Stihl 056 help needed!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

VTboy

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
22
Reaction score
1
Location
I am Homesteader and knowleadgable forager.
Alright guys, so i just had a terrible first experience with my recently acquired stihl 056 super. Got the thing on ebay, just got the bar and chain in today so i decided i would test it out. Mixed a fresh batch of fuel, filled her with the fluids and went out to cut. It started easily and cut through a hornbeam log like butter. The saw ran great with tons of power. I end up making four cuts (in 10 degree weather) and then let it idle. It was idling high so i set it down to go get a screwdriver. Step into the shop and it dies. Wont re start. Check it for spark, nothing. I read here about problems with the bosch ignition modules, so i knew about the issues people have had with the ignition crapping out, just wasnt expecting it to happen after four cuts on a cold day!! Frustrated as heck right now. What should i do? Look for a replacement part? Get it checked out by a pro? Should i do the SEM flywheel switch and if so does anyone here have those parts for sale? Advice would be much appreciated, thanks guys.
 
Common Bosch failure

VTBoy,

Yes, assuming it's all stock, that's the way the failing Bosch CD ignitions act up.

You have two routes you can take to run it.
Update to the SEM module and flywheel, or you can go backwards to the points and condensor
IF your crankshaft has the cam lobe for the points. An early Super should still have the cam lobe.

You'll know just what igntion you have once you get the flywheel pulled off. There were four different
types, so if it was ever worked on, it could be any of the four.

There are a lot of threads on this topic, if you will do a search.
 
On eBay right now there is a Stihl 056 SEM flywheel with one broken fin for $35, and several for $75. The one broken fin wouldn't bother me.


There is a guy in England selling TS-350 Sem modules for $105 and $14 dollars shipping. Same module.

So, for $160 or so you can make it play like new.


Like the man says , if you can find the old points sytem it would be cheaper if your crank has the lobe.
 
been there

Just to be sure disconnect the switch before buying parts.Had one go bad and bought one saw with the switch installed upside down!On was off. just a thought.
Russ
 
Just to be sure disconnect the switch before buying parts.Had one go bad and bought one saw with the switch installed upside down!On was off. just a thought.
Russ

I'd check the spark plug wire also. It rubs where it runs through the case. It's been known to cause problems also.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. What do i have to do to get to the module? Im gonna check the switch and the spark plug wire, but if they both check out ok than i want to get at the ignition unit to see what brand/part number it is. How do i do this?

Thanks

VTboy
 
It is under the flywheel. You will need a tool that screws in to the threaded part in the center of the flywheel. Once it is threaded in a bolt in the center of the tool is tightened to push against the end of the crankshaft and forced the flywheel off. Get your dealer to pop it off for $5 or something.

BTW, it is bigger than the more common size threads on most Stihl saws.
 
It is under the flywheel. You will need a tool that screws in to the threaded part in the center of the flywheel. Once it is threaded in a bolt in the center of the tool is tightened to push against the end of the crankshaft and forced the flywheel off. Get your dealer to pop it off for $5 or something.

BTW, it is bigger than the more common size threads on most Stihl saws.

That's true if he has the sem flywheel but the Bosch has the exact opposite. The bosch needs a special tool. I borrowed this pic from a member. I wish I could remember who.
attachment.php


I have seen a tool on ebay before. I bet one of the sponsers has it also.
 
Last edited:
That's true if he has the sem flywheel but the Bosch has the exact opposite. The bosch needs a special tool. I borrowed this pic from a member. I wish I could remember who.
attachment.php


I have seen a tool on ebay before. I bet one of the sponsers has it also.

Well, I don't think he has the SEM. Either way, his dealer should pull it cheaper than he can chase down a tool.
 
The SEM flywheel was NLA from factory from 2005 so you'd be looking for a NOS/good used one.

The SEM module, part number 1108 400 0800, retails for £60 ($90) inc tax over here. Shouldn't have a problem finding a good used one as they were also used on the TS350 cut off saws.

The puller for the Bosch flywheel, part number 1107 890 4500, retails for £22 ($33) inc tax. (Also used to remove the generator on a lot of Stihl saws).
 
Thanks jonathan for the info and the part numbers, now i know what to look for if i need to replace the ignition.

I ran the saw again today, it started after about 4 pulls, so it got its spark back, at least temporarily. It seems to have a hard time idling however. I am beginning to suspect the carb as a culprit here. I set the screws to 1 1/4 low and 1 high. Had a hard time getting a good idle, either the chain was racing or it would sputter out after 30 seconds to a minute of idling (saw was warmed up). Im not used to cutting with these bigger saws, but as i was cutting through a small hornbeam log (with a 32" bar lol) it started to have a hard time at full throttle. It ran fine cutting at half throttle. So once i got the low speed adjustment as good as i could, i let it idle, and it would always cut out eventually, sometimes suddenly and sometimes it would sputter out. I have to wait about 10 minutes to start it after this happens. Its about 5 degrees today, and my 032 is cutting like a champ. Another reason i suspect the carb/fuel system is i had the saw on its side when i took off the starter and it started leaking gas. So im gonna change the fuel line and filter, but any thoughts on the issue would be appreciated.
 
