Stihl MS880 Magnum ?

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Lindsay

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Hey all. My first thread. I've got a 460 mag and i am wanting to get a big saw for a few projects and a bit of a show off (mainly clearing for firewood). I need a saw to run a 36" bar with authority in hardwood. What im looking for is opinions on the 880 magnum. Ive searched threads and it does'nt get a good wrap compared to the 660. The saw will be log bucking only no mill work.
So if you have/had one and could give me some advice that would be great.
thanks
 
I use my 088 Magnum for felling, and bucking. The Jred 920 I use for milling when needed. For no other reason than the 088 starts fast, and weighs less and has a better muffler (quieter) and a chain-brake.

We have a five foot bar for it, and a couple of four footers. It does a hell of a great job.

Kevin
 
Around here, it seems like those who do the work run a 660 for a 36" bar if there is a real functional point to the saw. Further, there is an argument that if all you need is 36", a 660 stock or ported, will do it well and be usable.

If you want an 880 because it is an 880, take a look at one of the recent and numerous posts about the assorted aspects of ownership.

Then go to Youtube.com and look at Slinger's 880 snag video and realize what fun you could have.
 
How big a boy are ya? :) I know I wouldn't wanna pack an 880 all day long...

To be brutally honest an 880 is usually overkill... That 660 will handle a 36" bar in hardwoods... :)

Gary

:agree2: It can work the hell out of you. I need a 044 or a 660 for most felling, but don't as of yet own them.
 
Heavy, expensive, but if you are bucking a lot of BIG wood it does very well what it was designed to do. (I won't make you feel bad and tell you that the 066 should handle a 36" bar with skip chain in hardwood)
 
The 90cc class saws will turn a 36"(+) in hardwood okay, but not with authority like the 120cc class saws do. The guys are right, the 120cc class saws are not something you want to work all day long, but then again I haven't found I've ever needed one for all that long either. If you want to "show off" you'll want the big dog.

With that said, you might want to also consider the 3120xp if you're hung up on getting a big saw since the Stihl bars for the 880 wont swap over to the smaller Stihl saws. I've got both here (3120/880) and they are pretty much equal in power, but the 3120 is smoother, plus it has an additional manual oiler which comes in really handy with big bars and milling. The 3120 is also a little cheaper. The 880 is a great saw, but I think the 3120xp is the better value. Either one is a kick-azz saw which will get some respect from the locals. ;)
 
Does anyone have a need for an 880 in an all day application? I would love to see pictures of that!

The 880 vs. 3120 is another thread for the ages.

Lots of talk about how in less than 36" of wood the 880 won't pull away from the 660 significantly, anyone have side by side experience/reports/pictures/funny stories?
 
Does anyone have a need for an 880 in an all day application? I would love to see pictures of that!

The 880 vs. 3120 is another thread for the ages.

Lots of talk about how in less than 36" of wood the 880 won't pull away from the 660 significantly, anyone have side by side experience/reports/pictures/funny stories?

I only muffler modded my 390. I run an 8 pin rim and weigh a good bit. Even my fat a$$ can't slow down a 28" bar buried in some healthy softwood. So, I doubt I could do it on an 880 either. With that said, my 390 lacks the torque of the bigger 880, so I couldn't see the larger saw being faster, until you get into some mega trees.

Unless you're pooping muscle, milling or cutting down 8' wide trees every day all day, I wouldn't bother.
 
I mean to say it has been covered ad nauseum.

What does an 880 with a 36" bar do that a 660 won't?

Beat the operator, cost more, be cooler?

FWIW, I am trying to justify one too.
 
I mean to say it has been covered ad nauseum.

What does an 880 with a 36" bar do that a 660 won't?

Beat the operator, cost more, be cooler?

FWIW, I am trying to justify one too.

1) MILL big wood


2) You can run an 8 pin and get more chain speed than your 660 in big wood..
 
just to add a couple of things - aussie hardwoods really are hard. It may be a 660 wouldn't pull a 36" with authority in the wood he's cutting. I know a guy who runs a lucas mill and he uses a 660 with a 24" and reckons it's about right. My uncle's been using a Jred 111S for the past 20 years and reckons the 30" was max he'd run. He's now running an 084 and reckons 30" isn't too small...

Do you know someone with either? Running a good stock one in what you want it for is the way to go IMO. And I'm guessing you'd want an 880 if you're burying a 36", otherwise the 660.
 
Am running 66 with 25" ....have to agree with your uncle ,tis about right in HW.
880 runs 36" nicely.
YES yes Andy 8 tooth 36 /42 " - nearly as good as hmm......beer on a hot day .
Was cutting up a dropped 24 > 28" Grey gum with a mate recently.
I used Dolmar 120 with 18" while my mate used 880 with 36" .....we kept level
for a while .....but he did pull away from me on the fifth cut ......I know I'm off track but I sure like them mid range Dolmars.......my mate wants to buy it.
Having the 880 ,for when you do need extra, is nice.
Mill 4 choice logs and sell it and it will nearly pay for itself.Or the right tree
job where its needed.......same.


Ah... BUT , all good runners go well with a sharp one. :) :givebeer:
 
I have a 084 and run a 36" bar most of the time. I don't use the saw a lot. It will run strong in 36" plus dry oak and cut much faster than my 460. I don't need the 084, but I sure like having it to use once in a while. After one or two tanks of fuel through the 084, I am due for my nap.
 
if he uses it enough he'll have'm;)
Yep, better start workin' out.

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