Splitting axe

[user 178840]

I just bought some wood, and now I need an axe to split it.



I'm burning 20" pieces of wood, and if my calculations are correct that wood in the photo will be about 1.5 cords when it's all split and stacked.

What axe would you recommend I get? I'm not a very big guy, 150 lbs, 5'9". I've looked at the Fiskars x25 and x27, the Husqvarna S2800, the Gränsfors Bruk Large splitting axe, their splitting maul and the Small splitting axe. Where I live, the price of them all is close enough to not be a major factor in the decision. So I'm just looking at the best tool for the job.

So, what do you suggest I buy? Thanks!

//Tobbe

 

[SimonHS]

Just buy them all and write a review after trying them out!

Seriously though, I would tend towards the Gransfors maul paired with the small splitting axe. Very high quality. The maul will split the big logs and the axe will split the smaller ones. With good technique you will be able to swing the maul without a problem.

PS. Welcome to AS!

 

[Ronaldo]

I've used the S2800, X25 and X27. I prefer the Fiskars.

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[old guy]

You will get tired of splitting 20'' wood with an axe very quickly.

 

[user 178840]

Just buy them all and write a review after trying them out!

Seriously though, I would tend towards the Gransfors maul paired with the small splitting axe. Very high quality. The maul will split the big logs and the axe will split the smaller ones. With good technique you will be able to swing the maul without a problem.

PS. Welcome to AS!

Thanks for the welcome

Haha! Yeah, buying all of them is one way to do it if you can't decide

I've used the S2800, X25 and X27. I prefer the Fiskars.

For a guy my size, would you recommend the x25 or x27? Most people seem to really like the x27 but I'm worried it's too big for me.

You will get tired of splitting 20'' wood with an axe very quickly.

Thanks a lot for bringing this up. Are 20" pieces just too long to get a good crack in with an axe? What's the longest you can do with an axe?
What's everyone else's thoughts on this?

 

[babybart]

@svk

 

[Ronaldo]

I am about the same height as you. I actually prefer the length of the X25 and find that I use it far more than the X27.

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[user 178840]

I am about the same height as you. I actually prefer the length of the X25 and find that I use it far more than the X27.

Nice! How long pieces of wood do you split with it? Do you do 20" pieces?

 

[Mustang71]

I'm 5'6" and have the x27. Keep the sharp part away from my feet. Its the best splitting axe I've ever used. I still use it a ton even after I bought a splitter. I keep it sharp and split on a wood block.

 

[Jere39]

I split about 16 cord per year with the Fiskars x27. I tried an x25, and it was too short for me - I'm 5'10", but maybe 30% heavier and in my case not all lean muscle. I split 18" pieces of oak. There are plenty of variables in the process of splitting wood, not the least of which is the type wood, and the lay of the grain. If you can find a store that carries both size Fiskars you might get a sense by just handling on. For the price, I'd put a Fiskars in my arsenal and let it work. If you find you want to do this work year after year, and then shine your splitter and hang it over the mantle while you are burning, then invest in the Gränsfors Bruk. But recognize, this is just one guy's opinion, and not a measured and relatable guide for anyone else.

 

[LondonNeil]

dependson the wood, straight grained, knot free and an easy splitting species, 20" ok....knotty, twisted etc...8" is tough

 

[svk]

The S2800 is the most powerful splitting tool amongst the three you mentioned. At 5’11” the X25 is the best/most natural feeling tool of the three.

 

[cookies]

a 35 dollar hardware store maul will get it done just as well as the 80 dollar fiskers or 200+ dollar granfors, the difference is how it feels in your hand hitting the log (resonation) with the more expensive versions really shining when your hitting hard knotty wood that must be struck over and over. They will stick into the wood so a sledge hammer may be used to drive them where as a common maul typically bounces off. Honestly a maul will wear you out quickly until you gain endurance from using it, often I reach for a heavier axe or even a chainsaw instead of a maul. My suggestion is to start with a cheaper maul and heavy axe to see how you like swinging them before you spend big. Look into the fiskers maul and axe as purchased together should cost under 200 and are a decently made tool. If you decide you enjoy splitting by hand then start shopping for a hand forged maul and if not grab a gas powered splitter. jut my .02$.

