switching from 50:1 to 32:1

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Eh???

On a serious note I just started running 40:1 like in the past 1.5yrs... I had been 32:1 and swore by it. I WON'T EVER RUN LESS THAN 40:1... Just me. It's what I do. NEVER had a p/c problem though... My personal opinion is since the newer saws run higher rpms you can run richer. The older slower saws would carbon up cause they didn't turn the rpms... Just my thoughts. Nothing out there to back it up...

:cheers: eh?
 
I also run my saws 40 to 1 and have some saws still working that are 23 yrs old and more than a 1000 hrs on them. There is no carbon build up on them as when they run they run wide open, no sand bagging. I have never lost a p or c in any of my saws and only a ring job in two of my oldest saws when they dropped to 120 psi after 7-8 yrs running cutting pulp,logs and lot clearing.
I also have a buddy that cuts 5 days a week for 50 weeks a year in a hardwood supply yard and only runs Huskvarna saws.Started out with 266 xp then 365 and now only 372 `s. He was adamant that he used 50-1 when he first started out years ago as it was the factory recommendation but only got 18 months out of the first two saws. After talking with me and some other dealers he changed over to 40-1 and now gets 30 to 36 months running out of his saws. Take it for what it is, no guarantees but it works for us. IMO. Pioneerguy600
 
I get saws in that have been nuked, but the gas is 50:1, clean and new... yeah.. sure... the saw died on that gas...

The other variation is "my friend, brother, mother, aunt, uncle, concubine etc borrowed the saw...and it came back dead... "

It's like lying to your doctor... who are you really kidding?


A wise man once told me there are 2 things in life you never lend out
1) your saw
2) your wife
They both come back f***ed up
 
I am considering switching from 50:1 to 32:1. I need opinions and also how RPM change will I notice? Will the RPM go higher or lower? How do I tell if an oil is sythetic ?

Once again, if the manufacturer wanted you to run 32:1 they would tell you so! I have always ran factory specs and have never tied up a saw. Why try and reinvent the wheel.
 
I think in part what fuels the oil ratio threads is that there are folks (like me) that have always run 50:1 with no problems, but with all these folks swearing that they know more oil is better with the new synthetics it ges confusing.

And since at the higher ratios the synthetic oils don't add the smoke, smell or foul plugs, running more oil is less undesirable than it used to be.

To be honest, these days I run around 45:1, and my excuse is that I am accounting for any error I have in measuring. My head says 50:1 has worked fine for years, but with all these testimonials a small voice says "what's the harm in a little extra synth oil?"

Not trying to fuel the thread, just reflection on the fascination with the subject.
 
The entire subject is completely arbitrary. If the manufacturers called for 80:1, people would be swearing by 60:1. Point being, you all have no real reference for preferring 32:1. It's simply the mentality that "more is better," with no accurate benchmark.
 
The entire subject is completely arbitrary. If the manufacturers called for 80:1, people would be swearing by 60:1. Point being, you all have no real reference for preferring 32:1. It's simply the mentality that "more is better," with no accurate benchmark.

I mostly agree with this. But I will point out that up till buying my 3120 and 880 fairly recently, of the previous 6 new saws I have bought (stihls, huskys an dolmars) every one needed the factory HS limiters tweaked to allow the saw to run within manufacturer rpm specs. Bone stock, no mods. All ran a bit too lean even adjusted out all way.

So the manufacturer was saying "run this saw like this" while I disagreed. So I don't trust what they say completely.
 
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I mostly agree with this. But I will point out that up till buying my 3120 and 880 fairly recently, of the previous 6 new saws I have bought (stihls, huskys an dolmars) every one needed the factory HS limiters tweaked to allow the saw to run within manufacturer rpm specs. Bone stock, no mods. All ran a bit too lean even adjusted out all way.

So the manufacturer was saying "run this saw like this" while I disagreed. So I don't trust what they say completely.

Fair point. However, I would draw your attention to the fact that you actually have something tangible to base your carb needle settings on, not just speculation. I also suspect that the engineers did not design those saws to be ran where the caps end up being put.
 
Fair point. However, I would draw your attention to the fact that you actually have something tangible to base your carb needle settings on, not just speculation. I also suspect that the engineers did not design those saws to be ran where the caps end up being put.

I totally agree with both. And in fact I know it drives engineers crazy when politics makes such critical downstream decisions.

I have noticed in big business that the really big decisions are like the peter principle. They are made at one level above where the person deciding understands what the REAL issues are. So politics, budgets, etc. come more into play than the real issues. I'll try not to get started on that one...
 
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I mostly agree with this. But I will point out that up till buying my 3120 and 880 fairly recently, of the previous 6 new saws I have bought (stihls, huskys an dolmars) every one needed the factory HS limiters tweaked to allow the saw to run within manufacturer rpm specs. Bone stock, no mods. All ran a bit too lean even adjusted out all way.

So the manufacturer was saying "run this saw like this" while I disagreed. So I don't trust what they say completely.

Everyone forgets that the max wot is not a single number.. Stihl says it can be +/- 1000 rpm.... Consider the number as a rough target for a mid-size bar...
 

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