Splitter Wedge

[RAYINTOMBALL]

Im in the process of building a log splitter and am looking for a pre fab wedge. Going to have 4" bore cylinder with 2" rod and 24" stroke with a barnes 16 gpm 2 stage pump 8 hp engine. Going to be able to run vertical and horizontal so need wedge to go on cylinder rod. Have 6" H beam 25 lb
per foot. Can't seem to find one online any help anyone can give is really appreciated. Has anyone out there tried the cylinder and wedge from Northern Tool. I have looked at that one but don't know how well its built.
Thanks,
Ray

 

[SWI Don]

If I was wanting to build a hor / vert, I would probably go the Northern kit route. You have the correct size beam for that setup.

Don

 

[jags]

I used the wedge from Northern. No problems. Just make sure that it is welded with low hydrogen rod (as per instructions for the wedge). It is a hardened wedge. I got the 8 inch, but I wish I would have gotten the 12 (hmmmm....that sounds familiar some how:biggrinbounce2: )

 

[Ford's Lawncare]

From what I've heard, it works a lot easier to weld your wedge on your I-beam instead of on the jack. I've only owned splitters with the wedge on the I-beam, and they do work well, however I can not say much for having the wedge on the rod, because I have never used one like that. If the wedge is on the I-beam, it will also be a lot easier to make one yourself

 

[jags]

The wedge is typically NEVER welded to the cylinder rod. The wedge is welded to a carrier that slides on the I beam, and the rod is typically MECHANICALLY attached to that. There should be a small amount of play built into the mechanical union of the wedge and piston rod. You will really put alot of un-needed stress on the piston rod if it is solid to the wedge.

Edit for clarity: by saying "the rod is typically MECHANICALLY attached to that", I mean that the rod will THEN be attached to the wedge/carrier assembly.

 

[Al Smith]

I think what the man was implying is the fact that with a tip up type splitter that the wedge device needs to be attached to the rod end of the cylinder rather than to the foot of the beam.

This would be correct on every splitter of that design I've ever seen.Including the 27 ton rated one near my woodpile as I type.

 

[jags]

I think what the man was implying is the fact that with a tip up type splitter that the wedge device needs to be attached to the rod end of the cylinder rather than to the foot of the beam.

This would be correct on every splitter of that design I've ever seen.Including the 27 ton rated one near my woodpile as I type.

Yeah, Yeah...what he said

My other point was with the vert/horizontal type splitters the wedge should never be welded to the ram shaft, but mechanically attached (with a small amount of play)

 

[mga]

northern tool has a couple of nice wedges at a great price. they're A2 steel. you can get either an 8" or a 12".

i suggest the 12".

as the guys have said...you'll have to design and build a carrier for the wedge if you're going to use it on the end of the ram. or, just make your own wedge if you have the steel.

 

[David Wayne]

I am sure if you are building your own splitter you have the skill to make your own wedge. Mine is solid, rather than the hollow core that came on my splitter. hope the pictures come through

 

[David Wayne]

northern tool has a couple of nice wedges at a great price. they're A2 steel. you can get either an 8" or a 12".

i suggest the 12".

as the guys have said...you'll have to design and build a carrier for the wedge if you're going to use it on the end of the ram. or, just make your own wedge if you have the steel.

Ideally you will want the cyl.rod centered top to bottom on the wedge, too much wedge above the rod will put excess srtess on the carrier.

 

[mga]

Ideally you will want the cyl.rod centered top to bottom on the wedge, too much wedge above the rod will put excess srtess on the carrier.

you're correct.

i wrote the first part thinking he was going to have the wedge welded to the beam.....then i noticed the part about tilting it.

lol..i thought i had my dupa covered when i suggested making his own wedge.

at least i know people are reading the posts.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[blackdoggy]

I got a better idea why don't you weld up one with 1/2" plate and buy a chunk of my A2 (that is very reasonably priced) and weld or silver solder it into place as your cutting edge?

 

[RAYINTOMBALL]

Hey everyone thanks alot for the info. Yeah I have to build a carrier that slides up and down the I beam. David Wayne great pics. I'm going to build one like yours. Did you get the center part of the wedge you built from Northern tool?


Thanks Ray

 

[David Wayne]

No, Ray, I cut all three sections from a 1"x 8" piece of flat steel & milled the edge. I didn't have to do any math on the location of the mouting hole or length of wedge as I was copying the original,I did make it about 1" taller & everything heavier. It weighs about 50 lbs. If you want more details I will be glad to help when I can, I work the next four days 12 hrs but will try to check in.

Dave

 

[Al Smith]

I got a better idea why don't you weld up one with 1/2" plate and buy a chunk of my A2 (that is very reasonably priced) and weld or silver solder it into place as your cutting edge?

A2 is pretty tough stuff but I never heard of anybody using it for a splitter wedge .I've used it to make metal cutting tools,hobbs etc but that is an entirely different subject.

Usually they are just made of mild steel and hold up pretty well.

 

[blackdoggy]

The way I see it if you use A2 (or any other tool steel) as your cutting edge your not going to half to worry about dulling your wedge when it his cement or some ones old bike frame they stuck in the tree lol. But seriously the benefits of a hardened edge for your wedge makes allot of since because you can put a wicked sharp edge on it and keep it there longer than you would with mild cold or hot rolled steel.

 

[triptester]

A sharp edge on a splitter is not necessary because the front edge usually only contacts the wood during the first 1 inch or less of penetration. After the initial start of penetration the sides of the wedge are the only thing in contact with the wood. A sharp edge is only needed when cutting across the wood grain.

 

[RAYINTOMBALL]

Maybe I don't know much but I think the sharper the better. I agree the front edge only contacts the wood for the first inch or so but getting the split started is the hardest part. That's why a sharp axe in the right wood can wear it out. just my two cents worth which may be only worth a penny.:monkey:

 

[jags]

The first log splitter I built (years ago) had a razor sharp edge. The second one I built (wedge from Northern T) was more of a blunt edge. I personally like the blunt edge for one reason. It will follow the grain of the wood instead of trying to cut into it.

When busting up a chunk, the wood typically splits from the force of being "wedged apart" not from being "cut".

Oh, and as a side note, my first splitter was not a big bad powerful one, and I found that the sharp wedge would get stuck more frequently than a blunt one (I knocked the edge off of the old splitter after a few years of use).

Hope this helps, its just a real world comparison of blunt vs. sharp on the exact same splitter.

 

[RAYINTOMBALL]

The first log splitter I built (years ago) had a razor sharp edge. The second one I built (wedge from Northern T) was more of a blunt edge. I personally like the blunt edge for one reason. It will follow the grain of the wood instead of trying to cut into it.

When busting up a chunk, the wood typically splits from the force of being "wedged apart" not from being "cut".

Oh, and as a side note, my first splitter was not a big bad powerful one, and I found that the sharp wedge would get stuck more frequently than a blunt one (I knocked the edge off of the old splitter after a few years of use).

Hope this helps, its just a real world comparison of blunt vs. sharp on the exact same splitter.

Hey Jags makes since to me. Now I'm in a dilemma to build a super sharp wedge or a more blunt one. I need beer.