stihl 041 farmboss

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hooch

ArboristSite Lurker
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western australia
I have been handed an old 041 and although it runs the aircleaner has lost all of it's coating, can you still purchase a new one or is there a spray available to repair these. Needs to be fixed before I can attack a choice jarrah log.
Hooch.
 
Stihl 041 Farmboss Air Filter

I bought one from my local Stihl dealer about 6 months ago for my old 041 Farmboss. He had to order it, but it only took a couple of days to arrive.
 
Old 041 Farm Boss

I have read several threads here and have learned a lot... but sometimes realism sets in and it hits you, that the more you learn the more you understand you don't know. Great Site!! I inherited my Father's 041 Farm Boss. I remember when he bought in new in the late 70's. It will start on the first pull, and run strong until it heats up. At that point it will start to run a little erratic, and then once you shut it off, "ForgetAboutIt", It won't hit a lick..You can pull your guts out. NO GO, until it cools off to near room temperature.

From What I have read on this forum, I think the coil is bad. I also believe the coil is Unavailable through Stihl. Can someone offer suggestions on what makes the most sense to do about this saw...I don't mind spending some money on this saw, because it was my Dad's... I think $200 should an upper limit, but not even real sure about that... I have seen used coils on ebay, but no guarantee’s, As Is only.

1. How can I determine if it really is the coil? I guess it might be points, but seems like it would not start easy if that was the problem.
2. If it is the coil and I could somehow find a replacement, I would need a puller for the flywheel. Where to get one, or are there other alternatives?
3. Is there a way to upgrade to electronic ignition?
4. I have had the saw to a local Stihl repair shop, and they confirmed they "Think it might be the coil" and they can't get one. Their reccommendation was to buy a MS-290 -- That's what they said

Any ideas would be truly appreciated.
 
041 Farm Boss

Took the saw to a bigger Stihl Repair shop yesterday, The technician was kind enough to tell me that he thought at least part of the problem was Carburator related. But,,, He said he still couldn't rule out a coil problem. He thought points were likely OK, so if there is an electrical problem it would likely be condenser and/or coil...condenser he said was available.

He also had a good tip I thought I would pass along. If the engine is getting flooded after the saw is run for a while, (which he suspected) when it starts to run bad, or quits, -> then pull the plug and use compressed air to dry out the cylinder. Then try to start it up. If it starts up, then the primary problem is likely fuel / carburator related. If the saw continues to NOT start then should be able to say ignition problem.

Although the Stihl tech wouldn't comment, I still wonder if there would be a way to convert to electronic ignition.... We figured this saw is about a 1977 vintage saw.... Any ideas out there? Seems like a shame to make a boat anchor out of such a good ole saw.
 
If it starts fine cold, I would start at the fuel system, take off the air filter and plate, etc. Remove the fuel filter and look inside. There should be a foam insert, or used to be, in there. After 20 or more years, that foam breaks up and collects in the carb. Take your carb apart, look inside.
The rubber parts are likely stiff, the screen full of crud, etc. The impulse hose going to the engine is likely cracked. Also, the is a stack of gaskets and blocks under the carb, whose screws vibrate loose, so double check
those too.

What part of KY are you in?
 
041 Farmboss

THANKS for the Repy Fish!
Hopefully I have covered the fuel filter, I bought another and put on the saw early on, Went through the carb and cleaned the gunk out, as best I could., It's been a while, but what I remember, all that looked pretty good. I did have a concern about.. Not much way to set the needle valve/float level, but all I did was try to clean things up, not change anything.
I did not look at the impluse hose, just assumed it was OK...but I will take a look at that. Is there a way to check other than visually?

I am close to Owensboro.... Yrs ago, I spent some time in Cambellsville, so I am a little familiar with your area.... Nice country. Green River Lake had some good fishing back then.
 
Although the Stihl tech wouldn't comment, I still wonder if there would be a way to convert to electronic ignition....

The points ignition can be converted to electronic by simply installing a Nova ignition module. I fixed a 041 Super that way. If you need the ignition components, you can use one from a 045. Bolts right on. You'll need a points flywheel too.
 
041 - Farm Boss

Fish.... I will tear down the carb again...I have had it completely apart and I tried to do a really good job...but I know Carbs can be tricky so trying again and making a difference wouldn't surprize me.

So if I go through the carb again and it comes back to ignition then:

blsnelling: I was told this saw is a points saw. I guess that would mean I have a points flywheel. The points and condenser are available, and I would be happy to have the Stihl shop do the work...The problem has been, they think it is the coil and and the coil is unavailable. ( Although they have not had the flywheel off.....) Also since the problem is only evident when the saw has been run for more than 15 minutes or so...it takes a little more to dianose the problem than just hooking up to a meter.

This so called "Nova ignition module."... is this a Stihl approved repair? Or is this something that I have to get an independant repair shop to take on? If so is there a shop someone could reccomment that I could ship the saw to for this work???


Thanks for all your help...
 
