The "Not So Pro" discussion thread...of course Pros are welcome!

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picked up a air arc torch yesterday and played with it today.

3/16 works just fine with a 225amp welder, and that shizz is the shizz, messed about for like an hour with it, grinding what I air arced would have taken at least 6 hours, and gods know how many disks.
Good purchase!
Air arc is a great tool isn't it? It works so well following cracks in flat plate. We use our 225 mostly with a little gas compressor. If there is a big job we use a 300 amp with a rented screw compressor. Then you can burn all day long without a break for air to build.
 
picked up a air arc torch yesterday and played with it today.

3/16 works just fine with a 225amp welder, and that shizz is the shizz, messed about for like an hour with it, grinding what I air arced would have taken at least 6 hours, and gods know how many disks.
I had to rent a welder the other day to weld up a rock guard and sprocket plate after a final change on our 653E that had a mode called arc gouging I've never seen before be interesting to try.

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Right, I meant what difference the mode made. Let me know when you find out, or someone explain if possible.
Will do I didn't have any gouging that day I was tempted to try it but it was a rental and pouring down rain with a machine that had been down for too long. Where's a good place to find a 1210B axle housing for a bogie out your way?

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My engine drive compressor pushes like 10+cfm, it did pretty good, pressure would taper off a bit, but not enough to really effect anything.

What I need to do is read up on arc gouging a bit, seems that if you screw up some how, you get some carburizing going in, and it can be a pain in the **** to get around... I read enough of the manual to figure out it was bad, then just blazed on without a clue...

Like step one insert rod with air jets on bottom, keep air on to prevent carborizing.... cool off to the races...

Manuals we don't need no stinking manuals...
 
My engine drive compressor pushes like 10+cfm, it did pretty good, pressure would taper off a bit, but not enough to really effect anything.

What I need to do is read up on arc gouging a bit, seems that if you screw up some how, you get some carburizing going in, and it can be a pain in the **** to get around... I read enough of the manual to figure out it was bad, then just blazed on without a clue...

Like step one insert rod with air jets on bottom, keep air on to prevent carborizing.... cool off to the races...

Manuals we don't need no stinking manuals...
Don't ask me how I know but you can lay a layer of carbon onto the material easiest way to think of it is keep the sparks blowing in front of the direction of travel. If a layer of carbon ends up getting deposited you'll cuss for a while with a grinder.



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Will do I didn't have any gouging that day I was tempted to try it but it was a rental and pouring down rain with a machine that had been down for too long. Where's a good place to find a 1210B axle housing for a bogie out your way?

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Try lakeshore equipment, delich equipment, woodland equipment or some place in marinesco Michigan that scraps machines whose name slips my mind.

They should all have websites for phone #'s
 
Try lakeshore equipment, delich equipment, woodland equipment or some place in marinesco Michigan that scraps machines whose name slips my mind.

They should all have websites for phone #'s
Thank you sir.

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There is also Richards machinery and Pat's heavy equipment. A&13 might have something too or I bet they would know where to go.
 
There is also Richards machinery and Pat's heavy equipment. A&13 might have something too or I bet they would know where to go.
Thanks for the info I'll go out in a bit and get a picture of the damage from the bearing that came apart.

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That's the one in marinesco I referred to. Haven't ever had cause to deal with them so far.
So far that's the only place I've found that has one since the shaft isn't available anymore.

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