Suggestions for a bench chain sharpener

[Woodyjiw]

I'm really considering the purchase of a chain grinder and would like some suggestions from those of u that own them. I haven't researched them much but I'm not interested in cheap grinders.
I've checked out an Oregon grinder that a friend has but I've never ran it.
What's out there for $300-$400? And please school me a lil on grinders.

Thanks in advance.

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[Bedford T]

http://www.madsens1.com/sil_round.htm

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The Oregon clones work just fine and are $100ish. Pretty much same grinder, without the brand.

 

[Woodyjiw]

I've been looking at some grinders and doing a lil bit of reading.
Is reverse a handy option on a grinder and is the reason for reverse to be able to grind the opposite tooth without changing things?

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[Tenderfoot]

I have an Oregon 410-120 which I have been very happy with. Not good for depth gauges, but plenty good for grinding teeth and does a very good job once you get a feel for setting it up and take you time.

 

[Woodyjiw]

I have an Oregon 410-120 which I have been very happy with. Not good for depth gauges, but plenty good for grinding teeth and does a very good job once you get a feel for setting it up and take you time.

When u say not good for depth gauges does that mean u can't do them or it's a pita? I was looking at the Oregon 510 or 20 (I don't recall the model number) it said in the description it would do rakers as well.

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[Tenderfoot]

When u say not good for depth gauges does that mean u can't do them or it's a pita? I was looking at the Oregon 510 or 20 (I don't recall the model number) it said in the description it would do rakers as well.

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I can do them, and accurately, but it is faster to use a progressive depth gauge. They are not accurate unless you turn the chain 180* because of the offset in them.

 

[Philbert]

I'm really considering the purchase of a chain grinder . . . but I'm not interested in cheap grinders.

Get the Oregon 520-120. There is a reason why it is the 'standard' that other grinders are referenced against.

https://oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/accessories_main.htm

Is reverse a handy option on a grinder and is the reason for reverse to be able to grind the opposite tooth without changing things?

Most current grinders do not reverse due to UL safety requirements. Not a big deal IMO.

Good quality wheels, dressing the wheels frequently, and taking time to develop skill with the grinder are also important.

Philbert

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

 

[blades]

The reason for most grinders not having reverse any more is OSHA. Tossing silica and tiny metal chips in your face as you breathe is not good. Even with reverse you still need to adjust for offsets between the cutters - nature of the machine motion. A much cleaner way to run is to purchase a set of the CBN wheels ( about a c note apiece) They will out last the equivalent purchase price of vitrified wheels. With the very high amount of chains I do I wear out the vises ( clamping arrangement) in about 6-7 months - brand doesn't matter ( these are the standard pinch type) that fancy one with movable opposing jaws - would only last about 3 months. I went though 5 of those before I gave up on them. Once the threaded shaft breaks you have buy the whole assembly (about $160) as that shaft has not been available separately. It's a nice vise, idea is great, execution sucks. On the older ( more less standard) pinch type I wear the cams out. Note that the Oregon unit has a screw in the back side of the rails to adjust the starting width( gap) of the rails at the pinch point ( very handy) most of the clones do not have that, the boss is there though so one could add it if mechanically inclined. Just some thoughts off the cuff as it were

 

[Philbert]

With the very high amount of chains I do I wear out the vises . . . that fancy one with movable opposing jaws - would only last about 3 months. . . . On the older ( more less standard) pinch type I wear the cams out.

Sounds like a lotta chains!

Just to keep things straight for the OP:
- The Oregon 511A (and most 'clones') use a cam/pinch type vise;
- The Oregon 511AX (and some Tecomec grinders) used a vise with 'self-centering' jaws;
- The current Oregon 520-120 goes back to a cam/pinch vise, but adds a bracket to squeeze from both sides.

@blades - have you tried (or worn out!) one of these newer vises yet?

Philbert

 

[Woodyjiw]

Thank you very much for the responses! That helps very much..

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[Woodyjiw]

Sounds like a lotta chains!

Just to keep things straight for the OP:
- The Oregon 511A (and most 'clones') use a cam/pinch type vise;
- The Oregon 511AX (and some Tecomec grinders) used a vise with 'self-centering' jaws;
- The current Oregon 520-120 goes back to a cam/pinch vise, but adds a bracket to squeeze from both sides.

