Stihl MS180 - High Engine Vibration?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
@blsnelling , Thanks for the reminders. I think I remember seeing these a while ago. What is the best thing to use as a piston stop? I normally use rope jammed into the cylinder. I am assuming that the Stihl piston stop put the hole in the piston in the photo. What bent the rod?

Piston stop for what? I work on all brands of saws, I don't even own a piston stop.
 
Let's face it...the proper repair for these saws is a swift chuck into the trash can when something inevitably goes wrong with them. They are disposable tools...run 'em til they die and buy a new one...wash, rinse, repeat.
 
@blsnelling , Thanks for the reminders. I think I remember seeing these a while ago. What is the best thing to use as a piston stop? I normally use rope jammed into the cylinder. I am assuming that the Stihl piston stop put the hole in the piston in the photo. What bent the rod?
A rope and a scrench bent that rod. Only use the designated piston stop from Stihl. It will put the rod at the correct angle to keep it from bending.

A plastic piston stop is what broke the piston. So again, only use the correct Stihl tool.
 
Wow! Talk about little saw hatred! I sell +- 200 of those little bastards every sales season with little or no issues. I start every single one of them and run them all. I can not recall this vibration issue that is spoken of. When it is on sale for 249 ( woodsman case, spare chain and a hat ) or 199 ( just the saw ) I sell them easily and would expect from the treasure trove of learned folk on here to be bombarded when them coming back blown to bits. But shockingly they do not! YES there have been issues, seeing as I have gotten them back flooded but this happens usually once as the customer was not paying attention to the starting demonstration. Realistically there are quite a few of these little saws out there, humming along cutting up branches and limbs happily. I often see 017's come in for a pre season tune up, so they have been known to hold up for a while ( 10 plus years ). I went over to my saw shelf and saw my personal 017 sitting amongst my 440, 460, 361's and alike and it seems to look ok in that lot. :D

But in all seriousness we do not rebuild them, whats the point? its like a guy wanting to put in a $ 10 battery in a $ 9.00 watch.
 
A rope and a scrench bent that rod. Only use the designated piston stop from Stihl. It will put the rod at the correct angle to keep it from bending.

A plastic piston stop is what broke the piston. So again, only use the correct Stihl tool.
I actually have the correct Stihl stop tool. I have run into issues when using it as it tends to slip if you don't have a third hand to hold it in place. This is why I usually use as much 1/4" nylon rope as I can stuff into the cylinder and not get caught in the exhaust port. This lowers the piston and reduces the stress on the rod.

As you recommended I tried the tool again and it worked. I can see no obvious damage to the clutch or FW that would account for the vibration. It will be interesting to see if the vibration is still there once I clean up all of the oil/sawdust crud.

BTW, there are two ends to the stop tool. One end has wide "wings" on the shaft and the other end doesn't. What are the different applications for each end?
 
Just calling them like I see them...they have their use but it would be hard to deny that their price does not equate to the quality and they are a rather crude, cheap chainsaw. As far as vibes go...maybe it's a harmonic specific to that saw that doesn't jive well with my hands and forearms...or ears for that matter...but I can't stand to run them. Same goes for a 250, 290, etc.

Sorry to derail your thread with Husky fanboy jibberish, lol.
 
Wow! Talk about little saw hatred! I sell +- 200 of those little bastards every sales season with little or no issues. I start every single one of them and run them all. I can not recall this vibration issue that is spoken of. When it is on sale for 249 ( woodsman case, spare chain and a hat ) or 199 ( just the saw ) I sell them easily and would expect from the treasure trove of learned folk on here to be bombarded when them coming back blown to bits. But shockingly they do not! YES there have been issues, seeing as I have gotten them back flooded but this happens usually once as the customer was not paying attention to the starting demonstration. Realistically there are quite a few of these little saws out there, humming along cutting up branches and limbs happily. I often see 017's come in for a pre season tune up, so they have been known to hold up for a while ( 10 plus years ). I went over to my saw shelf and saw my personal 017 sitting amongst my 440, 460, 361's and alike and it seems to look ok in that lot. :D

But in all seriousness we do not rebuild them, whats the point? its like a guy wanting to put in a $ 10 battery in a $ 9.00 watch.
I've owned 2 of the 170s. I kept 1 and gave the other to a friend to use clearing fence lines on his farm. They have been good little saws. We both like the light weight and ease of operation. Bought used, the little guys have been running 6 years or more for us and still going. We both have a variety of larger saws, but the little guys are the ones that seem to get the most use.
 
Well, here is an update and some photos. I had a chance to clean everything up and noticed a few things. The vibration was severe enough that the plating on the barrel of the oil pump was abraded away down to the brass. This is in spite of the engine being VERY securely fastened to the main housing. This indicates that the engine was moving enough that the oil pump "guide" on the crankcase was contacting the pump.

Here is @HarleyT requested photo of the vibration welded peg on the clutch cover. I had to use a screwdriver to pry off the cover.

IMG_5174.JPG IMG_5165.JPG

Anybody see anything wrong with the clutch in the following photo?

IMG_5163.JPG
 

Latest posts

Back
Top