Stihl saw will not run at full throttle

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pinmakers

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
canada
Hi All, have a stihl 031av saw that will idle fine and I can adjust the L screw fine per madsens web sit. When I give it throttle, the saw bogs down and will either run like it needs more fuel (sort of bucks and kicks) or will die. if I let off the throttle it goes back to idle. Cleaned the carb, fresh fuel, good spark, muffler ok. Can anyone give me some more suggestions? Thanks, Bart
 
Hi, I took the low and high screw out of the carb (walboro), removed the diaphragm cover, checked diaphragm for wear, cracks, removed the other cover on top, dont know what its called that houses the little metering flaps, they're ok, checked the brass screen, clean, removed metering needle, spring etc. shot carb cleaner throughout, let sit, then blewout with air.
Removed muffler and checked for buildup,slight buildup where it connects to head, cleaned it too. Hope this helps, Bart
 
pinmakers said:
Hi All, have a stihl 031av saw that will idle fine and I can adjust the L screw fine per madsens web sit. When I give it throttle, the saw bogs down and will either run like it needs more fuel (sort of bucks and kicks) or will die. if I let off the throttle it goes back to idle. Cleaned the carb, fresh fuel, good spark, muffler ok. Can anyone give me some more suggestions? Thanks, Bart
check for a short in ignition, take your bar and chain off, ( at nite) start, turn out the lite's an rev it up. should be able to see if spark is jumping, (cracked wire). may also be your point's.
 
sugarbush said:
check for a short in ignition, take your bar and chain off, ( at nite) start, turn out the lite's an rev it up. should be able to see if spark is jumping, (cracked wire). may also be your point's.

Thanks, I am new to this, when the bars off, where is the ignition and points located, also, would you know what the point specs should be? How can I tell if they are worn?
Thanks, Bart
 
pinmakers said:
Thanks, I am new to this, when the bars off, where is the ignition and points located, also, would you know what the point specs should be? How can I tell if they are worn?
Thanks, Bart
the point's are behind the flywheel and you'll need a special puller for that. check for a short first, then you'll be better off taking it to a shop for the point's if there is no short.
 
Wow, quick replies, thanks a million. I'll check the short, leave the points up to the shop. Bart
 
On the flywheel side, It just makes it easier to flip and roll the saw around in the dark without cutting half the stuff up in your shop.

Rotax
 
Rotax Robert said:
On the flywheel side, It just makes it easier to flip and roll the saw around in the dark without cutting half the stuff up in your shop.

Rotax

Speaking of the dark, I had to laugh, I lent my other stihl and a poulan to our neighbor last night who helps us all the time, they have pine beetles and had to take down 5 trees, they actually did it in the dark!! I thought they'd at least wait till morning, Boneheads knocked down they're 30 yr. old antique birdhouse falling the last tree......smitherines!:laugh:
 
pinmakers said:
Speaking of the dark, I had to laugh, I lent my other stihl and a poulan to our neighbor last night who helps us all the time, they have pine beetles and had to take down 5 trees, they actually did it in the dark!! I thought they'd at least wait till morning, Boneheads knocked down they're 30 yr. old antique birdhouse falling the last tree......smitherines!:laugh:

Hey, get some pics, and of the stump and cut also so we can see what he did. Be good fun for us. I wonder if he actually aimed for it or cut thru his hingewood etc?
 
Ekka said:
Hey, get some pics, and of the stump and cut also so we can see what he did. Be good fun for us. I wonder if he actually aimed for it or cut thru his hingewood etc?

I will! No aiming, just shear stupid luck, right between the two trees! B:chainsaw:
 
Brushwacker said:
Your points can be set right, look good, but if the spring tension that closes your points is to weak, at high rpm range they would stay open.

So do you think replacing the entire system to electronic would be a good idea? The balance of the saw is in exc. cond.
 
I bought 1 of those modules that replace the pts.& cnds. under $20 on ebay. I think there is 1 listed now. If your coil and switch are good that should work. I never used mine but it looks easy to install with instructions. There is a few differant ones for differant applications. The seller will tell you the one you need for your saw .
 

Latest posts

Back
Top