chippy
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How's the cost compare to a Stihl Light bar do you know? Cost of Stihl about AU$200 in 36"
the all aussie dribble thread!
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How's the cost compare to a Stihl Light bar do you know? Cost of Stihl about AU$200 in 36"
Been nice day down here and the veiws from top of Wellington were best seen in years and this as told by the dunny cleaner whos up here daily..
bigfellascott
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I wonder how many cheaper bars you could by for that sort of coin? would it be cost effective to do so?
2strokenut
One nut loose
went to the local gun shop today to buy a new shotgun and they sead to me id have to come back another day couse only one block can order the gun in i want.
bigfellascott
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I asume you mean bloke?
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Two maybe even three!
But the older I get the more I can't stand using **** gear and throwing poorly made, crap quality stuff away multiple times rather than relying on reliable gear to get 'er done. The job's phucking hard enough, battling darn near everything some days, without adding **** gear into the mix also. But if there is a great quality bar that happens to be cheap as chips, please lemme know and I'll be all over it.
bigfellascott
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Yeah I guess it would make sense if you are cutting wood on a daily basis but for the average firewood cutter I doubt it would make that much difference, I could be wrong but for me it's not that big of a difference if I use one bar over 20yrs or 2 or 3.Two maybe even three!
But the older I get the more I can't stand using **** gear and throwing poorly made, crap quality stuff away multiple times rather than relying on reliable gear to get 'er done. The job's phucking hard enough, battling darn near everything some days, without adding **** gear into the mix also. But if there is a great quality bar that happens to be cheap as chips, please lemme know and I'll be all over it.
What are you cutting?Two maybe even three!
But the older I get the more I can't stand using **** gear and throwing poorly made, crap quality stuff away multiple times rather than relying on reliable gear to get 'er done. The job's phucking hard enough, battling darn near everything some days, without adding **** gear into the mix also. But if there is a great quality bar that happens to be cheap as chips, please lemme know and I'll be all over it.
You can't cut them if you're cutting tallowood or blackbutt, with SBG you might be able to get away with a few.
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Could be anything from Saligna and other gums to Cypress to old pines. Would prefer 42" but only if reduced weight as I'm too much of a softcock to handle felling with a 42" solid bar for longer than a few trees. Got a solid 42" the 395 came with but would rather use reduced weight bar that will still be stiff enough if not stiffest. Trouble is Tsumura (and Sugi Hara in reduced weight) don't seem to go beyond 36".
460cixy
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I run a 42" on the 3120 to cut firewood with its not that bad
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Even the softcock I am can handle bucking but felling wears me out. Can get solid tsumura pretty cheap for the quality but reduced weight would suit me better and I'd stay safer for longer.
I was falling with 3120 & a 30" bar a little over 10 years ago & could go all day, there's not much call for a bar over that length as you can fall a tree diameter up to twice the bar length with no problems , it beats lugging something cumbersome & heavy around all day on the side of a mountain in thick scrub which you would only need once in a blue moon
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Not sure why I'm even biting but I'll be farked if I'm springboarding every stump on steep terrain because I read on the internet I should do the Swedish stump dance with a 30" bar instead. If it works for you, sweet as bro but I was hoping to avoid it.
chippy
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1
Its hard enough work as it is, throw your safety into the equation and anything that makes your job easier and less tiring is a good thing.
Once I go past 4 or 5 hours on a decent size saw, especially on a hot day, safety becomes a big issue and a well balanced saw that is lighter makes a big difference.
2strokenut
One nut loose
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
I didn't grow up dragging my old man's boat anchors through old growth for him before he gave me my shot at driving his wedges and progressing to felling my own trees. Sadly. I don't have forearms like popeye, or Neil.Technique is getting better but will never be great. Fact is, I'm getting older and weaker and it's a point that is rammed home whenever I'm on steep terrain felling largish (for around here) trees. A few trees with a solid 42" bar on such terrain and I'm needing a break. A few days of that and I'm ready to go buck firewood or sit on the tractor for a day or two.
Just last week I was on steep ground clambering through 20 years of private rubbish dump trying to fell small trees leaning over a state highway. So, not even big trees but it knocked me around. My mate, who only lasted half a day admitted he need a voltarin. I'm not that bad but it's only a matter of time.
The only thing I like about getting older is I'm less prone to trying to carry on when tired, because I know that's when I do stoopid things and bad **** happens. So if a reduced weight bar helps me get more trees over while staying safe, I'm going to keep finding one no matter how farking ridiculous those who know better think it is.
I could piss $200 up against a wall on a good night out but would rather spend it on a quality bar. If nobody else wants to do likewise, to each their own.
460cixy
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I'm all for pissing away $200
