Stihl file guide or Husky roller file gauge?

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I have found the chain needs to be real tight or it will lift as you file. But once dialed in the chain will be very sharp.

I would like to find a stihl fg 2 but I then wonder if I should just buy a grinder for a little more.

gg
Depends how many chains you sharpen at a go. I have both, I prefer the result from the fg 2, but anymore than 2 or 3 chains at a go and i get sick of it. With the grinder I can do a big stack of chain.
I frequently grind chains for the other guys and use the fg 2 on a chain or two for myself!
I have no doubt I could use the grinder better - but I'm very happy with the way the chains come out of the fg 2. I have used the fg 2 to fix really bad chain - but it isn't fun.
 
Husky roller guide in the field for touch-ups. Grandberg back at home in the garage. Grinder for nasty beat-up chains only.
 
Stihl file guide with the chain in a chain vise. I have tried the others and no joy!!!

Lots of light, some magnification, light strokes at the end of the sharpening. Save edge files.
 
Free Hand...
I agree 100%. I have a Stihl USG Grinder I hardley ever use, several guides, a clamp on guide from Italy. Tried them all but nothing beats a handle and a single file freehanded with the proper angle, pitch, and proper pressure applied at the points needed. With a 3/8 chain I will use a 7/32 save edge to correct angle and pitch and then.switch to a 13/64 to finish and then use a depth gauge and hand file to set drag
 
Would be an interesting test at a gtg having a bunch of different filing guides and a bunch of brand new chains and each chain gets 5 strokes with the file system. And then see which performs the best. All on the same saw and same wood.

Personally I use a few different models. The Husqvarna roller guide, the Bahco/Dolmar roller guide and a el cheapo electric chain grinder. I like them all, although the bacho can be a little finacy on new chain, but price wise the generic Husqvarna(Mc Culloch/Universal/etc.) roller guide set can't be beat. For the set (roller guide, 2 round files, 1 flat file and one grip) I pay 19,50€! Fot that money I don't even have anything from Stihl.

7
 
I like the basic Stihl (Oregon or whatever) file guide and a Carlton File-O-Plate for adjusting the rakers. The basic file holder with the angles on it is all you need for a good sharpening job. It is fast and easy. The File-0-Plate is a great tool for filing the rakers.

I have no use for grinders. They eat chains too rapidly.
 
I like freehand, with a file handle with angel indicaters, and a sharp eye on what I am doing.

The roller guides are nice for "mass filing" on damaged chain.

i know there are a few, very few, guys who know how to use a file but, all american males think, know, they can file a chain and play the drums. it's a wonderful feeling but it doesn't cut wood or make music. hombres frequently bring me chains to rescue. the angles are wrong. every plate is a different length. the depth gauges are fubar like everything else. they make more smoke than chips. they'd be better off tossing their files and buying some new chains, which is usually what they do because after cleaning everything up there's not much meat left on the bone. clamp-on file guides like the grandberg or oregon are problematic too. since there is no good way to rotate the file with each stroke. the file dulls quickly and becomes useless. for that matter, using a grinder requires a lot of skill and an acute eye too. my advice, buy a roll of chain, a breaker and spinner. use your old chain as concrete reenforcement. it's great around fence posts.
 
Whatever works for you.

The flat STIHL/Oregon/etc. file guides support the file from ABOVE and hold it at the correct depth (20% of file diameter above the top plate).

The Husqvarna roller guides support the file from BELOW, which should position it at the correct height, but this can vary with the chain and how worn back the cutter is.

The flat guides work with any chain that use that size file. The Husqvarna guides do not fit all chains (unless you modify them), and you need different ones for some chains (e.g. narrow kerf).

These file guides control depth only. BOTH require the user to still control the horizontal and vertical file angles.

The Granberg type jigs mentioned fix all three (depth, horizontal and vertical file angles). I find it easy to rotate the files in these - just loosen the wing nuts and rotate the file 1/4 turn.

All methods take a little skill and understanding. Bottom line is still: whatever works for you.

Philbert
 
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