I have been rebuilding a stihl 032 av. new caber rings, carb kit, fuel/impulse lines, and replaced points/condensor with a nova trigger. Put it all back together, starts up and runs fine for a few minutes then dies and won't restart right away. Did this several times and decided to try a new nova module, same results. So, I finally used an inline spark tester and the saw does indeed lose spark after running for a few minutes. To me, this indicates that the ignition coil is failing when it heats up. Does that sound right? And if that is the case, anyone have a good used coil?
Stihl 032 av coil issue?
- Thread starter sven556
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tomdcoker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds right to me, but you are doing better than I did on the last 032 I worked on. I could not get it to fire, customer picked it up and carried it to anothershop and got it fixed. Needless to say all 032 that I get go to the other shop. Tom
John Charleston
New Member
I'm in the process of doing the same - picked up an old 032 AV in great shape; except it would run as you described. The piston is without any score markings, rebuilt Tillotson carb, and replaced fuel lines. Problem persists. Purchased the Nova spark controller but decided to replace the electronic ignition module first instead (I also had checked spark and it is present when spinning the flywheel). So I am interested to find out what you learn!
oh sure sucked in by another 031/32 great saw but cant tell just how great it is cause the dang thing wont run long enough to get out the back door of the barn.....but there some great saw....I had the same problem with a 031 that I put a almost new 032 top end on but croaked the coil cutting some oak on a hot day......bad coil...getting harder to find them nla new I'm sure....but I gently pushed off the coil winding assembly from a 028 points coil and fitted it to he 031 metal "frame" with some silicone to secure it and great spark...has nova unit but gonna go back to points as he points cond were not the prob....cause i'm old school with that age saw...this could help or further add the utter frustration of owning a 031/32 series saw.....
enjoy
enjoy
Parts are still out there. I know a few people that horde them for some reason..
Burnses - your idea of changing just the winding assembly got me thinking... If the 028 points coil works, then a ms290 coil should work. Right? The ms290 coil is supposed to be a replacement for the 028 points coil from what I understand and it would possibly convert the 032 from points to electronic ignition. Anyway, I followed Burnses lead and pushed off the winding assembly from the 032 ignition, pushed on the winding assembly from an ms290 ignition. Replaced the spark plug wire with a little longer piece, installed the ignition, and tested for spark. No go.
I figured, I would at least get a spark, if the ms290 winding was good (this is unknown, I got this coil used with some other parts). So I started testing the ms290 winding. I'm not sure how this works with the built in electronic ignition. I tried ohming out the leads on the winding and the only thing that didn't read open was the spade terminal that went to the kill switch had zero ohms to the saw case. Does this mean the winding is bad? or is it backwards from ignitions that short the spark to ground to kill the spark?
Any other suggestions on whether this may or may not work? ms290 coils are cheap enough I will buy a AM one to tinker with, if this has a chance of working!
I figured, I would at least get a spark, if the ms290 winding was good (this is unknown, I got this coil used with some other parts). So I started testing the ms290 winding. I'm not sure how this works with the built in electronic ignition. I tried ohming out the leads on the winding and the only thing that didn't read open was the spade terminal that went to the kill switch had zero ohms to the saw case. Does this mean the winding is bad? or is it backwards from ignitions that short the spark to ground to kill the spark?
Any other suggestions on whether this may or may not work? ms290 coils are cheap enough I will buy a AM one to tinker with, if this has a chance of working!
im not sure the 290 electronic coil would work because there may be some component in side that is dependent on the 290 mounting frame.....when I get a chance ill look back at a 28 coil to give me an idea of how it all worked out......
I got the 290 coil to fit. I had to rotate it 180 around the laminated iron frame and add a longer plug wire, but I don't think that orientation would have any affect on the operation. Now, with the electronic part, if the magnetic poles on the flywheel are opposite on the 032, I could see some diode in there causing an issue. But, at this point all I'm doing is guessing...
Ok, I bought a new coil for an MS 290 on amazon for about $11. knocked the coil assembly off the laminations and pushed it onto the laminations from the 032 ignition, replaced the spark plug lead with a longer piece, put everything back together, and it runs!! I haven't had a chance to fine tune the carb or try it out in wood, but it looks like this will do the trick.
So, for anyone else that wants to try this. It looks like it is possible to replace the points and ignition coil on a stihl 032 with a cheap aftermarket coil from an ms 290.
So, for anyone else that wants to try this. It looks like it is possible to replace the points and ignition coil on a stihl 032 with a cheap aftermarket coil from an ms 290.
tomdcoker
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK. I just learned something which proves the old saying, never to old to learn. To answer the question above about another model working on the 032, the 032 is an entity unto itself.
I knew that the module on a McCullough could be changed, but not a stihl. Tom
that's pretty cool probable run real nice now! congrats!
