I replaced my bar, my chain, my oil pump and the worm drive. The saw itself runs great. It oils but not enough. The passageway from the saw through the bar are impeccably clean. I only have one tin plate chain guide.... i use it on the oil feed side.... the other side has no tin plate guide (Which seems wierd to a husky guy)... but i can't see how that wood really matter. *** When i try to set the oil adjust screw on the bottom to MAX (all the way clockwise) .... it quickly backs off and does not stay ... within a minute or less. *** I'm at wits end... wondering. . Is this the problem? It doesn't oil much at all really. I've flushed out the tank with mixed gas many times. Is there a restriction in the lines between the pump and the oil reservoir? Do i need to split the entire case apart to get at this and make it better FOR SURE. SO frustrating... on the verge of spending another thousand bucks to replace a great saw with huge power that just won't oil. Ugh. Thanks for any help
STIHL 066 - not enough oil w/new pump
- Thread starter Kcarring
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
OEM pump or aftermarket?
Honestly it's been so long i can't remember if i went with an expensive or inexpensive Chinese one. At this point though... It looks like I've gone and messed up the casing by overtightening the oil adjust screw. See above. So at this point to taking the entire saw apart, casing and all... and finding out what is really going on 
. Does that mean I'll need to buy a casing gasket? Then i can redo the lines or blow them out... redo the pump with a factory pump... and at very least set the oiler so it is on max oil permanently.
. Does that mean I'll need to buy a casing gasket? Then i can redo the lines or blow them out... redo the pump with a factory pump... and at very least set the oiler so it is on max oil permanently.
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
I dont think you need to split the case to do any oil system service on an 066? Only messed with a couple so i could be wrong.
The pump comes out after removing the clutch. The adjusting screw is steel and the pump body is aluminium, so you probably damaged the body. You can take the opportunity to get a high output pump. Some aftermarket pumps on Ebay claim to be high output but refer the standard output part number. If you go for AM make sure you get a real HO pump.
Am pumps are not always the best route to go as quality control is such as its a crap shoot whether they will perform up to OEM standards, oil output may be less than desirable. The others are correct, no need to split cases to replace the oil pump and or lines, they are all external accessible outside the crankcase. Best bet is to use an new OEM pump and line if needed. I have had zero good results with AM rubber fuel and oil lines.
Thankyou very much for your replies. Im taking from Eric's comment that screw adjuster is actually on the pump itself and that i damaged the pump...not the casing... that's great news. It's fairly likely it was a cheap pump... i Honestly do not remember, but it was not purchased locally and at the time i did not know about the large varying part and price/quality out there. I probably just thought i was "getting a Pump" at that time and that there was very little difference , one from the next.
As for the lines....
Does one take sturdy forceps to remove the oil feed tube from the inside of the tank? Is that how its done? I remember changing the pump itself... that was not too bad. I'd really like to get a high output pump.... this saw is a true menace to wood, and typically im doing firewood which is horrible for its drying effect.
As for the lines....
Does one take sturdy forceps to remove the oil feed tube from the inside of the tank? Is that how its done? I remember changing the pump itself... that was not too bad. I'd really like to get a high output pump.... this saw is a true menace to wood, and typically im doing firewood which is horrible for its drying effect.
If the pump body is O.K. you can just replace the guts with the HO parts.
After you remove the oil pump the rubber pickup line and filter will come out very easily, fingers most times or a set of needle nose pliers will pull it out no problem.
The stop is a cast on boss on the body. It keeps the steel travel adjust screw from turning too far. If the screw isn't stopping then you probably have broken the boss off the pump body. The steel travel adjuster is unlikely to break first.
A minor thing but be sure the oil hole in the saw lines up with the one on the bar..
drf255
BAD CAD
A few points.
You don’t need to split the case, the pickup line pulls right out once you remove the pump. It’s at the lower R side when you are looking at the Case/clutch area.
Pretty sure the pumps are made of Magnesium, like the saw case is. Found this out the hard way, when I tried to tig weld a stop on one. It doesn’t act like aluminum.
Sounds like you broke the stop on your oil pump. It’s still useable if you did. Max and min are in the same axis, either 0 or 90* as before, just need to be more careful.
The pumps rarely fail. Check the worm gear, the case pump to bar passage, the feed line, the bar inlet and the little gasket on the output side. If you neglected to put it in, you’ll have oil everywhere, but little on bar.
You don’t need to split the case, the pickup line pulls right out once you remove the pump. It’s at the lower R side when you are looking at the Case/clutch area.
Pretty sure the pumps are made of Magnesium, like the saw case is. Found this out the hard way, when I tried to tig weld a stop on one. It doesn’t act like aluminum.
Sounds like you broke the stop on your oil pump. It’s still useable if you did. Max and min are in the same axis, either 0 or 90* as before, just need to be more careful.
The pumps rarely fail. Check the worm gear, the case pump to bar passage, the feed line, the bar inlet and the little gasket on the output side. If you neglected to put it in, you’ll have oil everywhere, but little on bar.
drf255
BAD CAD
#1
It’s like a 3mm thick slice of runner tubing that seals the pump to the case where it pushes oil through the cast-in passage to the bar pad.
Easy to miss/forget, and then the bar won’t oil but there will be oil dripping out of the clutch area.
It’s like a 3mm thick slice of runner tubing that seals the pump to the case where it pushes oil through the cast-in passage to the bar pad.
Easy to miss/forget, and then the bar won’t oil but there will be oil dripping out of the clutch area.
Ok. that's betty interesting about that seal. I have another saw a 272 that pukes oil all over the ground instead of the bar. This one however does not kick out much oil at all. Even when you have the bar and chain removed ... and you are looking at the output from the passageway... It's nothing. At this point though it's evident i need to replace the (likely) Chinese AM oiler i put in. Because i snapped the adj. screw... So I'll get those parts in a few days. Thanks so much for all the great help and pointers everyone! Wow. Shi impressed by that.