The Nova module is aftermarket. I would figure out whats wrong and correct it. I am a advocate of points. They have likely lasted 30plus years. Fix it and they will last 30 more. When it dies does it have spark. I use an inline spark tester and run the saw keeping an eye on it. If its spark related then you will have to dig deeperinto ignition.:)
 
041- Farm Boss

I guess the plan will be to
(1) go through the Carb again... Clean up, soak parts and re-install
(2) run the saw, If it doesn't fail....or run's better, perhaps it is carb related.
(3) If it does fail after it gets warm. Then:
(4) Check for spark. If no Spark -> Ignition
(1) If Spark -> Then Maybe Carb -> Remove Plug and Check for flooding
(2) Dry out combustion Chamber and see if it will start.

If I get to the point it is ignition, and I have to pull the flywheel, will I need a special tool to pull it? Or is there an alternate procedure. I have several gear pullers in the shop...


Thanks for everyone's input
 
blsnelling: I was told this saw is a points saw. I guess that would mean I have a points flywheel. The points and condenser are available, and I would be happy to have the Stihl shop do the work...The problem has been, they think it is the coil and and the coil is unavailable. ( Although they have not had the flywheel off.....) Also since the problem is only evident when the saw has been run for more than 15 minutes or so...it takes a little more to dianose the problem than just hooking up to a meter.

This so called "Nova ignition module."... is this a Stihl approved repair? Or is this something that I have to get an independant repair shop to take on? If so is there a shop someone could reccomment that I could ship the saw to for this work???

I had an 045 with points ignition. It would loose spark when hot. I replace the condensor and still no joy. The points were good. It turned out to be the coil. In that case I just swapped it out with a good 041 points ignition.

The 041 Super I had without spark originally had electronic ignition. In that case I bought a points ignition with the aftermarket Nova module. I also had to get a 041 points flywheel. Check with Pes+ if you're interested in going this route.
 
I had an 041 with the same issues. I rebuilt the carb, and it continued to plug. I replaced the fuel filter, bad foam, replaced the fuel lines and the impulse line. Would run then get hot and die. I ended up using an aftermarket ignition module, which my local dealer recommended. Haven't had a bit of problems since. They didn't carry the condensor, so I decided to try the module. Works great. Mine was a blue one, cant remember the exact name of it, but works great! I also thought it was compression, but I was getting 150+.
 
041 Fram Boss - Update

Had a chance to work on it some more; Here is what I found.
(1) When it stopped I was able to check spark...It had spark --GOOD!
(2) Pulled the spark Plug, Wet.... Used Compressed air, to dry out piston/cylinder and Plug...Started right up...ran a bit then stopped again..

So based on your help, I think I have a carb problem..took off , took off every think I could, and cleaned it up. Back together, and still would get flooded out. It would run and seemed like it would get up to speed then peter out, like it wasn't getting enough gas.... but was flooded...

Started looking for a carb kit... One question I have is the kits have screen's. I have not seen any screen's, Have read that sometimes these elusive screen's get clogged up...Where are they??

Anybody have any ideas????
 
Had a chance to work on it some more; Here is what I found.
(1) When it stopped I was able to check spark...It had spark --GOOD!
(2) Pulled the spark Plug, Wet.... Used Compressed air, to dry out piston/cylinder and Plug...Started right up...ran a bit then stopped again..

So based on your help, I think I have a carb problem..took off , took off every think I could, and cleaned it up. Back together, and still would get flooded out. It would run and seemed like it would get up to speed then peter out, like it wasn't getting enough gas.... but was flooded...

Started looking for a carb kit... One question I have is the kits have screen's. I have not seen any screen's, Have read that sometimes these elusive screen's get clogged up...Where are they??

Anybody have any ideas????
your carb will have a screen - it's on the pump side. If it doesn't it should have one. It's number 20 in the breakdown:
041carb.jpg
 
The small screen, pc. 20 in the diagram, has to be pressed into a recess in the carb body. I used a piece of 1/4" dowel, whittled down to a slightly smaller diameter. That screen was the problem with my saw when it needed the carb worked on. It was totally plugged with tan fibrous material from the fuel pickup filter, and the next time it was plugged, it was from black gunk from a deteriorating fuel hose. It doesn't sound like this is your problem, however.
 
If any of yall need a 041 Farmboss parts saw, let me know. I have one that fried the jug+slug. muffler is rusted out and a bolt or two is missing-its in a pile of pieces right now.

PM me if interested
 
041 Farmboss - Carb Rebuild

Update:
After we received a record ice storm and were out of power for 14 days... I finally got around to working on the saw again. At this point the saw would run for a while then it appeared to be flooded. I ordered a Carb kit. from Mowers4u.com. Real fast delivery... Found one of the screens to be plugged nearly solid. Thought I had found the problem. Put it back together. Now it will not run or hit at all.

Seems like it is not getting enough gas. I went through the carb several times and made sure it was put together correctly. I have soaked the carb in cleaner, and cleaned it a couple of times now, and have done about everything I know to do. As far as I can tell it is 100% clear and clean. It will run if I squirt a little fuel down the throat of the carb, untill it uses up the gas.

Any ideas on how to proceed?? I am starting out with the 1 turn Low Speed ad High Speed adj

Thanks for all your help
 

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