backhoelover
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when you are doing a press vac test you want to turn the engine over by hand and check for a leak. i have seen where seals would only leak when you would turn the engine over
Stihl 041 tuning issues
- Thread starter sven556
- Start date
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I've never seen a main seal where the rubber part was completely missing until this one. I'll seal the stack up like you did when I put it back together. Seal won't get here until next week. Guess I should have gone to my friendly Stihl dealer for the seal but he probably wouldn't have it..
If that 041 uses the late black SEM GE module, and if it still won't spool up to speed or still backfires after your air leak repairs, then the SEM module is faulty and needs replaced. Good luck with finding a new old stock one as I never did.
The "backfiring" & low RPM was the exact issue I had many years back with one on my Super 041s, and when it backfired at idle it would sometimes stall & then restart itself to run the chain backwards! That could quickly destroy the starter if the rope handle was bumped or pulled out.
Replacement with a good used SEM fixed it, but I'd first suggest putting an inline spark tester like a ZAT4 on it & watch the spark die out when you fully open the throttle.
I wish I would have taken a video of that saw running the wrong way... could have turned it upside down and cut wood with it, Lol.
The "backfiring" & low RPM was the exact issue I had many years back with one on my Super 041s, and when it backfired at idle it would sometimes stall & then restart itself to run the chain backwards! That could quickly destroy the starter if the rope handle was bumped or pulled out.
Replacement with a good used SEM fixed it, but I'd first suggest putting an inline spark tester like a ZAT4 on it & watch the spark die out when you fully open the throttle.
I wish I would have taken a video of that saw running the wrong way... could have turned it upside down and cut wood with it, Lol.
Joel D'Angelo
ArboristSite Operative
Don't forget your metering lever. I have seen those way off out of the carb kit package. Can cause all sorts of problems. I can't tell you where it should be as I do it by eye but I'm sure someone else can.
Figured I should update this post. I tried everything I could think of and everything that was suggested on this board.. It still has no power in the cut. I am blaming it on a faulty electronic ignition module; as that is the best I can do! If anyone is looking for a good project pm me.
Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.
Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.
Did you check to make sure the flywheel is the correct one for that ignition? It has a part number on it and I believe there are three different ones for the 041.
Sorry to hear you didn`t find and fix the problem but there comes a point when a saw is just not worth the frustration and expense. Hope someone takes it and figures out what it needs, my guess is still that ignition but I have been wrong many times before this.
I thought mine was the ignition also, turned out my biggest problem was an air leak..those saws have several places that can leak, more than most saws. I wish we lived closer so we could compare notes..
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well! Now you're getting somewhere! Please post your results!
On mine it had a good spark, timing was okay so I cleaned the carburetor and checked the intake stack, which leaked. I sealed that all up with same results so I went ahead and put in a new set of points and condenser and it still didn't start without putting fuel into the spark plug hole, so I did a pressure test and it wouldn't even register anything so I had to physically look for a leak which was in the clutch area, turned out to be the big seal on the crank which was completely worn out. I replaced it and it still wouldn't pass the pressure test so I pulled out the oil pump and sealed around it and that did the trick!
