Stihl Chain ??

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JimiLL

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I was told years back by a guy at the stihl dealership that the cutter angle is supposed to be on the same angle of the hash marks at the end of the tooth.

I looked today at a new chain and it seems they are indeed not at the same angle, the hash mark is closer to 35* while the cutter is at about 30*.

What gives??
 
I was told years back by a guy at the stihl dealership that the cutter angle is supposed to be on the same angle of the hash marks at the end of the tooth.

I looked today at a new chain and it seems they are indeed not at the same angle, the hash mark is closer to 35* while the cutter is at about 30*.

What gives??

Don't know, I had a new rs chain in my hand a few weeks ago that was poorly ground, it had way too much hook. I personally like 25° top plate angle.
 
Andy, what is the upside of 25* over say 30 or 35* top plate angle? Trying to learn since it's easy enough to change. (I cut standing dead oak) Thanks, DW

I'm not Andy, but it will stay sharp longer. The downside is that the cutting may be a little slower, as long as both are really sharp.

It is a trade-off, there is no universal answer.
 
I'm not Andy, but it will stay sharp longer. The downside is that the cutting may be a little slower, as long as both are really sharp.

It is a trade-off, there is no universal answer.
+1 - SawTroll beat me to the posting..

It's just that.."pick your poison"..most folks stay in the middle at 30°.
Mid-ground between 25° and a few aggressive at 35°
:cheers:
J2F
 
I think about 31* on my sharpener is where I run it. 35* is just too much.

Those has marks look to be at abbout 35*.

Im running RSC, 3/8 .50g
 
I think about 31* on my sharpener is where I run it. 35* is just too much.

Those has marks look to be at abbout 35*.

Im running RSC, 3/8 .50g

I run mine at 35. But if your rakers are set a little deeper, I guess we could end up at nearly the same effect? Your chips may be a little thicker while I produce more if that was the case.
 
Howdy,
The greater the angle on the tooth the wider your kerf will be, and also more power demand on your saw.
Regards
Gregg
 
Top Plate Angle

I'm not Andy, but it will stay sharp longer. The downside is that the cutting may be a little slower, as long as both are really sharp.

It is a trade-off, there is no universal answer.

+1 - SawTroll beat me to the posting..

It's just that.."pick your poison"..most folks stay in the middle at 30°.
Mid-ground between 25° and a few aggressive at 35°
:cheers:
J2F

I haven't cut any softwood in years, so I usually keep my chains at 25, it is slower cutting, but less down time sharpening. Looking to score some Full Skip Chipper! If anyone has a lead, holler at me!
 
Look closely

I was told years back by a guy at the stihl dealership that the cutter angle is supposed to be on the same angle of the hash marks at the end of the tooth.

I looked today at a new chain and it seems they are indeed not at the same angle, the hash mark is closer to 35* while the cutter is at about 30*.

What gives??

You will see that not all the hash marks mimic the angle of the top plate. I too believe they are 'witness' marks and to be used as a guide for the 30 degree top plate angle, but not all of them are correct on a given loop of chain. Somewhat frustrating if you ask me.
 
What does the top plate angle have to do with hook?

Too much of either will make the chain grabby and not hold an edge long.

Andy, what is the upside of 25* over say 30 or 35* top plate angle? Trying to learn since it's easy enough to change. (I cut standing dead oak) Thanks, DW

Smoothness and durability. Now if the angles are too shallow the chain won't want to bite as much, making it a slow cutting chain.
 
Howdy,
The greater the angle on the tooth the wider your kerf will be, and also more power demand on your saw.
Regards
Gregg

Thats a good point never really thought of it that way

I never thought of it that way either. It makes sense, but there will be several forces that works against too much of it actually happening. Worn (or sloppy) bar rails and a loose chain tension will likely aggrivate the situation.
 
Wider Kerf?

Howdy,
The greater the angle on the tooth the wider your kerf will be, and also more power demand on your saw.
Regards
Gregg

I'm no Engineer but how does the kerf get any wider? :msp_confused: The Teeth are set as is, just looks like they are either gonna biter harder or easier depending on the angle you file into em. But they can't reach out and grab more wood left or right.
 
I'm no Engineer but how does the kerf get any wider? :msp_confused: The Teeth are set as is, just looks like they are either gonna biter harder or easier depending on the angle you file into em. But they can't reach out and grab more wood left or right.

I believe the larger angle will make each cutter "steer" more outwards - the question is if it really is allowed to go that way?

One thing that seems clear to me is that a larger distance between the cutters (skip or larger pitch) will make it more likely.
 
Last edited:
The tooth tapers from front to back down the inside. A shallower angle (I file at 25 degrees on chisel chain) means a wider tooth given the same length vs say 35 degrees.

Yes, but not wider (from the centre of the chain) on the "leading side" - and that leading side will (mostly) be the opposite one on the next cutter. If those "points" are allowed to move a little outwards, it will end up like GD posted.
 

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