splitter Valves plumbing

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iowa

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I have a question about my 2 valves and how to plumb them.

The question is. Can I put a short nipple between the 2 valves? So coming out of the left valve going into the right valve. Obviously the in will be coming from the pump on the left valve and the out on the right valve going to tank.

Thanks.

260307d1351735098-imag0419-jpg
 
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I don't believe you can do that. You need a Power Beyond type valve to do that. Pictured below is my set up and you can see the difference. The one on the left is a full auto cycle valve. With the Power Beyond plug installed it feeds another 2 spool valve. Note BOTH valves have separate out going lines to go back to the tank.

MVC-021S_34.JPG


For more of the lines runs go to the last page of my build thread.


http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/206143.htm
 
I have a question about my 2 valves and how to plumb them.

The question is. Can I put a short nipple between the 2 valves? So coming out of the left valve going into the right valve. Obviously the in will be coming from the pump on the left valve and the out on the right valve going to tank.

Thanks.
Thats the way I did mine & it works fine. went to the splitter valve first ,then to the log lift valve. I used a short piece of 3/4 " presure hose there.
 
Thats the way I did mine & it works fine. went to the splitter valve first ,then to the log lift valve. I used a short piece of 3/4 " presure hose there.

I wonder if I can put the lift valve first. I would rather have them placed that way.
 
After talking to a guy at Prince valve I opted to get a valve with power beyond port to supply the valve for my log lift. He said the valve wasn't designed for that type of setup and it would eventually fail. Go to prince valve web site and find the diagrams that are helpful for your situation.
 
After talking to a guy at Prince valve I opted to get a valve with power beyond port to supply the valve for my log lift. He said the valve wasn't designed for that type of setup and it would eventually fail. Go to prince valve web site and find the diagrams that are helpful for your situation.

Thanks! I will look into it today!
 
Ok. I just called the local dist. He said it would be better to T off my inlet line from the pump to each valve seperately. Then T back the oultets going back to the tank..
 
Thinking about what he said doesn't make sense and I don't think it will work. These are open center valves. So if I do it the way he said, the fluid will take the path of least resistance. And my valves won't work.. :bang:
 
I have a question about my 2 valves and how to plumb them.

The question is. Can I put a short nipple between the 2 valves? So coming out of the left valve going into the right valve. Obviously the in will be coming from the pump on the left valve and the out on the right valve going to tank.

Thanks.

260307d1351735098-imag0419-jpg

I had the same thoughts as you when building my splitter, and the answer was NO. I understand the want to do so, because those valves are cheaper than a dual spool valve, but they will not work as you want them too. Can I assume you want to run a lift, as well as your ram?
 
Thinking about what he said doesn't make sense and I don't think it will work. These are open center valves. So if I do it the way he said, the fluid will take the path of least resistance. And my valves won't work.. :bang:

Those look like the same valves I bought through surpluscenter? They are real good about returns and they have the dual spool for not too much more.
 
Absolutely NO WAY can you tee the pressure side. All valves must be run in series in an open center system.

Best way to do it is to get a valve with PB for your first valve. I don't recommend plumbing the 'out' from the first vale to the 'in' on the second. You can have pressure spikes going back to the 'out' in the first valve, which it is not designed to handle.

The only line that can be tee'd is the return to the tank.

This is not aimed at you, but I see it here so often, it bears repeating. Never, NEVER, use iron plumbing fittings on the pressure side of a hydraulic system. These are generally designed to handle 150 PSI, NOT the 2000 to 3000 PSI of a hydraulic system !! I have seen pictures of guys splitters here on AS waaay too often with plumbing fittings on the pressure side. This is serious injury and gangreen waiting to happen.
 
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Absolutely NO WAY can you tee the pressure side. All valves must be run in series in an open center system.

Best way to do it is to get a valve with PB for your first valve. I don't recommend plumbing the 'out' from the first vale to the 'in' on the second. You can have pressure spikes going back the the 'out' in the first valve, which it is not designed to handle.

The only line that can be tee'd is the return to the tank.

This is not aimed at you, but is I see it here so oftern, it bears repeating. Never, NEVER, use iron plumbing fittings on the pressure side of a hydraulic system. These are generally designed to handle 150 PSI, NOT the 2000 to 3000 PSI of a hydraulic system !! I have seen pictures of guys splitters here on AS waaay too often with plumbing pittings on the pressure side. This is serious injury and gangreen waiting to happen.

I strongly agree, proper fitting are a MUST, not the place to shortcut.
 
I bought them from northern tool. I will have to see when I bought them. But thinking not quite a yr ago. I wonder if they will allow me to return them in exchange for a different one? These are untouched.

And yes I know to ONLY use hyd fittings and lines! I'm a tool and die maker in a large plastic injection factory. I repair large molds with big hyd cylinders etc. You don't wanna know how many molds we have that had been repaired with black pipe fittings etc. Just a couple months ago a guy made a hyd hose out of water hose. Had hyd fittings on both ends. It blew instantly. Luckily the guys who put the hose on were not hurt. They grabbed the bum hose from a large box and were testing a cyl.
 
Hooking the two valves together has been done, and in theory would probably work ok as long as you are using one at a time. They are not designed to be run that way and you may or may not be looking at an accident at some point. I just wouldn't recommend it. The right way is PB on the first valve, and tee the returns before the tank if you need to.... or get a multi spool valve (the stack valves are slick).
 
Hooking the two valves together has been done, and in theory would probably work ok as long as you are using one at a time. They are not designed to be run that way and you may or may not be looking at an accident at some point. I just wouldn't recommend it. The right way is PB on the first valve, and tee the returns before the tank if you need to.... or get a multi spool valve (the stack valves are slick).

What's PB?
 
What's PB?

Power Beyond port. Make sure you say you want that type of valve. The guy I bought my stuff from was great about explaining what works and what doesn't as he builds these for a living. I'd recommend him highly as HE stood behind the stuff he sold me and took care of any problems.
 
Power Beyond port. Make sure you say you want that type of valve. The guy I bought my stuff from was great about explaining what works and what doesn't as he builds these for a living. I'd recommend him highly as HE stood behind the stuff he sold me and took care of any problems.

Ok. Well I need to exchange these 2 valves for one of them at northern tool. IF they let me! Otherwise I will have to eBay these and buy one.
 
Does anyone know what model # valve I need from prince? I need one to spring to center for log lift and the other I want a detent to retract the splitting ra
 
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