I should update this thread. The coil does allow the saw to run, but it doesn't run very well! I think it's a timing problem. If anyone would be able to walk me through how to set/measure the timing that would be great! I have an automotive timing light, if that would be any help.
Just run the piston up to top dead center and make a mark on the flywheel and body of saw adjacent to the mark on the flywheel. Make another mark which would be roughly 20 degrees advanced also on the saw next to the flywheel when flywheel turns in normal direction. I turn the flywheel over with a half inch cordless drill counterclockwise with timing light hooked to spark plug wire. Of course you'll have to find a way to power the light, I use a 12 volt power supply but you could use a battery. Turn the drill on and see if the flywheel mark lines up with the 20 degree advance mark. Kinda hard to hold the drill and the timing light but not impossible.. You'll probably need to leave the spark plug out for this test or the drill may not be able to turn the engine over.
Well I'll bring this thread back from the dead. It's been over 4 years since I messed with this saw. Life happened and I ended up getting a couple newer saws for routine work and this one sat on the shelf.
Recently I thought I would take another look at this saw. After this long I've forgotten most of what I did originally, so I decided to start fresh and do a pressure/vac test. It loses about 1 psi in the first minute on both tests. I think it's the rubber seal I have between the cylinder and muffler but it's so tight in there it's hard to get the soapy water sprayed in there and see any bubbles. I need to make a metal blank for it. As it is only 1 PSI per minute, I doubt that is my main issue. Open to opinions on this; I would like it not leak at all and will continue to look for the leak.
I haven't looked into the carburetor again but I assume it needs cleaning and a new kit after sitting for this long.
Compression was checked and is 165 PSI, so that's good. I'm pretty sure I put a new piston and rings in it.
So, I finally got around to checking the ignition timing. Set up the timing light running off the battery in my truck, clamp around the saws spark plug wire. Spun the flywheel with a cordless drill. (Thanks Palmer for the setup instructions!) Initially the timing light wouldn't light up. Tip for anyone working with a timing light (this was only my second time); current has to flow through the spark plug lead for the light to work. I should have known that! So, to avoid having to work against the saws compression, I put the spark plug in the boot and sort of wedged it between the cylinder head and the saw shroud and the timing light worked great. I measured it at about 35 to 36 degrees before TDC.
A couple thoughts. Since I am using a coil that was originally on a two lobed steel lamination. Does anyone know what effect the three lobed ignition module laminations would have compared to the newer designs with only two lobes? I am considering shortening one of the lobes so it would basically be a two lobed but I'm not sure which one I should cut back. If anyone has a broken 032 ignition coil to donate, I could test it both ways.
I might try adjusting the flywheel and setting it without a key to see how it runs that way. I'm not sure I like that for a permanent solution but it might work.
Recently I thought I would take another look at this saw. After this long I've forgotten most of what I did originally, so I decided to start fresh and do a pressure/vac test. It loses about 1 psi in the first minute on both tests. I think it's the rubber seal I have between the cylinder and muffler but it's so tight in there it's hard to get the soapy water sprayed in there and see any bubbles. I need to make a metal blank for it. As it is only 1 PSI per minute, I doubt that is my main issue. Open to opinions on this; I would like it not leak at all and will continue to look for the leak.
I haven't looked into the carburetor again but I assume it needs cleaning and a new kit after sitting for this long.
Compression was checked and is 165 PSI, so that's good. I'm pretty sure I put a new piston and rings in it.
So, I finally got around to checking the ignition timing. Set up the timing light running off the battery in my truck, clamp around the saws spark plug wire. Spun the flywheel with a cordless drill. (Thanks Palmer for the setup instructions!) Initially the timing light wouldn't light up. Tip for anyone working with a timing light (this was only my second time); current has to flow through the spark plug lead for the light to work. I should have known that! So, to avoid having to work against the saws compression, I put the spark plug in the boot and sort of wedged it between the cylinder head and the saw shroud and the timing light worked great. I measured it at about 35 to 36 degrees before TDC.
A couple thoughts. Since I am using a coil that was originally on a two lobed steel lamination. Does anyone know what effect the three lobed ignition module laminations would have compared to the newer designs with only two lobes? I am considering shortening one of the lobes so it would basically be a two lobed but I'm not sure which one I should cut back. If anyone has a broken 032 ignition coil to donate, I could test it both ways.
I might try adjusting the flywheel and setting it without a key to see how it runs that way. I'm not sure I like that for a permanent solution but it might work.
Tonight I made a metal blank for the exhaust port, sandwiched a piece of rubber between the blank and the exhaust. Then I redid the pressure test. It was not the seal between the muffler and exhaust as I had suspected. After a bit of searching and using a piece of tubing as a stethoscope, I could hear a leak around the intake boot. Using the soapy water did not show a leak on the boot but a couple more minutes of looking and I found the leak between the crankcase and cylinder. Now it looks like I need to tear down this saw further to reseal the cylinder.
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