@blades - have you tried (or worn out!) one of these newer vises yet?

Philbert

I'm about to pull the trigger on the 520-120 but I found an almost new 620-120 for around $270. I've watched a couple videos of the 620 but I'm a little concerned of the hydraulic clamping. Mostly of it failing and being expensive to fix.
Any opinion of the 620?

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[blades]

Philbert: the 511ax vise is what i gave up on- even with some of the fixes that were/are buried here too costly to have to replace 4 times a year
511a pinch is where I where out cam, it wears into the bar as well as on its pivot. built bar rail back up ( on some you can swap them around) and build up and repair cam ( not perfect but working for now, still a pia) . think the next idea is too use one of those push pull toggle clamps I have a couple pretty small ones laying around that I might be able to rig up using the cam stud area as a mounting point. Just haven't got to it yet.
Haven't seen the 520-120 assembly
Most of this in an average use function would not be an issue for many years-

 

[Philbert]

I'm about to pull the trigger on the 520-120 but I found an almost new 620-120 for around $270. I've watched a couple videos of the 620 but I'm a little concerned of the hydraulic clamping. Mostly of it failing and being expensive to fix.
Any opinion of the 620?

People who do a lot of chains like the hydraulic feature, and that is a good price if in the condition indicated. I think that there were a few problems with the older versions.

Worst case, I assume (?) that you could pull the hydraulic vise and replace it with a standard vise - one of the advantages of buying a name brand model with parts available.

Philbert: the 511ax vise is what i gave up on. . . 511a pinch is where I where out cam, . . . ( on some you can swap them around) and build up and repair cam ( not perfect but working for now, still a pia) . . . Haven't seen the 520-120 assembly. Most of this in an average use function would not be an issue for many years.

It is helpful to have the input / insight from heavy users like yourself. They should send you grinders / parts just to test them!

I wore the spot in the vise rail of my 511A with only moderate use, and found out that you can reposition them about 4 times (?) before you have to replace them:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/ (Post #53).

There were a lot of comments on the 511AX vise not holding up to heavy use, which why I assume that Oregon redesigned the clamp on the 520-120 (Tecomec still uses the 511AX vise):
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511ax-vise.228345/

The, there is the questions of whether the Silvey 'Faultless Pawls' can be adapted to eliminate the need for clamping each link! At least one member here tried to do this: will post a link if I find it.

Philbert

 

[Woodyjiw]

People who do a lot of chains like the hydraulic feature, and that is a good price if in the condition indicated. I think that there were a few problems with the older versions.

Worst case, I assume (?) that you could pull the hydraulic vise and replace it with a standard vise - one of the advantages of buying a name brand model with parts available.



It is helpful to have the input / insight from heavy users like yourself. They should send you grinders / parts just to test them!

I wore the spot in the vise rail of my 511A with only moderate use, and found out that you can reposition them about 4 times (?) before you have to replace them:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/ (Post #53).

There were a lot of comments on the 511AX vise not holding up to heavy use, which why I assume that Oregon redesigned the clamp on the 520-120 (Tecomec still uses the 511AX vise):
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511ax-vise.228345/

The, there is the questions of whether the Silvey 'Faultless Pawls' can be adapted to eliminate the need for clamping each link! At least one member here tried to do this: will post a link if I find it.

Philbert

Thanks again, I appreciate it. Now I'll see if I can seal the deal.

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[Woodyjiw]

Well, I missed out on the 620. It sold for more than I was willing to spend. But I did order the 520 and it should be here in about a week.

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[ChoppyChoppy]

They are around $70 on Amazon.

 

[rwoods]

Just curious, but aren't the Oregon models made by Tecomec?

Ron

 

[Philbert]

Just curious, but aren't the Oregon models made by Tecomec?

Yes. But some Oregon models have unique / proprietary features.

Philbert

 

[blades]

fore and aft adjustment of vise assembly to keep grinding wheel centered on cutter- a lot of the knock offs do not have this - not an issue if using the cbn wheels as their diameter does not radically change like a newly dressed vitrified wheel does.