The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

[slowp]

SP, sorry to hear of TUD passing. Thanks for the stories you have shared of your joint adventures. Ron

Thanks. Same to you.

The Used Dog may have been older than I thought. But the important thing is that he had 8 years of pretty good dog adventures. The little plastic airstream will seem a lot roomier now.

 

[northmanlogging]

Good little filter tool is a good strap wrench on a long handled 1/2" ratchet, haven't found a filter I couldn't break loose or a chain wrench works as well. Do you have a rough measurement of the track well that side of the machine lifted?

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You mean the overall length, or how much sag?

As it sits now the centerline of the idlers is just about at the end of the rail, and there is still a bunch of sag, one side very nearly touches the top of the frame.

Now I don't know much about tracks, but seems that that is just too loose.

As far as oil filters go, I have a vice grip looking thing I got from horrible freight years ago, works one most filters, this one I didn't have room to get my hand in there and turn it, the filter wrenches came with the machine so that was a bonus, they just didn't fit real well. Either way a guy shouldn't need a cheater bar to break loose an oil filter...

Seems like all the equipment I get was owned by monkeys at one point or another.

 

[Skeans]

You mean the overall length, or how much sag?

As it sits now the centerline of the idlers is just about at the end of the rail, and there is still a bunch of sag, one side very nearly touches the top of the frame.

Now I don't know much about tracks, but seems that that is just too loose.

As far as oil filters go, I have a vice grip looking thing I got from horrible freight years ago, works one most filters, this one I didn't have room to get my hand in there and turn it, the filter wrenches came with the machine so that was a bonus, they just didn't fit real well. Either way a guy shouldn't need a cheater bar to break loose an oil filter...

Seems like all the equipment I get was owned by monkeys at one point or another.

On our hydraulic filters even if they are hand tight I still need a a good 2 foot long handle ratchet to break them loose. On tracks you measure sag center of track to the track frame, seems like our 200 and 135 kobelco are 3 or 4" of sag.

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[northmanlogging]

On our hydraulic filters even if they are hand tight I still need a a good 2 foot long handle ratchet to break them loose. On tracks you measure sag center of track to the track frame, seems like our 200 and 135 kobelco are 3 or 4" of sag.

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probably like 6-8" of sag, and a short section too, not sure what the spec would be but seems like 1-2" is optimum.

I could probably get away with running it as is for a little while, I'm just thinking that there is a equipment repair guy 5 miles away, they can push the pins for a couple hundred in my driveway, where if I am out on a job somewheres, its a whole nother trip charge and what not.

 

[Skeans]

probably like 6-8" of sag, and a short section too, not sure what the spec would be but seems like 1-2" is optimum.

I could probably get away with running it as is for a little while, I'm just thinking that there is a equipment repair guy 5 miles away, they can push the pins for a couple hundred in my driveway, where if I am out on a job somewheres, its a whole nother trip charge and what not.

1 to 2 inches will be too tight when you figure the span and pressure it'll see if it's up on a rock or stump. 6 to 8 is a bit much but I'm not sure with that much if you'll be able to pull a link or not it takes a ton of stretch to pull one.

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[northmanlogging]

its 6-8 on both sides of the upper roller, plus the travel of the idlers is more then half of what a link takes up, should be ok.

 

[Skeans]

its 6-8 on both sides of the upper roller, plus the travel of the idlers is more then half of what a link takes up, should be ok.

You need to lift it and roll the tracks so all the slack is on the bottom otherwise you might end up with a situation where you're having to re add that link.

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[northmanlogging]

its much more hanging off the bottom...

 

[Bwildered]

One of the pins will have a countersunked drill hole in it, that's the master pin & will be able to be driven out with a sledge & drift, make a drift holder out of a big block of wood with a hole bored through it, get the pin at about 4 o'clock on the sprocket & drive it out, oxy a link out & away you go.
Trackski

 

[northmanlogging]

Gods damned, a useful tip...

Picked up a few exter track bolts with the new thump switches yesterday.

but I think she needs to move to a job before I start messing with the tracks.

Got a couple cans of hitatchi orange (what they call Cab Yellow?) I'm ****in color blind and I can still see its orange?

