huskystihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice work by the way! How did you make the slits in it?
Stihl MS180 MS200 MS211 Comparison
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Trigger-Time
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Trigger-Time
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2000ssm6
Stihl User
This vid is from another thread but it shows the torque the 211 has. About 9 tanks of fuel at the time.
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I agree with huskystihl, this 211 is pretty sweet to be a cheapy. While the 200 may be a better saw for zipping off small limbs, the 200 doesn't have the torque of the 211 for full 16" bar cuts.
[URL=http://s574.photobucket.com/albums/ss187/2000ssm6/?action=view¤t=MOV00383.flv]
[/URL]I agree with huskystihl, this 211 is pretty sweet to be a cheapy. While the 200 may be a better saw for zipping off small limbs, the 200 doesn't have the torque of the 211 for full 16" bar cuts.
Stihls_are_best
ArboristSite Lurker
IMO, it takes less torque to make the cuts you are making than any other
cut you can make......wood cuts easiest with the grain, you just have to watch and make sure clutch cover does not get plugged up....and what wood are you splitting in video?..........200 has no problem with 16" bar
even in white oak.
Looks like basswood to me, close as it comes to butter. Steve
2000ssm6
Stihl User
The wood is sweetgum, a soft wood I believe. Making noodles is the hardest I've ever worked a saw. My 044 that pulls a 32" well felling and bucking, doesn't do so good when pulling noodles. I usually drop to a 25" for it and the 460, both saws are ported. If I did more long bar noodling, a 880 would be on my shopping list. It just seems to me, that type of cutting takes more torque than hp. I could be worng though.
Stihls_are_best
ArboristSite Lurker
The wood is sweetgum, a soft wood I believe. Making noodles is the hardest I've ever worked a saw. My 044 that pulls a 32" well felling and bucking, doesn't do so good when pulling noodles. I usually drop to a 25" for it and the 460, both saws are ported. If I did more long bar noodling, a 880 would be on my shopping list. It just seems to me, that type of cutting takes more torque than hp. I could be worng though.
IMO, cutting anything with the grain cuts easier than across the grain.
Which way is it easier to whittle a piece of wood with a knife, with or across the grain?
Also, if cross cutting a 16" dia log you are cutting 201 sq. inches
Ripping that same 16" dia, 16" long you are cutting 256 sq. in
that is = to your 16" dia plus a 7"X7" sq. beam.
PS not trying to start anything, JIMO
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SawTroll
Information Collector
Seems to work well, just a lot slower than I would like - I don't see the point of using such a small saw for noodling........
Stihls_are_best
ArboristSite Lurker
Seems to work well, just a lot slower than I would like - I don't see the point of using such a small saw for noodling........
True.......but,
If it's the only saw you own, have no log splitter and it's Elm or some knotty pieces of wood, it's nice to know it can do it.
BarkBuster20
Addicted to ArboristSite
uhm whatever you may think about the grain of wood its harder on a saw to be noodling thats just common sense. yes whittling is done with the grain. but if it was easier on saws to noodle wouldnt people be using smaller saws to mill.
Stihls_are_best
ArboristSite Lurker
I take it you have never done any CSM.
Milling you are cutting end grain.........BIG difference than cutting with grain, Common seance............Hmmmmmmm
IMO easiest to hardest......with grain (from side of log), cross cutting and end grain cutting (milling)
again IMO only thing that may make cutting from side of log harder, is you have trouble with long chip clearness.
and clogging of clutch cover and operator has some control of that buy what
angle you hold bar to log.
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Thanks for all the reports on the new saws.
So I looked at a MS211 at a dealer, and compared it to a MS250 on the shelf (we have several 210's and 250's). I noticed that the trigger was harder to pull and the cover is more awkward to replace.
Is this because of the strato-charge (harder trigger), and the centrifugal dust separator (tighter fitting cover)?
Philbert
So I looked at a MS211 at a dealer, and compared it to a MS250 on the shelf (we have several 210's and 250's). I noticed that the trigger was harder to pull and the cover is more awkward to replace.
Is this because of the strato-charge (harder trigger), and the centrifugal dust separator (tighter fitting cover)?
Philbert
huskystihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
The cover is no big deal but the trigger design is completely different and never loosens up either. You get used to it. There is really no comparrison in the 210 performance wise though.
Fuel Capacity
So did the fuel tank really go from 470cc on the MS210 to 280cc on the MS211?
At first, I though that this just meant I would have to refuel more often, or that they took up tank space to make more room for something else. Then I noticed that the bar oil reservoir only went down from 200cc to 180cc.
Since they usually try to balance fuel and bar oil consumption, does this mean that the new saw is that much more fuel efficient?
Just curious.
Philbert
So did the fuel tank really go from 470cc on the MS210 to 280cc on the MS211?
At first, I though that this just meant I would have to refuel more often, or that they took up tank space to make more room for something else. Then I noticed that the bar oil reservoir only went down from 200cc to 180cc.
Since they usually try to balance fuel and bar oil consumption, does this mean that the new saw is that much more fuel efficient?
Just curious.
Philbert
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
Over a year later using the 3 little saws MS180, MS200 and MS211.
I like the MS200 the best, I have had zero problems with 180 and 200.
The 211 is leaking bar oil where oil hose comes out of oil tank.
It's not just a few drips overnight, it puddles overnight. As soon as
I take the time to fix the leak it will be traded off. Power wise all
three are very very close. In video cutting a limb off a White Oak
that I was going to mill. But after getting into it, it is bad in the middle.
I forgot to put 6 tooth sprocket on MS180, it's wearing a 7 tooth
and MS200 & MS211 have 6 tooth sprockets all 3 have 16" BC with .050 3/8 Picco.
I will try to get better video in some green 8 or 10 inch wood next time.
And a better video.
First up MS211 then MS180 and last MS200
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I like the MS200 the best, I have had zero problems with 180 and 200.
The 211 is leaking bar oil where oil hose comes out of oil tank.
It's not just a few drips overnight, it puddles overnight. As soon as
I take the time to fix the leak it will be traded off. Power wise all
three are very very close. In video cutting a limb off a White Oak
that I was going to mill. But after getting into it, it is bad in the middle.
I forgot to put 6 tooth sprocket on MS180, it's wearing a 7 tooth
and MS200 & MS211 have 6 tooth sprockets all 3 have 16" BC with .050 3/8 Picco.
I will try to get better video in some green 8 or 10 inch wood next time.
And a better video.
First up MS211 then MS180 and last MS200
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Which saw was second in the vid? It struggled a lot more to keep up revs. I'm surprised to see you're keeping the 180 over the 211.
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
180 was 2nd but it has a 7 tooth sprocket and others 6 tooth.
But the times I got 180 was just as fast as others.
Edit: I may have posted wrong Vid, first vid I done 180 was way to rich running like 12,000 rpm.
I will check when I get home.
TT
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The tune sounded fine. I've not run a 211, but from everything I've read, it sounds like it would be way more saw than a 180. Just curious how you make your decision on which one to keep.
