Sthil 075AV muffler and milling

[Rusty 125]

Hi all, I've recently bought a 075av that I'm intending on using for milling in my own wood for a project / hobby, I've never done any milling before so any help on setting the saw up for this would be helpful, I've stripped and cleaned the saw as far as replacing piston rings and a carb kit and all seams to be running ok apart from it needs a new muffler this has been cut open and messed with. The spare parts list shows two different types with part numbers 1111 140 0614 and 1111 140 0610 the second having some kind of screen bolted to it any help on which one I need would be greatfull thanks

 

[Cease232]

0610 is a fire safe muffler. It's much thicker than 0614 so It depends on what muffler cover you have if any. If you look at the IPL it lists several muffler covers that need to match the muffler.


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[BlueRider]

The screen is a spark arrester and you really should have one since you will be shooting the exhaust from the saw into a pile of sawdust. the other muffler without a screen is for the TS 760 which is the same powerhead but set up with a diamond wheel for cutting concrete.

I use the same saw for milling and its a beast that will handle a 42" bar. You should also replace the fuel filter which is on the end of the fuel line inside the fuel tank. Both air filters sold for that saw work fine but for that past few years I've come to prefer the yellow ones only because they are easier to clean out in the field. I bring along a can of brake cleaner and just give the filter a quick couple of squirts and set it in the sun while I touch up the chain or gill up and get a drink of water. It is nice to carry a spare though

I run Stihl HP Ultra at 50:1

 

[Rusty 125]

Thanks for the reply that's good advice, what is a good chain and bar combination for milling or is that down to to type of tree been milled

 

[rarefish383]

Rusty, I'm using a 660 with 36" bar. I use standard Stihl chain, so I can cut firewood also. I have found that if the saw is sharp and you can keep moving, you can get pretty smooth cuts. If you have to stop, or you are sea-sawing back and forth , you will get rough cuts. If you look at pics and you can see the outline of the bar in the wood, pointing forward and back, that's operator error, more than chain selection. I'd try out of the box chain first, then if your not happy, try the ripping chain, Joe.

 

[rarefish383]

Should have mentioned, try to get both ends of the log off the ground, one end higher. If you are on your knees you can't keep a steady, smooth forward motion. Lots of ways to pick a log up. Sometimes I use a Hi-Lift bumper jack, or throw a big rope over a limb and pull it up with the truck. I have an engine crane and it works well, except it's hard to move around on grass, or dirt, Joe.

 

[Rusty 125]

Good points thanks, the new muffler arrived today so I'm planning on doing a little sawing tomorrow for fire wood just to see how the saw runs, and if all ok then a mill is next on the list

 

[chuckwood]

Should have mentioned, try to get both ends of the log off the ground, one end higher. If you are on your knees you can't keep a steady, smooth forward motion. Lots of ways to pick a log up. Sometimes I use a Hi-Lift bumper jack, or throw a big rope over a limb and pull it up with the truck. I have an engine crane and it works well, except it's hard to move around on grass, or dirt, Joe.

I raise my logs by bolting a special piece of angle iron onto the end of the log, with the angle iron sticking out past the sides of the log. Then I use a couple of 20 ton bottle jacks applied to the ends of the angle iron to push the log up. When it's as high as I can get it I place a piece of notched 12x12 under the log. If I wish to go higher I place big wooden blocks under the jacks and pump it up more if I wish. The big 3/4 inch diameter lag screws that hold the angle iron on go in and out pretty fast using a giant size drill with a socket in the chuck. Usually I drill pilot holes first for the lag screws. I've got a little 5 horse portable generator to power the big drill. Works well for me when I'm out in the woods in places only accessible via a small tractor or a 4 wheeler.

 

[rarefish383]

I like the bottle jack idea, gonna add that to my stuff, Joe.

 

[BobL]

I raise my logs by bolting a special piece of angle iron onto the end of the log, with the angle iron sticking out past the sides of the log. Then I use a couple of 20 ton bottle jacks applied to the ends of the angle iron to push the log up.

One thing to watch out for is the higher the log tit angle the more likely it is for the jacks to slip out from under the ends of the angle iron.
Some over size steel rings welded to the underside of the angle for the end of the jack to sit in would make things a bit safer.
Fixing the the base of the jack to something would be even better as jacks working on an angle can be very risky.
I have seen an angled bottle jack spat out like a watermelon pip - 20+lb of steel heading your way is not nice, not to mention what the log will do

The same problems happen with HiLift jacks which is why I added this nose with the 1" square lug on the lift end of the jack.
The black and blue gizmo is the log grapple which is fastened to the end of the log


The Lug sits inside the black SHS past of log grapple and this is loose fitting enough to turn with increasing angle


In action

 

[chuckwood]

One thing to watch out for is the higher the log tit angle the more likely it is for the jacks to slip out from under the ends of the angle iron.
Some over size steel rings welded to the underside of the angle for the end of the jack to sit in would make things a bit safer.

I love your jack setup. I may get a bumper jack and build something like it when I get time. Your rig doubtless works a lot faster than the setup I'm using with the angle iron, and doesn't require dragging a generator and a big torquey drill around. I welded up my angle iron on the ends with something similar to using oversize steel rings to prevent anything slipping. The business ends of my bottle jacks are inserted into steel "boxes" on the ends of the angle iron that prevent anything from slipping while I'm jacking up the log. My setup uses thick and heavy steel and I've lifted very big logs with it.