Anyway with a touch of luck and some decent weather she'll be purtier then a $3 whore in a sideshow.

 

[northmanlogging]

She IS purtier than a $3 whore in a side show...

Also, when the thumb isn't working I guess its standard procedure to wire both sides to the same switch so that you can stand back and watch it try to burn up...

In other news the thumb works again, not sure if its going the right direction as of now cause the thumb is still 20mi away, but the switch works on both sides now, took solder, a new soldering iron, JB weld, 80mi in the crummy, a dremmel, a new multi meter, 2 trips to napa and conning the wifey into climbing in and playing with switches and bare wires to sort the problem out.

There's just 3 wires... how hard is that to **** up anyway

 

[HuskStihl]

hel I probably rode snomobiles with em out here...

So an update on Peaches, the hoe.

deere controls are now Cat controls, which once you figure out where the lines go, and what not is really easy, I made a video but its horribly shaky, may or may not post that one, essentially the 4 lines go to one valve block from there just criss cross em, i.e. right upper to left lower, right lower to left upper, left upper to right lower, left lower to right upper.

Not knowing this I made some mistakes... there is now a big ass hole in the font yard... my first guess was wrong, I moved boom up to stick in, and stick out to boom down... but in then end an hour later or so, shes working like a proper excavator.

That disturbing oil leak turned out to be a loose filter... yes a loose filter... its got 2 one was really just snug, and probably didn't need a wrench to remove it, the other took a special filter socket and a pair of screw drivers crammed in it to make it not spin, attached to a half inch drive ratchet and at 4' cheater bar... but that one wasn't leaking...

the tracks are pretty much going to need a link taken out, I can't afford to be replacing chains and sprockets right now, so the best option is pull a link, removed grease zerk to see what happens, bunch of grease came out... so reinstall zerk and pump it up only to have it just stall out...

Some one remind me to take some before and after picks of pressure warshing the junk machines I buy, knock some of the grunge off this ole girl and she almost looks new. Some of the stuff I was sure was rust turned out to just be muck, and clear some of the moss off and the paint brightens right up.

Um.....I thought we had agreed on Mitsuki?

 

[Skeans]

Here's some of the master links I know of to remove a link don't remove your master take out one before or after it. On our shovels they don't have any masters they are all the same pins all the way around.

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[northmanlogging]

Thumbs on, and working she moves to the job Monday or Tuesday, sorta up to the truck.

As a bonus I managed to get the switch wired correctly, at the time I was dinking with it, I didn't have the cylinder or thumb to figure out which side did what. So of course I guessed...

I ended up soldering the wires direct to the solenoid, fitting was unavailable, and solder is cheap, Had to solder the micro switches in anyway, since somebody at micro switches r us, cant figure out blade connectors.

 

[northmanlogging]

A little better picture of her

 

[Skeans]

Thumbs on, and working she moves to the job Monday or Tuesday, sorta up to the truck.

As a bonus I managed to get the switch wired correctly, at the time I was dinking with it, I didn't have the cylinder or thumb to figure out which side did what. So of course I guessed...

I ended up soldering the wires direct to the solenoid, fitting was unavailable, and solder is cheap, Had to solder the micro switches in anyway, since somebody at micro switches r us, cant figure out blade connectors.

Ok here's the crimps you need http://m.harborfreight.com/9-1-2-half-inch-wire-crimping-tool-36411.html, your tool needs just tripled look at the biggest fitting you have and you'll need all the way down including metric.

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[northmanlogging]

yer assuming that there was something to crimp onto... there was just non standard goofy ass looking terminals, too wide for a 16g blade conector, and not enough room for a 14g connector... so solder is it.

 

[Skeans]

yer assuming that there was something to crimp onto... there was just non standard goofy ass looking terminals, too wide for a 16g blade conector, and not enough room for a 14g connector... so solder is it.

Yeah sorry, is it a rocker on top of the joystick?

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[northmanlogging]

yup... all better now


i suck at wiring but im pretty good at soldering

 

[Skeans]

yup... all better now


i suck at wiring but im pretty good at soldering

Matt have you ever thought about like a logmax 6000 head? that's about the right size for a decent amount of the wood around. If you do decide you want to do a Fabtek head let me know and you're welcome to come out and try ours for a day or so.

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