Stihl 011 AVT... Haunted

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Sam R

Sam R

8mm Socket
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Hi all,

I've got an old 011 in the shop now that's kind of got me stumped. Wasn't running when it came in - after checking it over (save for p/v test because the 011) and I can't get it started. Fuel lines are good, carb seems okay but I've even swapped it out w/ a new one. Changed intake gaskets. Kind of going fast here; new fuel filter & spark plug. Cleaned the air filter. Tank has no leak & I replaced the tank vent grub screws & hose.

I can get it to start on choke but it runs down pretty quickly like it's out of gas. This is with either the existing or the new carb. With or without choke. One other thing I noticed is that putting the p/v tester to the impulse line and rotating the crank was producing now needle ticks. But I took that plastic flange off, cleaned & inspected it I believe it's in order. Although symptoms to somewhat sync up w/ poor impulse.

My suspicion at this point is the seals may be bad having ruled out the entire fuel system. Is there some special way to check the p/v on an 011 - the shop manual mentions a couple special flanges that I don't have. I had an 011 years ago that had the same issue and I never could get it sealed up good to test the seals.

Thanks for reading
 
Sam R said:
Hi all,

I've got an old 011 in the shop now that's kind of got me stumped. Wasn't running when it came in - after checking it over (save for p/v test because the 011) and I can't get it started. Fuel lines are good, carb seems okay but I've even swapped it out w/ a new one. Changed intake gaskets. Kind of going fast here; new fuel filter & spark plug. Cleaned the air filter. Tank has no leak & I replaced the tank vent grub screws & hose.

I can get it to start on choke but it runs down pretty quickly like it's out of gas. This is with either the existing or the new carb. With or without choke. One other thing I noticed is that putting the p/v tester to the impulse line and rotating the crank was producing now needle ticks. But I took that plastic flange off, cleaned & inspected it I believe it's in order. Although symptoms to somewhat sync up w/ poor impulse.

My suspicion at this point is the seals may be bad having ruled out the entire fuel system. Is there some special way to check the p/v on an 011 - the shop manual mentions a couple special flanges that I don't have. I had an 011 years ago that had the same issue and I never could get it sealed up good to test the seals.

Thanks for reading
Click to expand...

I simply use a tire tube cut to fit the intake and exhaust . If you pressure test from the sparkplug hole plug the impulse line. What is compression? Leaking seals seem to affect idling issues and carb adjustments more than starting issues. Testing impulse , you want it to hold. When turning the crank, impulse will drop but should pop back to your original number and hold.
 
I’ve worked on a couple where the reed block was warped and not making a good seal with the case. The leak could be identified with a pressure test.
 
Certainly will require a pressure / vac test...a major air leak somewhere will make it very difficult to start even if you were to feed it fuel through the intake. Blocking the intake and exhaust are simple - make sure the piston is at BDC and install the plug adapter to pressurize the case.
 
If u check using the impulse line the piston should be at btc.
JohnnyBoy1986 said:
Certainly will require a pressure / vac test...a major air leak somewhere will make it very difficult to start even if you were to feed it fuel through the intake. Blocking the intake and exhaust are simple - make sure the piston is at BDC and install the plug adapter to pressurize the case.
Click to expand...

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Hey all thanks for.replies... Checking impulse same way I always do: put the p/v tester over the inpulse line and pull the engine over usually w plug removed to not have to fight compression.
I agree pv test needed just haven't been able to set up a reliable one yet with the weird shaped flange.
 
Sam R said:
Hey all thanks for.replies... Checking impulse same way I always do: put the p/v tester over the inpulse line and pull the engine over usually w plug removed to not have to fight compression.
I agree pv test needed just haven't been able to set up a reliable one yet with the weird shaped flange.
Click to expand...
Somethings wrong. How can u get vacuum if plug its out.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
No I know where the impulse is. It works with or without plug installed on most saws. I guess the 011 is not most saws...

I did manage to get a p/v test set up. Leaked a bit out of the reed flange but so slow as to be a pass. Called help line for some advice and was told to soak the gasket in fuel to make it swell a bit and make a tighter seal.



That being said I solved the running down issue. Turns out I was exactly right, There's a little shoulder inside the fuel tank and the filter had kind of wedged itself up there out of the approx. Half full tank.
Knocked it down and it just took a little carb adjustment and it runs like a dream!

Sorry to bury the lede there, what a silly fix. But now the customer has a good sharp well running saw!
 
The impulse line from the reed flange that the carb sits on, I put the pressure/vacuum tester hose over it and pull the saw over to see if crankcase impulse is coming through. I did it before & after I took the flange off & replaced the large gasket underneath it.
 
Kind of a useless test then.
You need to focus on actual crankcase leaks.
If the carb has been ruled out.....
Otherwise, you are just treading water in the sea...... Eventually you will need to do something positive....
 
Ha ha, that's funny Harley... Something positive

I'm Stihl trained; they're just looking to see that impulse is coming through the port not to try and record any real value. You're looking for blockages; if the hose is kinked or the like.
The purpose of the test is to verify that CC pressure is getting to the fuel pump. The p/v test will reveal any actual leaks in the impulse line.
In retrospect I kind of agree: on the 1120 series it is not as valuable because of the reed flange set up, but it was something to rule out especially since the non-running condition of the thing was that it was running out of gas.
 

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