SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!

[Greenmachine]

Pogo, I bought this cap and picked it up because the shipping's a bit pricey. But I'm sure you can source it elsewhere if you choose. I'd offer to mail you one, but I've only got one left and I always keep a spare.

http://leeselectronic.com/en/product/8015.html

BTW, its bigger than that quarter.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thank you for the quick response! Shipping can't be too crazy from your source if I can't source one domestically.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Resurecting an old but VERY informative thread.


I have an 045 AV (and a 041 FB and a 041 AV FB) I picked up recently. The 045 has the Bosch flywheel but a points ignition, my assumption is someone tossed in a points ignition at some point. It runs ok, not great, but it has developed the “runs 15-30 minutes and die” syndrom synonymous with the Bosch system. My question is this: Can I utilize this ‘fix’ and remove the condenser from under the flywheel and locate the prescribed capacitor outside the flywheel? Will it make any difference or should I just buy a stock condenser and hope it works out?

ANY advice would be appreciated.

Note: All the saws I picked up appear to have been run hard and never had any sort of maintenance or even cleaning. Underneath all the grime and crud the paint/components are almost brand new. Doubt it makes a difference, but figured I should throw that in.

Buck

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The 045AV used a points ignition. AVE's were electronic. While possible, it's unlikely that someone converted an AVE to an AV. That said, I would very carefully examine the points setup on your saw and clean the points for starters. Also inspect the wiring for chafing, worn insulation, pinching, etc. I think I'd put my money on the condenser going bad, myself.

Converting to the electronic ignition just for the sake of doing so and/or implementing the fix detailed in this thread would be expensive and probably unnecessary to get the saw running right again. A points saw will generally provide spark you could weld with when properly maintained. Without searching, I would imagine the points and condenser are still readily available if you dig around a little for the parts. I rebuilt one a year or so ago and was still able to get a case gasket and seals through a dealer.

And if you can't get the points setup to work properly, an Atom or Nova module (chip) would probably be the easier, cheaper, and faster way to eliminate the points ignition.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

The 045AV used a points ignition. AVE's were electronic. While possible, it's unlikely that someone converted an AVE to an AV. That said, I would very carefully examine the points setup on your saw and clean the points for starters. Also inspect the wiring for chafing, worn insulation, pinching, etc. I think I'd put my money on the condenser going bad, myself.

Converting to the electronic ignition just for the sake of doing so and/or implementing the fix detailed in this thread would be expensive and probably unnecessary to get the saw running right again. A points saw will generally provide spark you could weld with when properly maintained. Without searching, I would imagine the points and condenser are still readily available if you dig around a little for the parts. I rebuilt one a year or so ago and was still able to get a case gasket and seals through a dealer.

And if you can't get the points setup to work properly, an Atom or Nova module (chip) would probably be the easier, cheaper, and faster way to eliminate the points ignition.

Thank you for the advice! I grew up using my Grandfather’s 041 Farm Boss (until my cousin pawned it for drug money) and am very familiar with that platform amd the points maintenance. Picked these saws up as a “reminiscent reminder of working with my Gramps growing up/the good old days” project.

I did work over the points and the rest of the electronics. I am under the impression it is an AVE but the top cover has been swapped out. The guy I purchased from seemed to ‘redneck engineer’ all of his stuff, the sad state of affairs on all the saws speaks to the efficiency of his repairs. In your opinion would moving the condenser out from under the flywheel improve longevity/efficiency as it will remain cooler?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I don't know if moving the condenser would have much more effect on its longevity or efficiency due to overheating than just a good cleaning of any accumulated funk under the recoil assembly and around the flywheel itself. Can't see how it would hurt, though.

 

[hotshot]

It probably is a faulty capacitor (condenser) causing it to shut down, if your piston rings aren't worn out & it's losing compresssion when it gets hot.

You can put an in line spark tester on the plug while you're cutting & see if it loses spark when it dies.

The Bosch flywheel FW is correct for the points setup.

The electronic Bosch CD ignition module also uses a Bosch FW, but a different part number & different magnets of course.

The capacitor size that you need for points is only 0.15 to 0.19 microfarads, totally different than the "Foggysail Fix" for the later CD ignitions, but those original style round caps #1115 404 3400 are still available from several places on the internet.

Just tap the old one out from the bottom & drive the new one in from the top with a socket. Those old 041, 045, & 056 points ignitions throw lightning bolts when set up correctly.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

It probably is a faulty capacitor (condenser) causing it to shut down, if your piston rings aren't worn out & it's losing compresssion when it gets hot.

You can put an in line spark tester on the plug while you're cutting & see if it loses spark when it dies.

The Bosch flywheel FW is correct for the points setup.

The electronic Bosch CD ignition module also uses a Bosch FW, but a different part number & different magnets of course.

The capacitor size that you need for points is only 0.15 to 0.19 microfarads, totally different than the "Foggysail Fix" for the later CD ignitions, but those original style round caps #1115 404 3400 are still available from several places on the internet.

Just tap the old one out from the bottom & drive the new one in from the top with a socket. Those old 041, 045, & 056 points ignitions throw lightning bolts when set up correctly.

m

Thank you for the clarification on the FW!

I used the old school, tried and true ‘lick your fingers and close your eyes’ method of testing spark (Actually I grounded out the plug and visually verified spark, I only use that other method for testing outlets and breakers). Spark looked..... OK. Not horrible but not great. Condensers are cheap, i’ll order one.

 

[thebarber]

Hi, I've just bought a 056e and it's a cracking saw when running but obviously I have this problem of cutting out and probably need this mod.
I'm having trouble finding the capacitor needed tho, any up to date links please.
I'm in uk btw.
Cheers in advance

 

[thebarber]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/350819434093
Are these ok?

 

[foggysail]

NO! You need a value closer to 1UF, those shown in your posted URL are only 0.1UF.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The link in post #622 is a closer match, but Foggy may have a comment on that one as well.

 

[thebarber]

This is whats under the flywheel...
Looks like there's been a problem with the off switch before & it's been scrubbing the flywheel so I'll address that but symptoms of cutting out when hot seem like capacitor., just need to find the right one in UK.

 

[foggysail]

Is your picture showing a 'shorted' wire, the wire that is used for the shutoff switch????

 

[thebarber]

Yes, seems it's had a fix before & rubbing under flywheel.
The saw would only cut out when warm tho so I'm assuming still seems like capacitor problem, obviously I'll address the shut off switch aswell.

 

[thebarber]

RIGHT!
Capacitor arrived today so got the saw back out to get things ready for the weekend and clean it up.
On doing so stripping further revealed a helicoil in one of the bar bolts which I'll have to replace, also an oil leak so pulled pump out and I'm guessing/ hoping it's the gasket.
Anyone had issues with this on the 56?
It may be the pump but is there anywhere else to look as when stood full of oil it gradually leaks.
Cheers

 

[Definitive Dave]

Hey is anyone set up to repair these ignitions in exchange for good old american green paper or saw parts?
I have a couple (might be as many as 6/7) that are holding up saw projects including a couple race saws lol.
Send me a PM please if you are interested
Dave

 

[thebarber]

Well she's a runner , fired up last nite.
Just waiting for a oil pump gasket now and refine a few things .
Thanks for the help guys.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Congrats. Where did you source your cap and what value did you use?

@Definitive Dave -- I shot you a PM.

 

[thebarber]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/151241678480
Hopefully the gasket will sort the oil leak then were in business