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Ummmm Duh..........

It's because that's what you said.

You're taking what I said OUT OF CONTEXT.

When I said there's only half the force on the tip I meant there's only half the force on the tip as there would be if I were climbing SRT which is the way I usually climb.

I'll go back and edit it if that would make you feel better.
 
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I got no beef with you Cape, your pics in the pic thread are cool, but I think Bootboy would accept and maybe welcome pro's visiting his thread....:

Only if they have productive things to contribute and can avoid arguing...
 
You don't need a very big biner, just big enough to hold your weight will do fine. Two biners if you want to attach a good set of foot loops to the chord. I use the leg straps from a climbing harness.

About $15 biners will do the trick.

But someone might still want to buy ascenders to use instead, if they don't mind having their rope chewed to hell.

From the pic I thought it looked like a huge biner being used as a handle. Not that I'll be trying that anytime soon though....haven't had ascenders chew up my ropes yet, at least not any worse than using the ropes for normal work.


I missed the half the force on the tie in point the first time, that would only be if your tying off at the base of the tree climbing srt not choking it to the limb.
 
From the pic I thought it looked like a huge biner being used as a handle. Not that I'll be trying that anytime soon though....haven't had ascenders chew up my ropes yet, at least not any worse than using the ropes for normal work.

That's a Big Dan style biner, the shape helps prevent cross loading when using it with a climbing hitch.


I missed the half the force on the tie in point the first time, that would only be if your tying off at the base of the tree climbing srt not choking it to the limb.

Yes, if you tie off to anything other than yourself at a high angle, as when you tie to the base of the tree you double the load on the tip. The load decreases as the angle decreases though. I sometimes take advantage of the angles to get to the very tip ends of branches, by running my single line through a crotch way on on the end of the branch and climbing straight up to the tip to work the ends.
 
Only if they have productive things to contribute and can avoid arguing...

+1

Thats why I come in here, to get advice on topics that I don't understand or have questions about.

Just the other day, I began sharpening my own chains. Never did it before and asked in the chainsaw forum some questions. The information passed on to me from those with lots more knowledge than me was awesome and everything worked out great.

Bashing each other and threatening each other and tearing each other down for making mistakes or not having all the answers is just wrong. Nobody was born with all the answers and we've all become smarter by watching others fail and learning from them, realizing it could have been us or will be us if we don't learn from others.

BTW Jeff, I don't have pics anywhere in here. I don't know how to post them.
 
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today was pretty much a joke, i work for a municipality and me and another guy were in the crane truck today. the only jobs we do are jobs that people call in, we dont see a dead elm and take it down because its a good idea. anyways, we show up to this persons house with the crane, well...there sits a handful of very dead and old spruce twigs and a branch about 15 feet long and 4" in diameter at the big end.... just shook my head and threw it in the truck. unreal what people will call in. had a few other jobs that needed the crane, a huge sugar maple, pushin 5' diameter at the base. cant believe the power of that crane, makes life easy.
 
Cleared a hill a while back of all the small trees, oak mostly to allow sun down to the house and surrounding yard. Went back Saturday to clear the remaining underbrush with a Gravely. What a fight! Steep damp hill made for a 6 hour wrestling match. Even worse, I get home tonight and realize I've got poison ivy all over my upper thighs and junk. Very slow next couple of days for me.
 
Without picks it didn't happen. Without a rope it doesn't count.

Well anyway,

I did some Ddrt climbing(on a rope).

I tied into my saddle with a double fisherman's and tied a blakes with the tail.

I didn't have a pulley to advance my knot, so I placed a klemheist on my up rope and hooked it into a biner which I place under my knot, then I used my double foot loop the same way I do when climbing SRT. That worked pretty good, it was easy to move up, and the biner advanced the knot real well.

Only thing I didn't like about it is that I wasn't getting as much return for my effort as I would have like too, but did manage to climb to around 35' or 40' that way.

All in all it didn't take that much longer to get up there, it did force me to use muscles that I don't normally use that much when climbing, but I think it's a good way to climb.

One thing I really liked about it is the fact that I feel a lot more sucure climbing on a double line, there's not any bounce like there is on a long SRT climb, plus having two lines connected to me, and knowing there is only half the force on the TIP(I usually climb SRT, which puts twice the force on the tip as DdRT) makes me feel pretty good about it.

One problem I noticed is that you have to make sure there are no branches inside your loop, else you'll have to tie in with a lanyard and move your climbing loop across the branch.

