Interesting... I searched the 271 to 291 IPL and Service Manual that I have and no transfer cover was found.
Stihl repair help please
- Thread starter VW Splitter
- Start date
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"Stihl" must consider the Cylinder and transfer cover as (Monolithic) a one piece part as the Transfer cover is supposedly permanently glued to the cylinder. (Speculation by me)
Because an IPL is an illustrated part list- and the transfer covers are not deemed a stand alone part.
Go page to page one, post one- blow up the provided photograph and you will see the Stihl number 1141 63 A (as indeed @HarleyT did) and you see it is a 271 with transfer covers factory chemically bonded to the cylinder- until they become unbonded.
We use this at work for last ditch scenarios..... Like JB Weld 10x on steroids but hard to get and expensive!
https://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1511.aspx
https://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1511.aspx
Belzona is good stuff.I bonded brake pads with it.
Kash
Kash
I actually have some of the 1111 stuff from work. Maintenance guy just threw 2 packs to me and said "shhhhhhhh". LOL
I used some to repair a metal lawnmower fuel tank, never leaked a drop and still doesn't to this day submerged in gas.
I used some to repair a metal lawnmower fuel tank, never leaked a drop and still doesn't to this day submerged in gas.
2018 Contractor saw. Go for the epoxy and let us know how it works. Would love to do a pressure and vacuum test after.
I used this stuff on a CAT engine. The lower liner O ring area was cavitated leaking coolant into the oil pan. . Buffed the area with carbide burr filled with belzona and sanded. Never had a problem again on it. That was on a 3406B.
Once you get the surface to suit you plain old Acetone is good at getting any residual grease off.
Something like CRC Contact Cleaner 2000 is good as well, but that stuff has gotten ridiculous.
Something like CRC Contact Cleaner 2000 is good as well, but that stuff has gotten ridiculous.
samaritan
ArboristSite Operative
I started a thread talking about the same problem, didnt see this one, I have with my Stihl ms251c. manufacturer says " it cant be fixed" ********! I will fix it! I used jb superweld, I'll know later today if it worked.
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
So, @samaritan , did it work?
samaritan
ArboristSite Operative
I don't know yet, I'm waiting til payday (11/03) to order a Stihl coil, since none of these damn chinese one are any good.
I haven’t glued mine back yet. I have settled on which JB Weld I’m gonna use. The original JB Weld 8265. That is what JB Weld recommends. It is good for 550 F.. A chainsaw shouldn’t reach 400 F.
Abbeville TSI
ArboristSite Operative
The trick is going to be how clean the glued joint is...
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What model are you getting a coil for? The one that you were asking about the flywheel?
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some folks just like self abuse... There is likely nothing wrong with the original coil. The motor died from a transfer cover air leak NOT an ignition failure.
No, the guy waiting for payday to buy an OEM coil is not the same guy and OP to this thread.
In saying that- I might not be up with the play of the piggyback poster and his saw might be trashed from the get go?
It sounds like the Stihl one failed also...
Looks like it’s going to work. I want to thank everyone for their input on this dilemma. I had never seen anything like it before. I ended up using the original JB Weld 8365. It’s supposed to be good for 550°F. A chainsaw should not get above 400°F. That is also the JB Weld product that JB Weld suggested when I quizzed them about it. I have ran it through a couple of cycles, heating up and cooling off. I am ready to give it back to my friend and let him give it a real work out to see if it holds up. I did get it super clean, and let the JB Weld and the saw acclimate to a nice warm temperature before putting it together. I used a large radiator clamp to squeeze it together while it was setting up. JB Weld suggested 24 hours set up time before trying it. I gave it over four times that much time before I tried it. Thanks again for all your comments.
Gary.
Gary.
