Stihl 032 Fuel Cap

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Jungle Jim

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Is anyone familiar with the OEM fuel cap on an 032? I've cleaned it up, blown it out but it's not venting. Can't blow thru it and the tank's getting pressurized. I took it apart and don't see any way this arrangement could work. There are 2 white nylon cylinders nested inside the body of the (black) fuel cap. The cap has a vent hole which contains a short cotter pin that floats in there above a grub screw in the uppermost cylinder. Both the upper cylinder and the lower one have various vent holes but the grub screw is totally plugging the access to outside air. It fits way too tight to pass air via its screw threads. If the grub screw were removed I can see how this might work - wondering if it's supposed to be there or if someone has been messing with it or how it's supposed to work? Thanks --Jim
 
That grub screw is not supposed to be hand threaded in, rather just pushed in a bit so that the threads are not buried into the plastic.

Unscrew it, run a thin slit up the thread side with a Dremel cutoff disc, then just push it back in. Go back to cutting wood.

Those old school caps will seep some fuel out when felling trees with the saw on its side & a full tank of gas...
 
Thanks HarleyT & Hotshot, IPL & suggestions both most helpful.

Took it apart again, Parts list does not indicate a cotter pin in the cap #16, 21 vent hole but that's what i found there, a 1/16 x 1/2" cotter pin, spread for retention inside the cap. This occupied space needed for the grub screw #19 which was screwed all the way down into #18 insert, effectively blocking any ventilation. The insert, BTW, is a press fit and does not float in its compartment.

Years ago I took it to the dealer and I'm guessing this was one of their ideas. Maybe just uninformed or else they wanted to sell me a new saw! It never ran right after that, of course, and I had to loosen the cap every so often to get it running forever after. Needless to say, never took it to them again and now they are out of business.

Hotshot, the grub screw is just a little too long to fit floating above the insert plus is way too tight to push in a bit. I could bore it out a bit, put in a shorter screw or smaller size screw or leave it out altogether. How this was supposed to work originally is still a bit questionable given the above. Assuming the screw slot goes upwards I'm guessing it was meant to be adjusted from the top of the cap, backing it out to contact the cap whereby the screw slot would vent to the outside. If that just left one turn of screw thread in the insert it might just work but my grub screw is just a little too long. Your slot idea sounds doable.

As for the cotter pin I'm inclined to toss it. A real dirt collector too. Thought is to put a little piece of foam in the hole instead.

Re the IPL, part #22 valve on the bottom of the cap is missing. Thought it might be in the bottom of the tank but not there. It does not seem essential so I'll do without for now. Perhaps a new cap is in order if they're still available.

What I did find in the tank was a surprising amount of black dirt, stuck tight, and a good bit of water! Hmmmmmmm. All cleaned up now. Filter was in good condition and clean though.

Any further thoughts on this are most welcomed. This is part of a greater issue with the saw and I'll probably be posting again soon after I try some things.

I would like to ask a related question about fuel. I've run premium fuel for the last 10 years or so ... wow, what a difference ... but before that just regular gas (with ethanol). I'm wondering what are the potential consequences of that. Also with premium gas, should I also be using stabilizer? And with these older saws, is it a good idea to use lead substitute additive? I never thought about it before, but do run it in my old gas tractor.

Thanks again --Jim
 
Yup, whatever method you choose, vent that fuel cap before cutting wood again...

Have had no issues with fresh ethanol mix if you adjust the carb & then run the saw dry after cutting, but best practice is to use no-E gas, premium or not. Run 40:1 Stihl dinosaur juice in mine.

Good quality 2-stroke oils have a stabilizer already added, so never buy cheap oil.

7514E4C4-8C4B-4F80-9DD7-BB3882151BAC.jpeg
 
Hotshot you say the better grade oils have a stabilizer in them what is the stabilizer called and what does it stabilize also is the stabilizer listed on the bottle or can.I am not trying to be a wise guy but sure would like to know.
Kash
 

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