Hmm, if they made it more powerful, and lighter, I like the specs of 30% better fuel burn.
Specification | MS881 | MS880 |
---|---|---|
Power | 6.4 kW (8.7 bhp -see note) 2,800 rpm idle | 6.4 kW (8.58 bhp) at 8,500 rpm 11,000 rpm maximum 2,700 rpm idle |
Displacement | 121.6 cm³ | 121.6 cm³ (7.42 cu. in.) |
Power-to-weight ratio | 1.5 kg/kW | 1.5 kg/kW |
System weight unfueled with guide bar and chain | 12.57 / 13.23 / 14.24 kg | |
Powerhead Weight (dry, without bar or chain) | 9.9 kg | 9.85 kg (21.6 lbs) |
Guide Bar | 53 to 105 cm (21" to 42") | 43 to 150 cm (17" to 59") STIHL ROLLOMATIC® |
Sprocket | 7 Z teeth, ring sprocket (no 8-tooth) | 8-tooth for 3/8" (rim sprocket) 7-tooth for .404" (rim sprocket) |
Chain pitch | 0.404" RM, RS (no 3/8") | 0.404" RM, RS 3/8" RS |
Chain tensioning | Lateral | Lateral |
Chain Oil capacity | 700 cm³ | 700 cm³ (23.7 oz.) |
Oil pump | Adjustable | Adjustable |
Fuel Tank capacity | 1300 cm³ (1.3 L) | 1300 cm³ (44.0 oz.) |
Fuel Filler cap | Tool-free | Tool-free |
Air Filter | HD2 | HD2 |
Sound level Sound pressure level | 118 dB(A) 106 dB(A) | 116 dB(A) 103 dB(A) |
Anti vibration system | Standard | Standard |
Vibration values left/right | 8.9/8.9 m/s² | 8.9/8.9 m/s² |
Bumper spike | 2 Steel claws | 2 Steel claws |
Cylinder | Chrome |
Stihl: A direct replacement of the MS 880, the MS 881 is the most powerful chainsaw in the market with the highest displacement (121.6 cc) and engine power (6.4 kW).
MS 881 Bar Length 41"/105cm £1,824.00 (link) (about $2,360 U.S. Dollars, but not available in the U.S. as of 11/02/2020)
Note: The guide bar lengths, chain pitch, and "unusual" power output numbers are what Stihl is providing as of 11/02/2020.
Specification MS881 MS880 Power 6.4 kW (8.7 bhp -see note)
2,800 rpm idle6.4 kW (8.58 bhp) at 8,500 rpm
11,000 rpm maximum
2,700 rpm idleDisplacement 121.6 cm³ 121.6 cm³ (7.42 cu. in.) Power-to-weight ratio 1.5 kg/kW 1.5 kg/kW System weight unfueled with guide bar and chain 12.57 / 13.23 / 14.24 kg Powerhead Weight (dry, without bar or chain) 9.9 kg 9.85 kg (21.6 lbs) Guide Bar 53 to 105 cm (21" to 42") 43 to 150 cm (17" to 59")
STIHL ROLLOMATIC®Sprocket 7 Z teeth, ring sprocket
(no 8-tooth)8-tooth for 3/8" (rim sprocket)
7-tooth for .404" (rim sprocket)Chain pitch 0.404" RM, RS
(no 3/8")0.404" RM, RS
3/8" RSChain tensioning Lateral Lateral Chain Oil capacity 700 cm³ 700 cm³ (23.7 oz.) Oil pump Adjustable Adjustable Fuel Tank capacity 1300 cm³ (1.3 L) 1300 cm³ (44.0 oz.) Fuel Filler cap Tool-free Tool-free Air Filter HD2 HD2 Sound level
Sound pressure level118 dB(A)
106 dB(A)116 dB(A)
103 dB(A)Anti vibration system Standard Standard Vibration values left/right 8.9/8.9 m/s² 8.9/8.9 m/s² Bumper spike 2 Steel claws 2 Steel claws Cylinder Chrome
OWNER'S MANUAL (link)
I wonder how they came up with that. For me, standing up and being farther away from a long bar is far safer than having to get up-close and personal with a short bar. A long bar flips up (kicks back) slower than a short bar; for instance, an 18" bar rotates back at me far faster than a 42" bar. It's the same with a socket and ratchet: a short 3" stubby is fast, a 36" long ratchet is slow if the ends of both move at the same speed, and really, even if a guy were to go as fast as they could on a 36" long ratchet, a 3" stubby on a moderately loose nut is going to be faster without even trying.I know the reason the 661 is listed as a 32" vs. 36" on USA site is due to kickback testing, at least according to several dealers around here.