First thing,be SURE that it has no spark when it quits. I've seen people mistaken by looking for spark and not seeing it in bright sunlight-check it in a darker place,pry open the gap on a spark plug to test also. The spark plug must be grounded on the motor properly,if you laid it on the top cover it may not be a good test,the top cover is rubber mounted,I used to have a little jumper wire from the plug to a cylinder fin for 056's.
I would be looking for a used ignition and flywheel as the cheapest option,and you must use the correct corresponding flywheel for the ignition you are using. Also when the Bosch ignitions were still being sold as replacement parts Stihl sold the ignition and flywheel as a matching set,both the flywheel and ignition had a small stick-on tag with matching numbers such as .433,not really sure what that was about. Anyway don't mix ignitions and flywheels. And like someone else said examine the spark plug wire closely for cracks or wear points.
 
Thanks jonathan for the info and the part numbers, now i know what to look for if i need to replace the ignition.

I ran the saw again today, it started after about 4 pulls, so it got its spark back, at least temporarily. It seems to have a hard time idling however. I am beginning to suspect the carb as a culprit here. I set the screws to 1 1/4 low and 1 high. Had a hard time getting a good idle, either the chain was racing or it would sputter out after 30 seconds to a minute of idling (saw was warmed up).

Im not used to cutting with these bigger saws, but as i was cutting through a small hornbeam log (with a 32" bar lol) it started to have a hard time at full throttle. It ran fine cutting at half throttle, seemed weird to me. So once i got the low speed adjustment as good as i could, i let it idle, and it would always cut out eventually, sometimes suddenly and sometimes it would sputter out. I have to wait about 10 minutes to start it after this happens. Its about 5 degrees today, and my 032 is cutting like a champ, so i dont think the cold has anyrhing to do with it.

Another reason i suspect the carb/fuel system: I had the saw on its side when i took off the starter and it started leaking gas from the carb. Seems like the fuel system could use some rebuilding. Does this sound about right?
 
First thing,be SURE that it has no spark when it quits. I've seen people mistaken by looking for spark and not seeing it in bright sunlight-check it in a darker place,pry open the gap on a spark plug to test also. The spark plug must be grounded on the motor properly,if you laid it on the top cover it may not be a good test,the top cover is rubber mounted,I used to have a little jumper wire from the plug to a cylinder fin for 056's.
I would be looking for a used ignition and flywheel as the cheapest option,and you must use the correct corresponding flywheel for the ignition you are using. Also when the Bosch ignitions were still being sold as replacement parts Stihl sold the ignition and flywheel as a matching set,both the flywheel and ignition had a small stick-on tag with matching numbers such as .433,not really sure what that was about. Anyway don't mix ignitions and flywheels. And like someone else said examine the spark plug wire closely for cracks or wear points.

I checked for spark in my dads shop, it was pretty dark, didnt see a thing the first time it cut out. I had the metal threads of the plug resting against the cylinder, is that an accurate test? if you read the post just after yours you will see that i got the saw started again, which is strange because i swear there was no spark that first time. One other thing is the saw seems to come back to an idle rather rough and slow, dont know if thats normal for these torquey saws or not.
 
I checked for spark in my dads shop, it was pretty dark, didnt see a thing the first time it cut out. I had the metal threads of the plug resting against the cylinder, is that an accurate test? if you read the post just after yours you will see that i got the saw started again, which is strange because i swear there was no spark that first time. One other thing is the saw seems to come back to an idle rather rough and slow, dont know if thats normal for these torquey saws or not.

It is NOT normal if the saw is running properly. You need to find out why it is doing this before you fry the top end. The ignition may be going bad as well. Those ignitions do not always do a "hard" fail. Sometimes they will quit when they get hot, and start making sparks again when they cool off. Sounds like it may be lean on the idle circuit if it is winding down slowly. Being hard to start is one symptom of a rich mixture, and would also foul the spark plug and make it appear to have no spark. So I am saying it could be either lean or rich, and not alot of way to tell without seeing a video of it running or having it in my shop. This may be as simple as a carb rebuild and fuel line swap, or as in-depth as an air leak between the engine cases.
 
So are you saying you found spark the second time or not?
I'm thinking SawDr is right that you may have some carb troubles,it sounds to me like your saw is flooding-stalling at idle,leaking gas,not revving well. Also the saw may be flooding when hot making it hard to start. Do a proper carb rebuild and set the mixture screws correctly and it should be ok.
Of course it could stihl(haha) have a bum ignition that quits when hot,but it's cheap to fix the carb,it's a cheap first step.
 
Before you go too far down the road pull the muffler off and look at the piston to make sure it's in good shape.

I certainly hope not, but you could have compression problems causing the saw not to idle.

If you will PM me your mailing address I'll send you another carb to try.

ZeroJunk

Got your carb in the mail the other day, seemed to do the trick as the 056 runs like a dream now. Cant wait to try milling with it tomorrow. Thank you brother! Glad i joined the forum, lots of helpful folk here.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top