 

[svk]

a 35 dollar hardware store maul will get it done just as well as the 80 dollar fiskers or 200+ dollar granfors, the difference is how it feels in your hand hitting the log (resonation) with the more expensive versions really shining when your hitting hard knotty wood that must be struck over and over. They will stick into the wood so a sledge hammer may be used to drive them where as a common maul typically bounces off. Honestly a maul will wear you out quickly until you gain endurance from using it, often I reach for a heavier axe or even a chainsaw instead of a maul. My suggestion is to start with a cheaper maul and heavy axe to see how you like swinging them before you spend big. Look into the fiskers maul and axe as purchased together should cost under 200 and are a decently made tool. If you decide you enjoy splitting by hand then start shopping for a hand forged maul and if not grab a gas powered splitter. jut my .02$.

Respectfully disagree.

Very few tools split wood as well as a Fiskars, S series Husqvarna, or expensive German maul.

*Most* cheap/box store mails have a very poorly profiled head and the axes are often poorly sharpened as well. Trying to use one on anything but straight grained wood is simply torturing yourself.

Also, the user needs to be aware that not all axes/mauls can be pounded through a round.

 

[North by Northwest]

The proper axe handle length is the most important factor , not only for comfort but to prevent over strikes and handle damage . A good quality ash or maple or even hickory handle will last you 30th + years . A proper splitting axe with a obtuse grind & proper weight will split most 16" - 18 " hardwood easily . Splitting mauls are normally used in longer rounds or gnarly larger rounds . I have made my own mauls from sledge hammer heads . Some nasty rounds require steel wedge and sledge hammer to split on occasion . In short I would recommend visiting your local stores and get the feel of various offerings then you can order a quality axe or maul to fit . Normally 28 " to 32" handle sizes are the norm however taller or shorter individuals may prefer a 24 " , 26 " 28 " or 34 " or even 36 " handle . Some people prefer a fibreglass handle that are not effected my humidity or moisture . P.S. another benefit is to not have an overly sharp or acute grind on your splitting tools , to prevent an overly sticky head . Once you get some feel for your axe you can learn the wrist flick which helps to prevent the annoying sticking . Good luck with your purchase . I personally prefer Garant axes with either Michigan 3.5 lb head or Canadian 4.5 lb head , with a 32 inch hickory or ash handle . The fiskar also have some nice mauls check them out at any local hardware e.g. Lowes stores

 

[cookies]

I have never seen a maul that can not be struck on the back of the head, where did I imply you can or should strike the back of a axe head? A common maul and a fiskers both rely on the impact and wedge shape neither, have the best shape, edge or steel the only real difference is the handle on the fiskers acts like a rubber band giving more force into the wood and cushions the hand...both are cheap hardware store axes compared to a ochsenkopf or bruks.

 

[user 178840]

the 80 dollar fiskers or 200+ dollar granfors,

These are the prices where I live
Fiskars x27: $90
Fiskars x25: $90
Husky S2800: $95
Gränsfors Large Splitting Axe: $170
Gardena 2800S (same as the husky, just diff color): $80

 

[svk]

I have never seen a maul that can not be struck on the back of the head, where did I imply you can or should strike the back of a axe head? A common maul and a fiskers both rely on the impact and wedge shape neither, have the best shape, edge or steel the only real difference is the handle on the fiskers acts like a rubber band giving more force into the wood and cushions the hand...both are cheap hardware store axes compared to a ochsenkopf or bruks.

Again going to disagree. The fiskars head shape is the best shape for splitting. That’s why it’s effective despite being light.

The expensive splitting tools have almost the same head shape. IOW, Fiskars copied them so they could market a cheap yet durable tool.

 

[user 178840]

There are plenty of variables in the process of splitting wood, not the least of which is the type wood, and the lay of the grain.

I'll mostly be splitting birch and spruce. How knotty and twisty it is will vary

 

[North by Northwest]

Again going to disagree. The fiskars head shape is the best shape for splitting. That’s why it’s effective despite being light.

The expensive splitting tools have almost the same head shape. IOW, Fiskars copied them so they could market a cheap yet durable tool.

Can't t beat fiskars for a cheap but quality splitting axe or maul for the $$ .