Stihl 066 wont start after carb rebuild

[Baddboyy21]

I have an 066 that I am working on. It ran very poorly when I got it. I checked compression, its good. Did a vacuum and pressure test. Those are both good. Checked sparked and that's good. So I figured the carb needed cleaned.

I got a K15-WJ kit. I opened up the carb and it was pretty dirty. A lot of saw dust inside it. I replaced everything except the welch plugs.

I can not get it to start now. It' seems like it may be flooding. If you take out the spark plug and pull the starter gas mist comes out the spark plug every pull.

Could it be a bad vent? There were also two different fuel pump diaphragms in the kit. I replaced it with the one that looked the same. I uploaded a pic of the exact kit I bought from dssjms. I used the one that's kind of mesh type material. The other is more like a rubber.

What type of vent system does it use? I just see a white plastic barrel with a clear plastic hose coming out. I don't see that little screw that's usually in the clear vent tube.

 

[blsnelling]

The tank vent will have no affect on it starting and idling. That only becomes an issue when fuel demand is high and a vacuum is created in the tank.

 

[Baddboyy21]

I used both the existing inlet needle, metering lever and spring and also tried it with the new one. Nothing changed with that either.

 

[HarleyT]

Look at the needle seat, it may have some crud or damage. Hold it up to a light and look through the passage. Try polishing the seat with a q-tip and baking soda.

 

[SEAM]

Did you adjust the height of the new metering lever? If too high the valve will not close and cause the engine to flood...

 

[Baddboyy21]

Did you adjust the height of the new metering lever? If too high the valve will not close and cause the engine to flood...

No, I didn't adjust it. How do you do that? I did use the original one that was in the carb and tried that too.

 

[SEAM]

The easiest way to pinpoint the problem would be using a proven carb off another 066 or using your carb on another 066...
Also, like HarleyT said, check the needle seat. It sounds like your carburetor is leaking fuel flooding the engine. One way to check:
- remove carb from saw
- connect a suitable hose to the carburetor's fuel inlet
- apply pressure at the free hose end (just blow into it if you have no pump)
There should be no air going through

To make this visible you can also remove the metering cover and diaphragm from the carb and spray some oil (WD 40) into the chamber recess. If there are bubbles when blowing into the hose the valve/seat is leaking.

 

[Ozhoo]

Say hello to my little friend...

 

[Baddboyy21]

I have an 064 that's running. I know they aren't exactly the same model carb. Will that work for testing purposes?

 

[HarleyT]

Yes

 

[Baddboyy21]

That seems like the easiest test. The only other thing I can think of is the needles are out of adjustment. They still have the limiter caps on though.

 

[revelstoked]

Check the order of the gaskets and diaphragms

 

[Baddboyy21]

Any idea what the height should be on the metering lever? It looked level when I opened the carb originally.

 

[Baddboyy21]

Check the order of the gaskets and diaphragms

I have that in the correct order. Fuel pump diaphragm on the carb block then gasket.

 

[blsnelling]

I have that in the correct order. Fuel pump diaphragm on the carb block then gasket.

That's your problem. It's carb body, gasket, then diaphragm. If you put the diaphragm first, you will flood the saw horribly.

 

[Baddboyy21]

That's your problem. It's carb body, gasket, then diaphragm. If you put the diaphragm first, you will flood the saw horribly.

The Fuel Pump diaphragm (not the round one) should have a gasket first? I have the metering diaphragm with the carb body, gasket, then metering diaphragm. The fuel pump one, I have the carb body, diaphragm, then gasket.

 

[blsnelling]

We're talking about the metering side of the carb.

 

[Baddboyy21]

We're talking about the metering side of the carb.

Ok. Then I have it correct. Carb body, gasket, diaphragm.

 

[drf255]

Pull the flywheel and check the key.

You could have a sheared key, or more commonly, a dual slot flywheel installed incorrectly.

If you have compression, some fuel, and spark (at the right time) the engine should pop.

It's possible the prior owner installed the flywheel wrong. There are many many combos of flywheels and coils for the 064/066 that don't all interchange (from what I understand). There's an informative thread on "the other site" by @Definitive Dave that illustrates them all.

 

[spudulike]

Make sure the metering needle has it's spring fitted correctly as if it isn't, the needle will leak and flood. If you can, put pressure on the fuel inlet union and see if the carb leaks. Try this with and without the metering diaphragm in place to make sure the assembled carb will still hold back fuel. It sounds like the carb isn't holding the fuel back and that will be the needle leaking or the metering arm being too high.