Not much trouble on a big spread out tree, but on a tree with a lot of limbs I think it would be a real PITA.

"and knowing there is only half the force on the TIP(I usually climb SRT,which puts twice the force on the tip as DdRt)"
SHERLOCK HUH
THIS WAS QUOTED FROM YOUR POST AND IS ALL WRONG THIS IS WHY I POSTED SO SOME ONE ELSE WOULD NOT THINK YOU YOUR POST WAS CORRECT IF YOU PRE READ YOUR POST YOU MISSED THIS, OR YOU HAD IT BACKWARDS IN YOUR HEAD,

Paul
 
You're taking what I said OUT OF CONTEXT.

When I said there's only half the force on the tip I meant there's only half the force on the tip as there would be if I were climbing SRT which is the way I usually climb.

I'll go back and edit it if that would make you feel better.

Still wrong, if your SRT is secured at base of tree the force at TIP is same as DRT, if you ran a running bowline up on SRT then SRT would have your wieght X one , otherwise both techniques have approx. double your wieght at TIP, wish I could draw you a picture, I am not trying to argue, just don't want some one to get this backwards then pull the TIP out of a tree and on the way down say D##n Carb, heeee MMUUUUST BE dislex Splat.
Paul
 
Yesterday I ground a 60" stump and all the big roots that sat above grade. Took me 5 hours running the grinder nonstop. About 3 times as long as I thought I would
 
Prunned a 75' spruce tree in an urban area then went home and put in a big order to Sherrill Tree. Just to let everyone know baileys has the Vertex and Alveo helmets on sale for $92 and Sherrill Tree will price match them with there 150% gaurentee It came to $82 the petzl Am'D. Triact. And Williams Tri were also $14 and $15 and once price matched they came to $11 and $12. I was able to save quite a bit of money check it out they will always help you out at sherrill tree to get the best price.
 
You know the rules, pics or it didnt happen...lol

This is the stump before I flush cut it. Thats my ms460 with a 30" bar. By the time it was at ground level it was more than 60" across including some of the root buttresses. Hard to tell in this pic but I had to rake through 6" of duff all over to get close to grade.

d8ce2c0e-cc0f-1cb5.jpg
 
This is the stump before I flush cut it. Thats my ms460 with a 30" bar. By the time it was at ground level it was more than 60" across including some of the root buttresses. Hard to tell in this pic but I had to rake through 6" of duff all over to get close to grade.

d8ce2c0e-cc0f-1cb5.jpg

Nice saw.

30" bar is what I used to run on my 044 for the big stuff. I swap it out with the 36" bar and use it on my 660 now.

So now you need to find you a nice big job to finance a 660 for yourself ;)
 
thats one horny @$$ saw! today i want to shoot myself or someone else. I stumped allllllllll f'in day. they are widening a private road so they want all the stumps out so when they rip them out the roots dont destroy the whole road. so all along the side of this road where there used to be many many many many many trees, is stumps that need to be smashed into oblivion. back again tomorrow.
 
Still wrong, if your SRT is secured at base of tree the force at TIP is same as DRT, if you ran a running bowline up on SRT then SRT would have your wieght X one , otherwise both techniques have approx. double your wieght at TIP, wish I could draw you a picture, I am not trying to argue, just don't want some one to get this backwards then pull the TIP out of a tree and on the way down say D##n Carb, heeee MMUUUUST BE dislex Splat.
Paul

I wish you knew what you were talking about, that way you wouldn't be trolling up this post with your nonsense.

DRT each side of the rope holds HALF your weight, the TIP holds your weight * 1.

SRT your rope is connected to you, if you have the rope over a single crotch and tied to the base of the tree each side of the rope has your weight * 1, your weight * 2 sides of the rope = 2 * your weight on the TIP.

If you have the rope through multiple crotches the weight rests partially on each crotch, some may have more some may have less depending on the angles.

There, now you have something post in your blog. TROLL
 
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Yesterday I ground a 60" stump and all the big roots that sat above grade. Took me 5 hours running the grinder nonstop. About 3 times as long as I thought I would

I hate it when that happens!, but love it when it takes a lot less time than expected. Like with stumps that have been sitting for years some are hard and petrified and some turn to dust. Had one that turned to dust last friday , it took me 35 min total from the time I got out of the truck until I loaded the grinder back on the trailer. I'll post pic in a min.
 

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