Splitting 100 cord a year ........with an axe !!!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
"standing on about 100 cords of wood"
"all cut from over 1000 trees"


- no way thats 100 cords of wood
- how tiny are those trees that each one is 1/10th of a cord..? o_O

this guy is BSer - 40 yrs later or not, someone find his info and lets call him out.

You would have to dig him up. Tom is dead now. His son runs the firewood business now. I use to watch his trucks going to St. Louis every morning when I was a kid waiting for the bus. He lived about 30 miles south of me. I buy a lot wood from a guy that use to work for him. He had several guys working for him. From what my buddy told he liked to play with the axe but the wood he sold was split with Super Splitters. He had several SS going at one time. They sold a lot of wood. I might be able to get my hands on one of the axes if somebody really wanted one.

Scott
 
You would have to dig him up. Tom is dead now. His son runs the firewood business now. I use to watch his trucks going to St. Louis every morning when I was a kid waiting for the bus. He lived about 30 miles south of me. I buy a lot wood from a guy that use to work for him. He had several guys working for him. From what my buddy told he liked to play with the axe but the wood he sold was split with Super Splitters. He had several SS going at one time. They sold a lot of wood. I might be able to get my hands on one of the axes if somebody really wanted one.

Scott

--thanks for the good update and background! That's real interesting.

ya know, I was thinking on it some, 100 cords a year isn't all that outrageous with an axe/maul. That's only 1/3rd cord a day, plus 65 days "vacation" time.

It's really quite doable by hand. Not saying he did it, just thinking about, I could do 1/3 a day pretty steady if I wanted to (given good wood of course, not every single piece twisted gnarly). That would be cut/split by hand/stack.

How much do you guys do with your machinery per day, and how many guys? Got to be multiple cords. Divided by manpower, how many cords per man-day can you do?

As to one of the axes, sounds good but I know I wouldn't have the scratch for a collector item like that. Someone here might though. I just looked on ebay, nothing.
 
One of my buddy's favorite lines is, " I'm very well educated, I spent over 8 years in high school" ;)


Looks like that was from the 70's. I don't think he's swinging like he used to. Everything has it's place and it's nice to be in a place where we are still allowed, for now anyway, to choose. I still swing a maul occasionally but when you get to the tough stuff the Hydraulics come in.

I got some wavy grain beech(knot free) that I'll sit back and laugh at anybody try to split with ANY maul, axe. Dang hard to get a wedge started in it without a starter slice with a saw. Just bounces out even with baby taps.

Only done some beech here, and ya it can suck. As soon as the bark loosens she'll bust. Or you can slice the bark off first.

IF you can see the twist, bring your edge in parallel with that angle. That helps a lot.

I know some stuff busts better green, but basically I just stack up rounds and wait for cracks and loose bark. Costs me nothing to wait until that point, and pays by making it loads easier to split. We don't get that wicked frozen solid below zero temps here, so can't do the frozen wood splitting trick.

Up north, sure, did that, down here, nope, let 'er dry a little first. Some stuff it doesn't matter, straight red oak and ash...anytime. Starts easy gets easier for the most part, within reason.

The worst here, worse than beech, are the real large sweetgums. Not so much twisted as they are *stringy* You get a bust, but it sticks together. I wait a long time on them bad boys, but then they will bust, too, then slice a few strings.

I have some, takes me three wait periods to finish busting them up. Bust some off the outside until it sucks..stop then, back on the pile. Wait a few months do it again, that works for most of them. If it gets to the third drying period, they either bust or then I noodle, but really, I noodle very few rounds except when first felled, I'll noodle the crotches then.

I am quite patient and I hate having to bust azz just to bust wood. No need, and I ain't letting no chunk of cellulose and lignin beat me neither. It's easy, or I wait until it gets easy (well, doable), one or the other.

When I went from normal to "good" with hand busting was way back when those huge waves of dutch elm disease hit, and you could get as much of the big stuff as you wanted for free. There was cubic miles of the stuff all over. All you wanted, some huge, plenty just "big". Learned on that stuff, anything else I have found since then is loads easier.

Back then I all hand cut for my own wood, either a large crosscut or bow saw. That was a lot harder than splitting it. If you stayed sharp and didn't push it, it cut OK, but the least bit pushing it, was like sawing freeking rocks.
 
Not impressed......