Same reason we can't get picco 3003 mount bars, and large tip standard 3/8" anymore. I hope we'll see an option for 3/8" in the future, it seems to cut faster on a mill, plus I get 1 extra board out of each decent log with 3/8"
I wonder how they came up with that. For me, standing up and being farther away from a long bar is far safer than having to get up-close and personal with a short bar. A long bar flips up (kicks back) slower than a short bar; for instance, an 18" bar rotates back at me far faster than a 42" bar. It's the same with a socket and ratchet: a short 3" stubby is fast, a 36" long ratchet is slow if the ends of both move at the same speed, and really, even if a guy were to go as fast as they could on a 36" long ratchet, a 3" stubby on a moderately loose nut is going to be faster without even trying.
I think they don't want to tell people to not lean into the cut (because nobody admits to doing that), clear chips occasionally, and when running a long bar put a smaller sprocket on and turn up the darn oiler to max. How many guys that don't have the benefit of being on here know to punch the pin and crank up the oil on long bars? (I thank you guys for "learnin' me that!") I learned long ago a saw is like a delicate race car engine--push it hard and things burn up fast. Be easy on it and it tends to last forever; you guys taught me why.
I agree. This picture is a gross exaggeration.I can't claim to have experienced drastic kick back in a flip or upwards rotation that was truly difficult to control on any of my large saws, but yes a long bar helps prevent this action IMO.
weight precludes that a bit more than high powered small saws, even trying to simulate it on multiple occasions.
even with short bars my large saws normally just bite wood away, or bounce in more of a rough bomp or an abrupt vibration more than kick.
worst offender of kickback I have had was an 028 with a 14" bar, low rakers & my 11yo idiot ass revving it through saplings by a fence line & caught a wire. It was violent, and certainly taught me reality.
if I hadn't had my front arm straight it may have ended with an even uglier face than I already have, or worse lol.
but with some of the larger more torque potent saws I find pinching the top of the chain as you come out of a log can send the whole package back at you pretty hard.
I've watched on a couple occasions where it actually knocks a guy over and the saw lands on the persons leg. and the longer the bar the longer the push stroke...
If you have a significant other, tell them you need to spend $3800+ on a saw you'll only use twice a year, they'll talk you out of it and then some! I personally say buy it and let us know what you think of it. Then get a 592 and run them against each other and report back on that. Plus, you need an 088, 880, or 090 to run it against as well, for testing purposes of course.So who is running one now ?
seriously tempted to get one, but 3800+ for a saw I will use twice a year is hard to pull the trigger on.
Talk me out of it LOL.
Get one. Most here own 100s of saws. Hell if you even use it once a year or once a decade, then you are way ahead of the collectors on this forum.So who is running one now ?
seriously tempted to get one, but 3800+ for a saw I will use twice a year is hard to pull the trigger on.
Talk me out of it LOL.
If you have a significant other, tell them you need to spend $3800+ on a saw you'll only use twice a year, they'll talk you out of it and then some! I personally say buy it and let us know what you think of it. Then get a 592 and run them against each other and report back on that. Plus, you need an 088, 880, or 090 to run it against as well, for testing purposes of course.
BANNED! Turn in your AS membership badge, send all your saws and saw paraphernalia to me, and quietly leave the forum please. If you behave nicely, we'll still let you polish @Gaudaost 's saws and saw parts.trouble is wife is onboard with it, I'm the one having issues justifying it
He advises me but wouldn’t clean any of my sawsBANNED! Turn in your AS membership badge, send all your saws and saw paraphernalia to me, and quietly leave the forum please. If you behave nicely, we'll still let you polish @Gaudaost 's saws and saw parts.
I have one
Here ya go, Now drool.
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