The clear coating has begun, ready for the last heavy coat and it will be done, no runs or sags so far so have fingers crossed for the last shot.
Sure is quiet in here....do I need to start a fight?
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The clear coating has begun, ready for the last heavy coat and it will be done, no runs or sags so far so have fingers crossed for the last shot.
All is well. Just has to cure up and it will be ready for install on the boat.
Had a few mins while waiting for the clear coat to dry, been cleaning 026 parts and trying to figure out what sidelined this saw. Eureka moment, found it while still totally unassembled.
What did you find ?
This is the third 026 that has come my way with this very same problem. My first was a $5. one in a box of parts, next one was a complete running saw, I paid $45. for that one, this one was a free complete saw but completely stripped down. All it takes is a screwdriver to fix this problem, one screw, what is it?
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I'm going to try and combine the two Carters I have to get the correct combination of parts.....basic body will be the 77 Hornet carb but have to swap out the throttle shafts as the built-in ball stud is on the wrong side for the linkage to work on that carb...also want the electric choke from the CJ carb installed on the Hornet carb......Hornet used a tube from the ex manifold to heat the choke spring but I am using the CJ ex manifold that doesn't have that feature. It'll either work or it won't.....if it gives me grief I'll make the call to Webberdirect.com and they'll send the whole kit for the 4.2 with the 38mm carb for $269.00 at my door. Tuning isn't going to be to complicated for this application.....just needs the start, idle and accelerate smoothly......if I can get that from the Carter/hybrid, that'll be fine for this one. If not the Webber kit is a simple bolt on kit.....new linkage no muss no fuss.....'cept for paying for it!!
No idea ?
Page deux....no more
Jimmy in NC
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Duh.... one screw down the intake and pull repeatedly. Fixes 'em all!
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Page II bump...rain.......like forevah.....may see the sun Thurs afternoon...then rain Friday.....wheeeee!!!!!!
4.2 coming along slowly.....got the oil pan cleaned up yesterday...took a can and a half of Easy Off and lots of brush work. Got it down to clean metal finally.....primed and painted last evening. Installed the longer oil pump pickup from the old motor. Had to "Make" a dipstick.....the original Jeep one fit in a long tube that came from 3/4 the way back on the block behind the distributer up to near the front of the engine so you stand in front of the miserable device and check the oil. The new HEI distributer is so large that the dipstick won't work......so......I installed the short dipstick tube back in the block.....of course the Hornet dipstick was to short so I took measurements of how far the dipstick extended into the base in the original Jeep motor then cut the long dipstick installed in to short tube to the correct length with my dremel and marked the "add" and "full" marks in the proper locations with the dremel cut-off wheel. The installed the base gaskets, sealed with HyloMar Blue. Then filled the base with 15-40 Ursa.....next I gutted out the Hornet distributer and lost the cam gear which made an excellent priming tool. Chucked that up in my DeWalt 20V drill and spun'er up......brandy new Mopar Performance High volume pump picked it right up......drill didn't like it I held 'er to it until I had oil coming out all 12 pushrods.....I let some smoke out of the drill so switched to a 120v 3/8 drill motor.....made smoke with that too.....well oiled now...installation not to far off....new (correct) water pump be here tomorrow or Wed....new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing all ready to be bolted up.....nice plastic line up tool came with the set.
4.2 coming along slowly.....got the oil pan cleaned up yesterday...took a can and a half of Easy Off and lots of brush work. Got it down to clean metal finally.....primed and painted last evening. Installed the longer oil pump pickup from the old motor. Had to "Make" a dipstick.....the original Jeep one fit in a long tube that came from 3/4 the way back on the block behind the distributer up to near the front of the engine so you stand in front of the miserable device and check the oil. The new HEI distributer is so large that the dipstick won't work......so......I installed the short dipstick tube back in the block.....of course the Hornet dipstick was to short so I took measurements of how far the dipstick extended into the base in the original Jeep motor then cut the long dipstick installed in to short tube to the correct length with my dremel and marked the "add" and "full" marks in the proper locations with the dremel cut-off wheel. The installed the base gaskets, sealed with HyloMar Blue. Then filled the base with 15-40 Ursa.....next I gutted out the Hornet distributer and lost the cam gear which made an excellent priming tool. Chucked that up in my DeWalt 20V drill and spun'er up......brandy new Mopar Performance High volume pump picked it right up......drill didn't like it I held 'er to it until I had oil coming out all 12 pushrods.....I let some smoke out of the drill so switched to a 120v 3/8 drill motor.....made smoke with that too.....well oiled now...installation not to far off....new (correct) water pump be here tomorrow or Wed....new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing all ready to be bolted up.....nice plastic line up tool came with the set.
Coming along nicely Robin, always pre oiled them myself,had a gutted distributor for my GM engines and run it on a 115 volt 1/2" drill for 15 - 20 mins, plenty of oil flowing off the rockers, often installed a pressure gauge on the block just for kicks, liked to see that 60- 70 lbs on a new or fresh rebuilt engine.
I had an older straight 6 250 ci that ran for 4 years with less than 12 lbs on the gauge, engine still running good when rust took the body out.
I had an older straight 6 250 ci that ran for 4 years with less than 12 lbs on the gauge, engine still running good when rust took the body out.
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The poor old motor from the miserable device was real tired....and was making a lot of noise and ran fairly "soft".....not a lot of power. Oil pressure would start out at 60 cold and by the time heat started coming out of the heater, oil pressure would drop to around 10psi on the road at 50 mph.......I've run a lot of real worn out 6 cyl over the years and this one didn't produce much faith.....however.....I found the timing chain hanging off the sprockets......reach up in and push the chain up and it hits the cam sprocket before it gets taught.....that goes to the amount of noise I was hearing......it didn't use a lot of oil and I 'spect a new timing chain set and it would have run for years if used normally. Inline 6 cyls were never big power houses but were always tuff as nails. Not unhappy doing all this...will feel better with a gone through engine and new clutch out where it's going.
Definitely worth the work seeing as to where it id going. A new chain and sprockets may have allowed the ole girl to limp along for a few more years but this newer spruced up engine will be much more all around.
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Yep...a timing set would have made most of the noise go away but wouldn't have helped the oil pressure...or lack thereof.....good core to rebuild......a full rebuild......
Morning bump 
Exactly, I have wasted time just replacing timing sets beforeon more than one engine, one the chain had cut through the cover on a 283, engine was tired but after the changeover it had much better power, the owner was seen stomping er often after and it soon tore out the crank inserts. He came back complaining the timing chain caused that, he got an earfull and shown the door....LOL
Dam shame ,Adam. Like I already posted over there, workmanship and quality of that kind will likely never be seen again. Definitely a big loss to community!
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I had the same thing happen on a 327...(same basic block)......wore right out through the timing cover.......thought it was a bad crank seal.........needed a new timing set and new cover......funny thing......that motor was in a 1969 C 30.....that motor ran 't exactly the same before as after.....didn't make a lick of difference as to how the started or ran.......I found that very strange....
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LOL couldn't resist....had to look at the old timing chain.........some beet EH?
