Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Hello Any Stihl Chainsaw Mechanics out there:
I think I have dove way off in the deep end in this project…and let me just say, I am frustrated beyond the point of recovery!
I have a Stihl MS290 that was given to me (junkyard special) as it had a scored piston and cylinder. I purchased an aftermarket one (LilRedBarn.net). Also purchased a pressure/vacuum gauge as well as a new 1/4” Proto Torque Wrench.
And this is where my problems began…
After successfully dismantling everything, I got the new piston in and started torquing it up to 40 in/lbs (first run) it seemed a little tight (but no torque click). Tightened just a little more….little more…CRAP! Turns out this brand new !$@“!!!?&! Proto Torque Wrench is GARBAGE! It failed to click on any setting! Of course, as my luck goes, it fricking partially strips out (1) of the base threads (there are a total of (4) Base Bolts). It seemed to get a partial bite…but once the Dirko Glue dried and I tested it….FAILED around the seam where that partial stripped bolt is.
Ok, so, I noticed that the Stihl Bolt sticks out just far enough (and has room) to install a locknut on the bolt…BUT OF COURSE…Stihl has their own proprietary bolt pattern. I did find one (Locking Nut….not Nylock) that halfassed might work. So, went ahead and glued & cinched everything down….waited 8 hours…Pressure tested.
So, for the FOURTH time fighting to get the thing to test…FAILS…I am about ready to call this thing a parts pile. What is the big secret here that I am missing? Is it really that difficult to get a pressure test to pass on these Stihl Saws?
Question #1. What is the proper way to install the Dirko Glue? Do you put a single bead in the groove of the base plate? Or, do you put a bead on both? Or do you put a bead on both and smooth everything out? Differnt videos show differnt ways…none of which gets me a passing pressure test.
Question #2. How long should I let the Dirko Dry? Hours? Days? Months?
Question #3: I am tempted to drill out the partial stripped hole of the cyclinder head and install a regular stainless bolt with locknut. Has anyone tried that before?
Any other tips on rebuilding a MS290? I read in here where someone had a nightmare trying to get a pressure/vac test as well and had to re-glue several times. I am going to give it one more try…and if it fails….then I’m done with that headache and I will have spare parts for my running MS290…
I think I have dove way off in the deep end in this project…and let me just say, I am frustrated beyond the point of recovery!
I have a Stihl MS290 that was given to me (junkyard special) as it had a scored piston and cylinder. I purchased an aftermarket one (LilRedBarn.net). Also purchased a pressure/vacuum gauge as well as a new 1/4” Proto Torque Wrench.
And this is where my problems began…
After successfully dismantling everything, I got the new piston in and started torquing it up to 40 in/lbs (first run) it seemed a little tight (but no torque click). Tightened just a little more….little more…CRAP! Turns out this brand new !$@“!!!?&! Proto Torque Wrench is GARBAGE! It failed to click on any setting! Of course, as my luck goes, it fricking partially strips out (1) of the base threads (there are a total of (4) Base Bolts). It seemed to get a partial bite…but once the Dirko Glue dried and I tested it….FAILED around the seam where that partial stripped bolt is.
Ok, so, I noticed that the Stihl Bolt sticks out just far enough (and has room) to install a locknut on the bolt…BUT OF COURSE…Stihl has their own proprietary bolt pattern. I did find one (Locking Nut….not Nylock) that halfassed might work. So, went ahead and glued & cinched everything down….waited 8 hours…Pressure tested.
So, for the FOURTH time fighting to get the thing to test…FAILS…I am about ready to call this thing a parts pile. What is the big secret here that I am missing? Is it really that difficult to get a pressure test to pass on these Stihl Saws?
Question #1. What is the proper way to install the Dirko Glue? Do you put a single bead in the groove of the base plate? Or, do you put a bead on both? Or do you put a bead on both and smooth everything out? Differnt videos show differnt ways…none of which gets me a passing pressure test.
Question #2. How long should I let the Dirko Dry? Hours? Days? Months?
Question #3: I am tempted to drill out the partial stripped hole of the cyclinder head and install a regular stainless bolt with locknut. Has anyone tried that before?
Any other tips on rebuilding a MS290? I read in here where someone had a nightmare trying to get a pressure/vac test as well and had to re-glue several times. I am going to give it one more try…and if it fails….then I’m done with that headache and I will have spare parts for my running MS290…