Sugihara Super Hard Tip

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Is this bar worth buying and using on my Dolmar PS-421. I know its not a sprocket tip.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/321336395320?nav=SEARCH
I have a 16 inch solid tip bar with Echo logo [ but sugi manufactured, fitted to an Alpina saw with oil hole mods ] it has been used a lot & has stood up to the use very well, it shows almost no wear in the same amount of time/use that wore out the Oregon bar it replaced. At the same time I purchased a sprocket nose bar same bar mount to run standard size 3/8 chain both are 050/1.3 gauge. IIRC they cost me £10 each[ closing down Echo dealer ] he had some 20 bars in total I wish I had bought more The info the seller put up re the tip is probably OK as it seems to hard to file + no wear, at a price comparable to the mainstream bars, I would take the Sugi every time.solid nose or other wise, IMO excellent bits of kit.
 
Sugihara bars are second to none...have a couple of solid nose I use regularly and wear very well, no chipping of the stellite tip and the bar body's are on a par with Stihl bar hardness.
 
I got a couple of those in "14" inch. With the bar tail against a six tooth spur sprocket getting a 52 drive link chain is just borderline fingers/pliers (outboard clutch) to get the chain on perhaps calls for 53. Some of that size class Sugi bars in 16 I think call for 57. I am saying the best fit might be with different loops. I just measured it's width 0.148 or so so it is really for 3/8 low pro or Nk.325. Mine work with 60 drive links of .325 but the standard chasis is not a correct match, the slot is plenty deep enough. No lubri dam or lubri well feature. A bar like this makes more heat and tension changes more dramatically Using the top of the bar should be limited. As to how much power loss it seems to vary. I have a similar Oregon lasar lite bar and the steel seems soft in the area the stellite ends which seems to be where the chain gets stuck if it partially derails on the oregon one. I think the sugi tail is a bit wider.
 
Do they rob much power from the saw?
As you are probably aware it is good practice to run the chain with more slack than a sprocket nose. If the saw you run it on, has an adjustable oiler I always run with it pushing out more oil. If there is more drag it is to me not that apparent, but if you are using on a regular basis you become used to the set up & running characteristics, so it may be apparent on changing saws/setup. Please do not take this post as me trying to tell/teach you to suck eggs, it is just the way it comes across to me with that setup. I do not think you will be disappointed if you go for it.:rock:
 

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