SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!

[powerking]

Put a degree wheel on it and make a pointer that is fixed. Find TDC and lock the degree wheel at 0 on the pointer. Flywheel side or clutch side makes no difference. Then with an assistant or two, spin the engine over and with your timing light you can see where it's firing. Plug out of the cylinder but grounded of course.
Adjust the mag plate to indicate whatever degrees BTDC your engine is supposed to have.
Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...ash=item2c76ffea48:g:a3sAAOxy4t1SiqpO&vxp=mtr

*Don't run it with the degree wheel. But you can spin it with a drill up to a couple thousand revs which also should show you an advance curve if it has one.

I tried the above, but the plug wire is so short, I could barely get my timing light clamp around the wire

 

[powerking]

....too much fuel maybe?

 

[LegDeLimber]

Completely fold back or remove the ground strap from a spark plug and see if the spark jumps a .200+ gap, at normal cranking speed.

Assuming all else is good with the engine, timing, compression sealing, etc.
I've got one of those old test plugs and in over 35 years, I have yet to find an engine that wouldn't run IF the spark was blue across that .200 inch gap.
I've seen a few things jump a .020~.050 gap and have a blue-ish looking spark, but wouldn't run.
So then I put that big gap in the test and it wouldn't jump that.
After fixing/replacing the bad ignition parts and seeing the spark hop that big gap, bingo! Ignition troubles solved and on to whatever else was ailing the unit.

http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/OTC/OTC6589.jpg
Somehow I'm feeling too lazy to get dressed just to go out to the shed and take a photo of mine at 3:30am.

edit: Are you using a new spark plug? have you tried that particular plug in another known runner saw?

 

[scallywag]

I tried the above, but the plug wire is so short, I could barely get my timing light clamp around the wire

Are you testing for spark with the switch wire disabled ?.....That is to say, completely disconnected from the switch?

 

[powerking]

Are you testing for spark with the switch wire disabled ?.....That is to say, completely disconnected from the switch?

Yes....Wire is completely dissabled. I ran a new wire all the way from the coil. Its not hooked up to anything yet, just coiled up. Yes it does work, because if I ground it, I get no spark at all

 

[scallywag]

Yes....Wire is completely dissabled. I ran a new wire all the way from the coil. Its not hooked up to anything yet, just coiled up. Yes it does work, because if I ground it, I get no spark at all

Have you also checked the small ground wire that earths the top cover to the case?.. These are prone to break on the 1115 series saws and is the only thing that's earthing the top cover to the case!...I should also ad that trying to ground the plug to the diecast magnesium cover is not the best conductor.

 

[powerking]

Have you also checked the small ground wire that earths the top cover to the case?.. These are prone to break on the 1115 series saws and is the only thing that's earthing the top cover to the case!...I should also ad that trying to ground the plug to the diecast magnesium cover is not the best conductor.

Ive actually clipped a lead to the cylinder and attched it to the plug to check and it still gets bright blue spark. another thing that popped into my head is that when I rebuilt the saw, the base gasket was shot so I made another one and checked the squish and reassemdbled. I wonder if my port timing could be an issue?? Maybe? I'm currently trying to figure out what thickness the base gasket is...

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Typically .5mm or 1mm for the base gasket with the thicker one intended to be used in lower compression situations such as third world environments where the fuel is usually poor octane. (Minimizes pre-detonation.) Wouldn't affect ignition timing and would affect port timing only minimally.

I'm still leaning toward something weird going on with the flywheel....like maybe the wrong one somehow? Have you tried removing the key and advancing/retarding the timing to see what happens? (The key is essentially only there for timing / alignment purposes anyway.) 'Bout the only thing left to try!

And that amount of fuel left in the carb isn't unusual. I'd be more worried if it were dry. One thing though..., depending on the carb, the metering lever may be forked and need to slide under the little knob on the metering diaphragm to work right. Just thinkin' out loud again...

 

[powerking]

...Pogo, I truly appreciate all your info..really! I did check the carb, because I did also have a rebuilt kit with just the button on the metering diaphragm. I ended up getting the correct rebuild with the "forkable" metering diaphragm. I took it apart today and made a tad bit thicker base gasket. Still nothing. I will have to try and take the key out and mess with timing that way. I will have to post the number on my flywheel, but I believe it ends in 8000? Its a Bosch one

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Short discussion on the various 1115 flywheels...

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/need-some-045-056-ignition-help.257204/

And trust me, I'm as curious about this as you are frustrated. So far, the fix itself has proven to function as advertised regarding re-establishing spark in what was previously a no-spark condition. When it sparks clearly seems to be the issue. The only other thing that comes to mind aside from the physical timing alignment between the flywheel and the coil possibly being offset would be an actual delay factor inherent in the new cap that retards the trigger.

 

[powerking]

..here's what I'm dealing with

 

[scallywag]

Could you show a pic of the original timing marks on the ignition plate and your crankcase?....I'd like to see a comparison between the originals and the ones you made when pulling the saw down.

[Edit] Your parts are correct for 056 Super.

 

[scallywag]

This timing mark should match the one on your crankcase at about 10:00 o'clock.

 

[scallywag]

 

[powerking]

...Here is my markings

 

[scallywag]

Working from the FW side, fit the FW and tune the crank clockwise until the piston reaches 0.100" (2.5mm) BTDC. (Rough Numbers)
You may need to remove and refit the FW to make things line up.
The timing mark shown in the pic should now be close to lining up with the original marks on your crankcase.

 

[powerking]

Scallywag, I went out to the garage and checked your info against what I have and it was pretty darn close! I ended up taking the FW off and removing the key and adjusting it in closer. ......snapped the rope right out of my hand! Must have went a little bit to far! I ended up bringing it back to where it was upon dissasembly Like I had mentioned earlier, I got the saw for nothing....cleaned it up and put some new rings in it....OH and I forgot to mention because I don't think it has any significance, but one of the metal pieces on the backside of the flywheel was dislodged when I first took it apart for cleaning. It was stopping the saw from turning over completely, the guy thought it was seized up! I took that metal piece and jb welded it back to the magnet, this doesn;t have to go on a certain way does it? Its just the metal piece.........

 

[scallywag]

That metal piece (Pole shoe) would need to be replaced exactly where it come from spacing wise to the others.... Also is the magnetism of that shoe equal to the others?

 

[powerking]

Yes...I did put it right back in the same spot with some jb weld.......The magnetism seems the same all the way around on all 4 poles

 

[Gregor]

Hi foggysail,

thanks for this great solution.

I just repaired ignition on my Husqvarna 285CD (year 1978) using your method.

Won't post all images, just image of capacitor location I choose on this specific model.

I purchased this capacitor.

Regards, Gregor