Starting another new chainsaw project

[Amp4027]

so if they recommend 50:1 and built the chainsaw both design & tested, then I want the same engineering results, or at least close to it.

I agree, which is why I mix it 45:1 or 0.9gal to the Stihl High-Performance 2.7oz orange container. I'd stray away from the Ultra Synthetic "biodegradable in 3 weeks" silver bottle - there is hearsay it is simply virgin mineral/canola oil and 1% proprietary additives.

I have a hard time making shaking the tank a habit, but its getting better. And I agree, a quality tool with a bit of preventative maintenance (read: borderline OCD, lol!) will last a lifetime.
A few more tips:
A broke hacksaw blade makes a great bar groove scraper.
Synthetic Brake Caliper grease (~$12 for a bottle with brushcap, the blue stuff from orielly's) works great for mating surfaces on airhousing and the rim of the airfilter and gaskets. Another thing to watch out for is the sponge that seals the hole in the center of the air filter tends to flatten out(or the coverscrew squishes it), and then dirt and sawdust can easily slip by and right into the saw. I found a piece of gasket paper under it keeps it well sealed against the filter&cover screw.
Non-Chlorinated brakeparts cleaner on a paper towel ran where the clutch shoes contact the sprocket drum makes a much better running saw. I used to spritz it in there, but I found it will wash away the grease on the drum needle bearing, or blast crud into it and cause it to seize and/or flatspots.
Always clean the bar & sidecover's mating surfaces(some recommend sanding off all the paint off the rear portion of the bar because it tends to cake onto the sidecover and opposite side and lead to an improper seal & leaky saw), and don't loosen the sidenut more than a quarter turn when adjusting chain tension. Else you will just be dripping oil down the side of the bar instead of getting it into the oilhole&bar groove - maybe the pump problem that sorted itself out?

 

[Karla]

Thanks again for all the tidbits of suggestions and help.
I use a product called "Purple Power", available at Dollar Stores, and most big box stores for cleaning all my engine and chainsaw parts including housing and casing parts. I use a 1:1 solution with cold water and buy it by the gallon fairly reasonable, I have never had a problem with it removing paint unless the paint is already flaking loose. It definitely removes all the grease, oil, gasoline, and sawdust after about a 15 minute soak. It does remove oil from your skin and hands, so I definitely recommend wearing gloves and not putting your hands into the solution. I also recommend rinsing all the parts in clear clean water after cleaning with the solution, then let the parts dry in the sun, or if you are in a hurry then you can dry the parts with a towel, or use an air compressor to blow dry the parts, anyhow they look like brand new including clutch parts, and oil pumps, etc. etc. with a minimum of scrubbing or scraping (which I never scrape any parts) sometimes a soft brush (ie toothbrush or larger nylon bristle brush) for real caked on stuff. So Just my two cents, and the cleaner is environmentally friendly too.

 

[Karla]

Amp4027,
Today, I did a quick check again of my completed Husqvarna 545, and also did a quick video of it running. I did the right, left, up, & down positioning and No change in the engine sound and No change in the carburation, so it really sounds great. The Audio in my little "Flip Video" is not the greatest but the pictures come out OK, It was a freebie video camera, when you buy a New set of car tires from Continental tires, Lol. If I ever got serious about real video's, I think I would have to get a better camera. LOl. I have attached the video, I hope it copies OK. I need more Video editing Knowledge, I can't seem to get a 1 minute full length video, It either says file has wrong extension or file is too large, anyhow this is the best I could do.

 

[Karla]

I think I have kind of figured out the video thing, however so much learning, Lol

 

[Karla]

Oh, Happy Thanksgiving too all. I am in the middle of cooking my turkey, and plan to have dinner around 5:30 pm EST. Anyhow my aftermarket de-compression valves arrived yesterday, I bought 10 of them for $20.61, I think the brand is "Framall" or soething like that, the package is out in the shop. I installed it yesterday and ran this Husqvarna Model 545 rebuild again, and it started in two pulls, I like the concept of the De-compression valve, so I decided Not to just plug it. It really is much easier to pull start, and much easier on the pull starter too. Oh, the new de-compression valves look exactly the same as the OEM, however the new ones seem to have more of a snap close, I may need to dissassemble one of these new ones and see If they added a spring inside to assist and maintain the close position, they are definitely different than the OEM ones, I like the way they are made too, the small port hole on the side of the decompression valve is in a slightly different place and you can see very easily if there is any carbon starting to plug the valve. The OEM one, the small port hole is hardly visible and is inbetween the crimp on fitting, and the threaded fitting, so its sort of recessed on the side of the decompression valve. Anyhow we will see how it runs, and I will definitely be doublechecking that the de-compression valve is closing after a couple of pulls and while its idling before I go cutting wood with a WOT. Lol. Bye again and have a great Holiday too all.