We know that Srt is a much more efficient way to ascend. But being 200lbs +gear, and knowing how vulnerable a single line is under tension, I would rather work in a Ddrt system. My question, is it worth investing in a rope wrench or something similar if only using Srt for initial ascent? I have only climbed single rope in the caveman fashion(hitch climber/ct foot/Kong Futura hand with webbing strap for opposite foot loop). None of the climbers I know are using "new" technology, so this forum is my only way to gain insight. I appreciate any advice I can get..
SRT help
- Thread starter Philthy
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Even 200lbs under tension is not going to break your line unless you decide to cut it yourself. I don't think too many of the knuckle draggers here myself included climb SRT. The Buzz has a whole lot more on it.
I didn't mean that my weight would cause the rope to fail, I apologize if that was confusing. I've seen what light contact from a zubat can do to tachyon in Ddrt, and I'm sure I don't want to work off a single line. I'll have to do a search for the buzz, I didn't realize there were other forums like this one. Thanks for your help
Its ********.
If you cut either leg ddrt you're still going to fall.For a larger climber I think the RADS system with it's mechanical advantage works well. If I'm doing a lot of limbwalking I'll switch over to ddrt. Just remember to T.I.T.S. with either method.
RajElectric
ArboristSite Operative
Progress at your own rate but in the end, you'll probably switch over to working off the SRT line. A full 1/2 inch line gives a lot of comfort.
To add, limb walking is easier SRT than DRT if you just leave the RADS hooked up. (minus the foot ascender) I run the RADS system and I love it. I run it with a grigri 2 or D4. One of the added safety factors of base tied srt is that should your tie in fail, you'll likely catch another. Don't make any cuts without another tie in. It's my opinion that srt is much better. I feel like i can reach more spots in the trees because of it. We do trims on small maples a lot. I call small 40' and under and 16" dbh roughly. I haven't needed a pole saw in the tree in some time. With drt, you'll be using one a lot.
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
SRT will make you use your legs more which is better for your upper joints. With the exception of crane work I climb solely SRT. It takes a while to get the hang of it and develop your own style and way about it. As well as your muscles to acclimate. You will be investing a bit more for gear.
Peter White
PAW
Rope wrench is very nice. Haven't tried others, but it unloads your hitch knot so you can descend and move about the tree much more easily. The new model can be picked up for about $100 and it makes SRT much easier. Can always switch to double line when you get up there if you prefer. If only using it for ascent, the benefit of any such devices become questionable. Once you try it out, though, you might decide to use it when you are working in the tree, which is where the benefits will be realized.
With a foot assender and a knee assender there is never any slack in the line. In my opinion a Haas or SAKA are the way to go.
Pop in a 3 to 1 for return from limb walks
I am talking about working the tree, not ascending. Yes, the 3 to 1.
LostMontanan
ArboristSite Lurker
IMO its a better system for %75 of the time you are in a tree. More efficient, faster, and safer. The stand alone fact that you can set up your system to be lowered from the ground should an injury occur makes it Gold. There are good articles on Tree Buzz, as well as youtube videos to give you an idea of what to start with. Try it out on the weekend a couple times first so you arent under pressure to learn a new system in a production setting, and most importantly always double check everything.
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Under tention a single rope only needs to be nicked with your handsaw and it'll snap like a rubber band. But like others said always tie in twice. If your use to climbing double rope. You won't like SRT at first. Give it a chance. I've seen guys try it once then say screw this and never use it again. Give it a chance. So many cool things you can do with that technec. Get a big shot and perfect its use to.
Peter White
PAW
Have to agree with the big shot recommendation. Don't know how people climb without one. And SRT gives you a little leeway in setting the rope in not having to isolate a single limb. And it's easier on the ropes, too.
One key point to remember with SRT and a base tie off is you will load the limb with twice as much weight than using DRT. If you use SRT with a high TIP, then the limb will see the same amount of force as DRT. If you're new to SRT and using a base tie off, let' say you and your gear weigh 200#, then both ends of the rope (the end you're hanging from and the other end tied off to the tree's base) are both tensioned to 200# ... which means you're imparting 400# on the limb. If you tie off to the limb (high TIP), then you impart only 200# on it. Of course, a high TIP means you must climb to that TIP in order to switch over to SRT. If I can find the video which shows how easy that can be, I'll post a link to it.
I usually use a base tie off and the RADS climbing method, but that's if my path of ascension is close to the trunk where I can balance off it with my feet. In those cases, I almost always use a base tie off. If I must make an ascent where I'm 4 or more feet away from the trunk, then I use a rope-runner and climb straight up the rope. One can argue the point of using DRT since you usually have to isolate a limb anyway for a high TIP, but it's so much more efficient to ascend SRT. With your rope doubled over the limb in DRT, you will climb 60' of rope to gain only 30' in altitude.
The early part of this video illustrates an easy method for switching over from SRT to DRT. You should also realize that the switch over can be performed far below the TIP if you plan ahead for it.
I usually use a base tie off and the RADS climbing method, but that's if my path of ascension is close to the trunk where I can balance off it with my feet. In those cases, I almost always use a base tie off. If I must make an ascent where I'm 4 or more feet away from the trunk, then I use a rope-runner and climb straight up the rope. One can argue the point of using DRT since you usually have to isolate a limb anyway for a high TIP, but it's so much more efficient to ascend SRT. With your rope doubled over the limb in DRT, you will climb 60' of rope to gain only 30' in altitude.
The early part of this video illustrates an easy method for switching over from SRT to DRT. You should also realize that the switch over can be performed far below the TIP if you plan ahead for it.
Keep in mind passing through two or more crutches negates the weight penalty.
Here is something i think gets overlooked with regards to SRT crotch loading. One leg of your SRT rope is similar to a negatively rigged crotch. Whereas it generates a downward, compression, force. It also counters a percentage of the horizontal load applied from the working side. On base tied SRT i feel the tie in point is more stable and less bouncy. Also, when you change directions the tie in point is less affected.
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