Honestly, I'm not impressed with his technique and speed. Anyone can split that much wood, but in what kind of time? That's the big question. Another thing I noticed, all the wood was straight grained wood, no knots or kinks, who can't split the hell out of that stuff. Not tooting my own horn, but I could give him a real run for his money! Most times when I'm splitting I can out work one man and a splitter, again depending if it's cherry, oak, or even locust, but you get into the red elm, and some of the more stringy woods and that's when a splitter will just bury me.

Now, there are tricks of the trade and that's the truth. The single biggest thing a good splitter must do is be able to read the log. Each and every log has it's own story on how it will split, the guy splitting it just has to be smart enough to watch and listen. Also, you must keep your tools clean and sharp, there's no substitute for a clean sharp ax, other then a very strong back!!

Craig
 
Honestly, I'm not impressed with his technique and speed. Anyone can split that much wood, but in what kind of time? That's the big question. Another thing I noticed, all the wood was straight grained wood, no knots or kinks, who can't split the hell out of that stuff. Not tooting my own horn, but I could give him a real run for his money! Most times when I'm splitting I can out work one man and a splitter, again depending if it's cherry, oak, or even locust, but you get into the red elm, and some of the more stringy woods and that's when a splitter will just bury me.

Now, there are tricks of the trade and that's the truth. The single biggest thing a good splitter must do is be able to read the log. Each and every log has it's own story on how it will split, the guy splitting it just has to be smart enough to watch and listen. Also, you must keep your tools clean and sharp, there's no substitute for a clean sharp ax, other then a very strong back!!

Craig

Could you elaborate on reading the log to know where it's gonna split the easiest. I mainly use a splitter but started out using a fiskers ss. It worked good for me but I probably just got lucky with my reading the log. I cut oak, poplar, cotton wood, and maple. Any tips would be much appreciated.:msp_smile:
 
Reading the wood; first thing, avoid knots. If there is a knot, flip the log and see if you have a good clean end. If not, try to work your way around the knot, but you'll just bounce the tool off the knot if you hit it directly. Second thing is to look for small splits/cracks in the wood. Even green wood has some small cracks, maybe just from the harvesting process? Anyway, aim for those, since the wood is already starting to split there, you have an advantage. On the bigger rounds, I aim a couple inches in from the bark and try to slab off pieces instead of trying to bust the whole round in half. Sometimes there are "hidden" internal knots which you may be able to tell by healed-over branch wound on the side of the log. You'll want to try the slabbing technique there to try to split your way around the knot.
 
Reading the wood; first thing, avoid knots. If there is a knot, flip the log and see if you have a good clean end. If not, try to work your way around the knot, but you'll just bounce the tool off the knot if you hit it directly. Second thing is to look for small splits/cracks in the wood. Even green wood has some small cracks, maybe just from the harvesting process? Anyway, aim for those, since the wood is already starting to split there, you have an advantage. On the bigger rounds, I aim a couple inches in from the bark and try to slab off pieces instead of trying to bust the whole round in half. Sometimes there are "hidden" internal knots which you may be able to tell by healed-over branch wound on the side of the log. You'll want to try the slabbing technique there to try to split your way around the knot.

Couldn't have said it any better.....he's knows how to read a log!!! Good post!

Craig
 
I watched both the vids. I heard Potosi and almost laughed out loud. I work with a bunch of guys from Monkey Mtn. This guy is Einstein compared to those clowns.
Potosi is in a rural part of the Ozarks and is just outside the Mark Twain Natl. Forest. Its mostly red and white oak timber, so Im sure that's what he's splitting.
 
Boy, it sure is surprising to me to see folks on here downplay and criticize the ammount of hard work and effort this guy put into his craft. I think its great to see a guy doing what he wants and enjoying it. For all you naysayers out there I tell you what, you cut and split 100 cord by hand and I'll drive out to where you are from Idaho, shake your hand and buy a cord to take home with me.
 
Second thing is to look for small splits/cracks in the wood. Even green wood has some small cracks, maybe just from the harvesting process? Anyway, aim for those, since the wood is already starting to split there, you have an advantage.

Good info. I would just add one minor thing to that. Aim along the line of the crack, but not right on ( in ) the crack itself. That part is already "split", so I think it helps a little more to hit wood that hasn't yet cracked. You'll also sometimes get cracks that go to the center and then turn off on another angle, pick one crack and hit inline on the far side ( as long as you're not going into a knot by doing so )
 
Boy, it sure is surprising to me to see folks on here downplay and criticize the ammount of hard work and effort this guy put into his craft. I think its great to see a guy doing what he wants and enjoying it. For all you naysayers out there I tell you what, you cut and split 100 cord by hand and I'll drive out to where you are from Idaho, shake your hand and buy a cord to take home with me.

