Stihl 056 AV Super - Cylinder Scored need Help Please

[Zolo]

Hi Guys, i am trying to save a cylinder for my Stihl 056 AV Super chainsaw, it was running badly before i taken this into parts and seen cylinder was badly scored. unfortunately piston was shot so i bought new piston and rings cost me £30. but then i am trying to save the cylinder and so far i was used the muratic acid to clean the cylinder and it is looking much better compare to what it was before. i can only feel one small scratch on the right side of the cylinder starting from exhaust port and goes all the way up but other than that i can still see bit of aluminum but there are no bubble coming out after the acid application which means that i have cleaned most of it. so now i want to use a sand paper to clean this up any further.

so need an expert advice what sandpaper/grit paper i should be using? also is it worth saving this cylinder or i am going to lose my £30 piston. these cylinders are not common to it will be difficult to find one. The chainsaw was running before i took it into parts but it was running rough. what you guys think?
Thanks in advance.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Buff it up with some 320 machine paper to get the high spots off then polish it with some red Scotchbrite. Clean it well and put the saw together and run it. It will not be perfect but it will run well and cut wood.

 

[smokey7]

If i am seeing the pics right i would run some 150 then red scotch brite. I dont see snything that would condem that jug

 

[Zolo]

thanks guys much appreciated very useful information. one question though when i am cleaning the jug with grit/sand paper do i need to do in circle or up and down, i just read it somewhere that you should not move up and down rather move your hand in circles, is that right? also where i can buy red scotchbrite paper from? any links would be useful as i am in UK and will try to buy the same thing here. Thanks for your guys help

 

[Conquistador3]

thanks guys much appreciated very useful information. one question though when i am cleaning the jug with grit/sand paper do i need to do in circle or up and down, i just read it somewhere that you should not move up and down rather move your hand in circles, is that right? also where i can buy red scotchbrite paper from? any links would be useful as i am in UK and will try to buy the same thing here. Thanks for your guys help

Red Scotch-Brite is sold on several European markets under the "Mirka Mirlon" brand and name. The one you want is the "A" or "Very Fine" grade, which is... red-colored.
It's usually available in rolls or pads and you can buy it from eBay, Amazon and several other UK-based vendors.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Round and round is preferable over vertical up and down motion with the sandpaper. I prefer to use machine paper/cloth backed sanding sheets, its designed for sanding metal.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have several of these that come in handy for cleaning up cylinders, one must be careful when using such tools to not go too far too fast but they will clean up a cylinder quickly,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPX6RL6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1

Then use this type of Scotch-Brite drum to final polish,

 

[Zolo]

much appreciated guys, very helpful. seems like i have some work to do over the weekend, will come back to you if have any further updates or questions but very helpful thanks

 

[blsnelling]

I'd go as coarse as 220 grit and do it by hand. IMHO, it's too easy to go too far with a rotary tool using sandpaper.

 

[smokey7]

Then when you are all dont sanding wash it out really good soap and water. Brush thru all the ports and blow out very good with shop air. Then white paper towle test it.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Do what Mr. Snelling said and I like spraying it wd40 or use light oil. A lot worse are on running saws.

 

[Zolo]

hi guys, i have cleaned the cylinder, used 400 grid paper then used red Scotch-Brite all the marks are not fully sorted but it smooth other than one mark which i thought i need to leave, i spent 10 - 15 minutes in the cylinder and cleaned it with hand. now i have put everything together so only one last question what should be the LA screw setting? i know the default setting for L and H screws but LA screw setting i have no idea and it is currently closed all the way down. so i have to open up the screw. can i do 2 full turns or three full turns? any idea please

 

[Conquistador3]

hi guys, i have cleaned the cylinder, used 400 grid paper then used red Scotch-Brite all the marks are not fully sorted but it smooth other than one mark which i thought i need to leave, i spent 10 - 15 minutes in the cylinder and cleaned it with hand. now i have put everything together so only one last question what should be the LA screw setting? i know the default setting for L and H screws but LA screw setting i have no idea and it is currently closed all the way down. so i have to open up the screw. can i do 2 full turns or three full turns? any idea please

"LA" settings on Stihl's is their fancy way to say "Idle". If you are still to properly tune the saw, start by screwing it all in and backing off two full turns.

 

[Zolo]

hello guys thanks for everybodies help so far, i managed to start and run the saw yesterday evening, sorry it took me bit of time to adjust the carb but the saw has good compression and power. it is very heavy and powerful machine. one thing i did notice that the chain is keep running even on idle speed. i tried my best to adjust the H screw as well as LA screw but i am unable to stop the chain. if i change the L and LA screw too much then saw dies. so to me it looks like there is something wrong with clutch am i right? i am unable to see any damage to the clutch springs, the springs looks alright. what you guys suggest, do i need to buy clutch and sprocket/drum? also chainsaw is throwing lot of chain oil not sure how i can set the chain oil for this chainsaw, is there any screw somewhere? your help would be much appriciated. thanks

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

You're not going to be able to see any "damage" to a weak spring.

Get the saw running at idle by adjusting the L screw. Then back out the LA screw until the chain stops, then go out just a bit further. If the saw dies before the chain stops while you're backing out the LA screw, I would bet that it's time for a new clutch.

 

[Zolo]

You're not going to be able to see any "damage" to a weak spring.

Get the saw running at idle by adjusting the L screw. Then back out the LA screw until the chain stops, then go out just a bit further. If the saw dies before the chain stops while you're backing out the LA screw, I would bet that it's time for a new clutch.

do i just need a clutch or do i need sprocket/drum as well? can sprocket/drum can be wear out? the reason i am asking that these parts are quite expensive so i can use the existing sprocket/drum then it will save me some money, also any idea about too much oiling? is there any screw that needs adjusting?

 

[Mad Professor]

Try going back and forth between the LA and L adjustments. You might be able to get it to idle without chain spinning.

Look over the clutch where the springs hook the shoes and carrier. Besides the springs the holes can get elongated.

My IPL shows two different sets of shoes and springs, but only 1 type of carrier.

The clutch drum can be a spur or rim design in 3/8 or 0.404 pitch (match to your bar/chain). Check the bearing and it's a good time to look over the oil pump if you have the clutch off. There is an adjuster screw on bottom of case. There are o-rings, a gasket, and a plug on the oiler and two types of drive gears.