Strongway chain sharpener

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dls

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Just received a new Strongway saw chain sharpener to replace my 30 year old machine that is getting very worn. The motor starts very slow. Is this normal? No lock to keep the motor from turning to put on the stone. Instructions are worthless telling nearly nothing............."install the grinding stone." Otherwise seems nice and heavy made.
 

Harley, I took pictures before I boxed it back up to return. Bent and broken parts keep me from being able to try it out on some chains. Also the light is so weak I cannot see the chain to work unlike my very old machine which has a sewing machine bulb right behind the stone.
 

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Harley, I took pictures before I boxed it back up to return. Bent and broken parts keep me from being able to try it out on some chains. Also the light is so weak I cannot see the chain to work unlike my very old machine which has a sewing machine bulb right behind the stone.
 

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Just received a new Strongway saw chain sharpener to replace my 30 year old machine that is getting very worn. The motor starts very slow. Is this normal? No lock to keep the motor from turning to put on the stone. Instructions are worthless telling nearly nothing............."install the grinding stone." Otherwise seems nice and heavy made.

On most of those Oregon copies on the bottom side of the motor, just to the left of the grinding wheel shroud there is an access hole that you put an Allen wrench or Phillips screw driver in. Rotate the wheel until you see the hole in the drive shaft, slide the wrench/screwdriver into the hole to lock the shaft while changing the wheel.
 
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Hope this helps


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Lots of clones grinders similar to this one to choose from. Other then the shipping damage, this looks to be an upgraded model. The real cheap ones (<$100) do not have the adjustment to move the chain mount forward and back to adjust for a wearing grinding wheel. My 6yo Grizzly is at the lower end of the available choices, and has been a work horse and has made my saws perform very well over the years.
 
I had a smaller in dimension model than this that was made in Italy in the 80's before my shop burned down in 1992. It was orange is about all I remember but I really liked it. Also liked the Nielson that replaced it. Both were very easy to use and much better quality I think. I did not realize condensors and capacitors were the same but once I think about condensors on old ignition systems, it makes sense. Thanks. Never too old to learn something.
 
I had a smaller in dimension model than this that was made in Italy in the 80's before my shop burned down in 1992. It was orange is about all I remember but I really liked it. Also liked the Nielson that replaced it. Both were very easy to use and much better quality I think. I did not realize condensors and capacitors were the same but once I think about condensors on old ignition systems, it makes sense. Thanks. Never too old to learn something.

If my cheapo grinder ever fails, I would upgrade to the hydraulic assist. There are 5 steps in grinding a chain. 1) Loosen the chain clamp, 2) move the chain, 3) tighten the chain clamp, 4) lower the motor&stone to grind 5) raise the motor&stone. With the hydraulic you would remove 1&3, and it would all occur that much quicker and simpler.

There is a significant cost in such an upgrade, but after so many years of use, the cost per sharpening is a few pennies.
 
You might have one that is set up for 230V power. That could explain the dim light and weak motor. Was your power plug okay...or did you have to replace it with a different (stardard) one. Also look at the tag on the motor. Should say 120V or 110V
 
You might have one that is set up for 230V power. That could explain the dim light and weak motor. Was your power plug okay...or did you have to replace it with a different (stardard) one. Also look at the tag on the motor. Should say 120V or 110V

120. Just cheap crap
 
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