STLfirewood had this to say about that:

"You would have to dig him up. Tom is dead now. His son runs the firewood business now. I use to watch his trucks going to St. Louis every morning when I was a kid waiting for the bus. He lived about 30 miles south of me. I buy a lot wood from a guy that use to work for him. He had several guys working for him. From what my buddy told he liked to play with the axe but the wood he sold was split with Super Splitters. He had several SS going at one time. They sold a lot of wood. I might be able to get my hands on one of the axes if somebody really wanted one."

Not saying he didn't work hard, but it seems possible reading the above that the figure of 100 cord a year split by hand might have a bit of media myth in it. Maybe he did 100 a year himself but the operation sold more than that.
 
STLfirewood had this to say about that:

"You would have to dig him up. Tom is dead now. His son runs the firewood business now. I use to watch his trucks going to St. Louis every morning when I was a kid waiting for the bus. He lived about 30 miles south of me. I buy a lot wood from a guy that use to work for him. He had several guys working for him. From what my buddy told he liked to play with the axe but the wood he sold was split with Super Splitters. He had several SS going at one time. They sold a lot of wood. I might be able to get my hands on one of the axes if somebody really wanted one."

Not saying he didn't work hard, but it seems possible reading the above that the figure of 100 cord a year split by hand might have a bit of media myth in it. Maybe he did 100 a year himself but the operation sold more than that.

Hopefully STLfirewood will find out more about the guy's earlier practices. It could be he did both, 100 cords a year by hand, then X hundred cords a year with his power splitters and crew. That guy was a blacksmith, his arms had to be rock hard. Like I said earlier up above, that's 1/3rd cord a day, with 65 days off to hit 100. Seems perfectly doable, like a daily exercise session at the gym. Especially if he was doing nice straight grained oak, that stuff is relatively easy to split.
 
Hopefully STLfirewood will find out more about the guy's earlier practices. It could be he did both, 100 cords a year by hand, then X hundred cords a year with his power splitters and crew.

Especially after the show made him a supastar! Used his new dough for new equipment mebbe

That guy was a blacksmith, his arms had to be rock hard. Like I said earlier up above, that's 1/3rd cord a day, with 65 days off to hit 100. Seems perfectly doable, like a daily exercise session at the gym. Especially if he was doing nice straight grained oak, that stuff is relatively easy to split.

I'd love to have access to 100 cords. Not sure I'd have space to store it all, but I'd split it.
 
I used to split my firewood in the same way as in the previous videos but because I got my wrists soar, I invented the Leveraxe.
With the Leveraxe you must hold the handle as gently as possible in your hands to allow the ROTATION. You will not get any chocks to your hands or body. The friction is nearly non existent and the initial splitting force is even 30 times stronger than in the conventional axes and mauls.
You do not have to use power so much than with the conventional axes or mauls.
The Leveraxe has been on the market over 6 years. There has happened NO ACCIDENT.
Here are a couple of videos.

Vipukirves - speedtest - YouTube

Vipukirves slow-motion video, part 3 - YouTube
 
I used to split my firewood in the same way as in the previous videos but because I got my wrists soar, I invented the Leveraxe.
With the Leveraxe you must hold the handle as gently as possible in your hands to allow the ROTATION. You will not get any chocks to your hands or body. The friction is nearly non existent and the initial splitting force is even 30 times stronger than in the conventional axes and mauls.
You do not have to use power so much than with the conventional axes or mauls.
The Leveraxe has been on the market over 6 years. There has happened NO ACCIDENT.
Here are a couple of videos.

Vipukirves - speedtest - YouTube

Vipukirves slow-motion video, part 3 - YouTube

License that design man, maybe to fiskars. They look cool but too expensive for the USA market. They need mass quantities economies of scale prices and an existing dealership network. If you want to really crack the USA market. You'll need to get that price at least cut in half to sell many over here, either in shops or like off of Amazon.
 
Good info. I would just add one minor thing to that. Aim along the line of the crack, but not right on ( in ) the crack itself. That part is already "split", so I think it helps a little more to hit wood that hasn't yet cracked. You'll also sometimes get cracks that go to the center and then turn off on another angle, pick one crack and hit inline on the far side ( as long as you're not going into a knot by doing so )

On the natural cracks work the close and far side of the log. One side will normally split easier than the other, stick with the easier side and finish in the hard side. Sometimes it seems that splittin the ground side up will make things easier but it depends on the log/tree
 

Latest posts

Back
Top