SS Liner Question

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kstill361

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I have a rigid SS liner that was put together with sheetmetal screws. I am going to replace the roof next year and I have to have the top exposed brick chimney replaced because its in bad shape. Well after all this is done I plan on insulating the liner with the vermiculite/portland mix.

So, My question is, should I pull the liner and replace the standard screws with stainless rivets/screws before insulating or do you think its anything to worry about?
 
Guessing that the electrolytic deterioration would affect more the screws than the SS & that the added mix will be rigid after it cures, I wouldnt worry about it.
 
I have a rigid SS liner that was put together with sheetmetal screws. I am going to replace the roof next year and I have to have the top exposed brick chimney replaced because its in bad shape. Well after all this is done I plan on insulating the liner with the vermiculite/portland mix.

So, My question is, should I pull the liner and replace the standard screws with stainless rivets/screws before insulating or do you think its anything to worry about?

If it's easy I would. The reason to use rivets as you may well know is screws loosen over time due to thermal cycling.
 
If it's easy I would. The reason to use rivets as you may well know is screws loosen over time due to thermal cycling.
& thats why the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe bolts on a car get easier to remove as the years pass=NOT!
 
& thats why the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe bolts on a car get easier to remove as the years pass=NOT!

Cylinder heads aren't stovepipe, exhaust manifold bolts aren't rivets and the threads of an exhaust manifold bolt are not exposed to the temperatures in a stove flue.

There is a reason for different types of fasteners whether you are cognizant of that fact or not.

Basically, you pop off like you know something and have no clue how ignorant you are. A fool really doesn't know he's a fool though so don't be offended.

You are unteachable and you got an anti-rep today.




However, since this is important and I fully realize there are people here that wish to learn, I will explain for them.

Inside a flue pipe, a horizontal cut of the cross section of flue pipe will reveal the temperature is not uniform in the pipe. The exhaust temperature is cooler at the outer edges of the pipe. This is what is known as a boundary layer. The boundary layer is dependent on surface finish of the pipe, but can be quite thin. It is a layer of turbulence which does not move as rapidly as the center portion of the pipe simply due to the friction between the flow and the wall of the pipe.

Putting a pipe together with sheet metal screws can cause the screw to penetrate the boundary layer and be exposed to gases much hotter than the wall of the pipe. Since the screw is metal and metal is a good heat conductor and the sheet metal screw has limited contact with the pipe, the sheet metal screw expands at a rate higher than the pipe because it does not have the surface area to conduct heat into the stove pipe.

The hot and expanding screw either 1) enlarges the hole in the pipe or 2) deforms the screw. Either way, when the pipe and screw cool down the sheet metal screw will no longer be tight in the hole. Repeated thermal cycling will compromise the screws ability to fasten the stove pipe together.

Rivets otoh may not stay tight, but will not compromise the stove pipe connection.
 
Basically, you pop off like you know something and have no clue how ignorant you are. A fool really doesn't know he's a fool though so don't be offended.

You are unteachable and you got an anti-rep today.

NICE, couldn't have said it better!
Cheers. :cheers:
Paul
 
Cylinder heads aren't stovepipe, exhaust manifold bolts aren't rivets and the threads of an exhaust manifold bolt are not exposed to the temperatures in a stove flue.

There is a reason for different types of fasteners whether you are cognizant of that fact or not.

Basically, you pop off like you know something and have no clue how ignorant you are. A fool really doesn't know he's a fool though so don't be offended.

You are unteachable and you got an anti-rep today.




However, since this is important and I fully realize there are people here that wish to learn, I will explain for them.

Inside a flue pipe, a horizontal cut of the cross section of flue pipe will reveal the temperature is not uniform in the pipe. The exhaust temperature is cooler at the outer edges of the pipe. This is what is known as a boundary layer. The boundary layer is dependent on surface finish of the pipe, but can be quite thin. It is a layer of turbulence which does not move as rapidly as the center portion of the pipe simply due to the friction between the flow and the wall of the pipe.

Putting a pipe together with sheet metal screws can cause the screw to penetrate the boundary layer and be exposed to gases much hotter than the wall of the pipe. Since the screw is metal and metal is a good heat conductor and the sheet metal screw has limited contact with the pipe, the sheet metal screw expands at a rate higher than the pipe because it does not have the surface area to conduct heat into the stove pipe.

The hot and expanding screw either 1) enlarges the hole in the pipe or 2) deforms the screw. Either way, when the pipe and screw cool down the sheet metal screw will no longer be tight in the hole. Repeated thermal cycling will compromise the screws ability to fasten the stove pipe together.

Rivets otoh may not stay tight, but will not compromise the stove pipe connection.
assuming the screws have come loose, i hope the pipe dont come apart when pulling it out.
The screw protruding into the hot zone absorbs the heat into the screw but when it contacts the pipe, the pipe acts as a heat sink & cools off the screw as the heat conducts into the pipe. As to deforming the screw @ what temps?, I gotta think rust will be the only factor
 
Cylinder heads aren't stovepipe, exhaust manifold bolts aren't rivets and the threads of an exhaust manifold bolt are not exposed to the temperatures in a stove flue.

There is a reason for different types of fasteners whether you are cognizant of that fact or not.

Basically, you pop off like you know something and have no clue how ignorant you are. A fool really doesn't know he's a fool though so don't be offended.

You are unteachable and you got an anti-rep today.




However, since this is important and I fully realize there are people here that wish to learn, I will explain for them.

Inside a flue pipe, a horizontal cut of the cross section of flue pipe will reveal the temperature is not uniform in the pipe. The exhaust temperature is cooler at the outer edges of the pipe. This is what is known as a boundary layer. The boundary layer is dependent on surface finish of the pipe, but can be quite thin. It is a layer of turbulence which does not move as rapidly as the center portion of the pipe simply due to the friction between the flow and the wall of the pipe.

Putting a pipe together with sheet metal screws can cause the screw to penetrate the boundary layer and be exposed to gases much hotter than the wall of the pipe. Since the screw is metal and metal is a good heat conductor and the sheet metal screw has limited contact with the pipe, the sheet metal screw expands at a rate higher than the pipe because it does not have the surface area to conduct heat into the stove pipe.

The hot and expanding screw either 1) enlarges the hole in the pipe or 2) deforms the screw. Either way, when the pipe and screw cool down the sheet metal screw will no longer be tight in the hole. Repeated thermal cycling will compromise the screws ability to fasten the stove pipe together.

Rivets otoh may not stay tight, but will not compromise the stove pipe connection.

I don't what school you greaduated from, but down in my basement things don't work that way. :deadhorse:
 
I don't what school you greaduated from, but down in my basement things don't work that way. :deadhorse:

Let me guess, since it hasn't happened to you it must not be true?

Perhaps a little reading?
http://stovepipesource.com/

Read under 'Difference Between Liners - Rigid vs Flex'

Take special note where it is written:
The rigid liner pipes will come in seperate sections that join together using different crimps, pop rivets, and stainless steel screws to help secure the joints. Many times screws can work themselves loose, which is why pop rivets come highly recommended. These screws can become loose during the expansion and contraction of the liner due to heat.

:deadhorse:

I think that's what I already wrote? ;)
What can I say, when I went to school I learned to read. :laugh: I graduated too. And learned how to spell.
 
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