Stihl E and ES Guide Bar Weights....

[litefoot]

Anyone have any data on this?

Nikko wanted me to ask so he can "balance" his saws.....ok, it's me, I wanna know

 

[2dogs]

The ES is the heavier of the two. The ES is a good bar for a good price. I have no love for the E bar. Exact weights, nope, don't care.

 

[sawinredneck]

Buy the ES, "You, happy!"

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

ES feels no more than 25% heavier. I run the Rollmatic E bars in 20" or shorter but in the longer bars I like the stiffness of the ES bars.
I ran a Rollmatic E bar in 25" length this summer and it seemed to "wonder" in the cut. It felt like it was following the wood instead of where you you wanted it to go. I'm working my way through a bottle of whiskey tonight so ignore my jumbled words.

 

[almondgt]

Weight difference is in the ounces so.... Non issue for me. Both bars are good, one is better and cost more $$

 

[yo2001]

I don't mind the E bar another than the fact it wears fast and real sharp. ES seems never wear out.

 

[litefoot]

ES feels no more than 25% heavier. I run the Rollmatic E bars in 20" or shorter but in the longer bars I like the stiffness of the ES bars.
I ran a Rollmatic E bar in 25" length this summer and it seemed to "wonder" in the cut. It felt like it was following the wood instead of where you you wanted it to go. I'm working my way through a bottle of whiskey tonight so ignore my jumbled words.

That's kind of what I was thinking too. ES for anything over 20" and E for <20". The validity of advertised powerhead weights is always debated down to the ounce around here. But guide bar weights aren't discussed when they can be a significant percentage of the total weight. For instance, a Sugihara 25" bar weighs about the same as a 20" ES without, I presume, losing much in quality. The reach of a 25" bar and the weight of a 20" bar. See what I mean?

So it's a valid, if not altogether uninteresting (for some) discussion. I'm a backpacker, so this weight thing intrigues me. I guess I'll have to wait for our Norwegian encylopaedia to wake up.:hmm3grin2orange:

Nikko wake up! There are "weighty" issues to be discussed here!

 

[SawTroll]

That's kind of what I was thinking too. ES for anything over 20" and E for <20". The validity of advertised powerhead weights is always debated down to the ounce around here. But guide bar weights aren't discussed when they can be a significant percentage of the total weight. For instance, a Sugihara 25" bar weighs about the same as a 20" ES without, I presume, losing much in quality. The reach of a 25" bar and the weight of a 20" bar. See what I mean?

So it's a valid, if not altogether uninteresting (for some) discussion. I'm a backpacker, so this weight thing intrigues me. I guess I'll have to wait for our Norwegian encylopaedia to wake up.:hmm3grin2orange:

Niko wake up! There are "weighty" issues to be discussed here!

Only one k in Niko please - Nikko is another member.....


I mostly use 20" and less, laminated bars - and really like the Rollomatic E, as it lighter than other laminated bars, and seem to hold up well.
Oregon Pro-Lite is notasibly heavier, and the Norwegian made Husky bars somewhere inbetween.

Regarding solid bars, I have only used Oregon Power-Match.
The only weight-related facts I know is that the Cannon/WoodsmanPro bars are a lot heavier than most others - on the other end of the scale, there is the Lightweight Oregons and the Sugiharas.

Weights on some bars are in the baileys catalog.


Remember that even though balancing the saw mostly are about keeping the weight up front down, it can go the other way as well, with very short bars.
To avoid rear heaviness, you may need a heavier built type of bar than you normally use, to balance the saw......

 

[litefoot]

Thanks for the input there Saint Niko, and sorry about the spelling. Well looks like I'm going to make a trip to my Stihl dealer with scale in hand. I'll report back.