The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

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Slide the cylinder shroud off the power head
View attachment 286591

Here you can see why you need to change the shroud. the flat muffler covers most of the cooling fins but when you swap to the ducted style there would be a huge gap where the flat muffler was and all the cooling air would just go under the fins instead of across them and the saw would over heat very quickly.
View attachment 286595

Remove the muffler. usaually the exhaust gasket is in good shape and does not require replacement.
View attachment 286596

If you get a muffler from a DSP saw it will have a hole drilled in the back by the support screw. I put some high temp rtv on the spot where the DSP port would be on the cylinder to seal the hole. the screw boss is already drilled and tapped for the muffler support screw.
View attachment 286598
 
Bolt on the muffler duct tighting the exhaust port screws first then the support screw. don't forget the lock plate for the port screws
View attachment 286600

using needle nosed pliers, crimp the lock plate ears on the flat of the screw head
View attachment 286601

Here you can see how the new shroud hugs the cylinder fins tightly. No overheating here!
View attachment 286604

Install the cover on the duct with the two allen cap screws and reinstall the other assemblies. install is reversed from removal and there you go, a complete duct style muffler. if you use the reed style cover, go enjoy the nice idle pop these saws are know for!
View attachment 286610
 
1-10 600010
1-10 600020
2-10 600025
Super 2-10 A 600026
LG 2
Super LG-2 Automatic 600420
2-10G 600035
2-10 Power Sharp 600030
3-10 None assigned
3-10E 600045
LG-6A 600410D
LG-6A 600411
CP55 600430
Pro Mac 55 600031A
Pro Mac 55 600031B
Pro Mac 55 600031D
Pro Mac 55 600031E
Pro Mac 55 600031F
Pro Mac 55 600031U
Pro Mac 555 600033A
Pro Mac 555 600033B
Pro Mac 555 600033D
Pro Mac 555 600033E
Pro Mac 555 600033F
Pro Mac 555 600033U
Pro Mac 570 600034A/B/E/J
Pro Mac 60 600036
4-10 600050
5-10 None assigned
5-10 A 600055
5-10 E 600070
5-10 G 600060
5-10 G 600065
6-10 600057
6-10A 600055
Super 6-10A 600055
7-10 600052
7-10A 600052
OEM 7-10 Yellow 400261
OEM 7-10 Blue 400261
CP70 600440
CP70L 600441
G70 600410
G70 600410A
G70 600410B
G70 600410D
G70 600410E
LG-6A 600410D
LG-6A 600411
Super LG 6A 600410
DE80 600155D
SP60 600037
SP60 600037
SP70 600443
SP80 600435
SP81 600438
SP81E 600439


I haven't had the down time yet to get serious about documenting the PM model 10 Series saws. Guess I need to travel a bit more...

Mark


Okay, I give up! I bought a saw today that has a 10-10 Automatic air filter cover on it but the model number is 600002U. I don't see the model number listed here anywhere... OOPS! Never mind. I found it in an earlier post.

Regards,
Jeff
 
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You're welcome! I love how universal the parts are on the 10 series. they are like Honda civics! only difference is what ever you do with the mac it's always tasteful!
 
I have an older mac 10-10 with the pull start on the right side. all black bae cover, no brake, manual oiler only i think
 
Auto oil pump is in the oil tank, may be out of adjustment. One screw holds the front of the tank and oilier can be accessed.
 
Here r the pix

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Nice 10-10! I have 2 like it, those are some of the lightest 54cc saws you will ever lay hands on, even by today's standards, and way more torque. :rock:
 
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Any idea what year it was produced?

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Look under the airfilter, there should be a tag near the base of the Carburetor, the Numbers on the tag will help ID the year. My guess would be 1967-69.
 
I took the carb off and there was a small plate there, but there were no numbers on it. I looked sgain under the saw and it looks as though someone took the numbers off, but i found the letter K stamped close to the clutch assy. Any help?

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Also it seems as though the guy who gave me my 10-10 RH used tranny fluid as bar lube. I have to tear it apart and see what damage was done. Manual or auto oil function gets me mothing.

With this said, does anyone have a service manual for a 10-10 Right hand start? 67-69 is the production year i need....

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I have an older mac 10-10 with the pull start on the right side. all black bae cover, no brake, manual oiler only i think

The 10-10 i have like that was manual oil only until i converted it.
 
I found that out today. That thing got HOT. was tryin to find out why no fluid. Tore it apart n spun motor, no lube. Pushed button n went everywhere.

Saw no adjustment screw under oil case cover

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Hey guys another question. I ran my Super XL-AO and the 10-10 today and the homelite left my mac in the dust. Like literally.

Both saws are running hardnose bars. My homie has a 20 and the mac a 16. Both running fine and same .050 && 3/8 chains. Semi-chisel. I would figure they would be neck and neck. Cutting wood 10" in dia.

Is something wrong with ole' yeller or what? Both saws are comparable size...

If this shouldnt be happening let me kno what u think. I love ole' yeller. People definately take notice when hes runnin.

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Hey guys another question. I ran my Super XL-AO and the 10-10 today and the homelite left my mac in the dust. Like literally.

Both saws are running hardnose bars. My homie has a 20 and the mac a 16. Both running fine and same .050 && 3/8 chains. Semi-chisel. I would figure they would be neck and neck. Cutting wood 10" in dia.

Is something wrong with ole' yeller or what? Both saws are comparable size...

If this shouldnt be happening let me kno what u think. I love ole' yeller. People definately take notice when hes runnin.

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If both saws are healthy, then a large difference between the two would probably come from the chains. Depth gauge settings, filing angles, etc....
 
There could be many little things adding up causing your mac to lay down. are your points clean and set to .018"? is the carb clean, fresh, and properly tuned? or does it need a kit and gone through? are all the cylinder fins clean and unobstructed? compression over 130 psi or under 100:msp_sad:? My 10-10 will pull a 24" bar with ease (as well as a 54cc saw can anyway!) Just a few little things wrong can add up to one big problem. when I get a new saw i remove all the covers, blow everything out, clean/adjust the points, rebuild the carb,(kits are only $7 at my local shop) check for leaking gaskets/seals, loose bolts and so on. when i got my 10-10 the point were set at .011"! and the carb diaphram was almost leather!
 
I cleaned out the whole thing. I weighed all the crap i pulled out of it and now my saw is about 2.36# lighter lol. Ill check the points. I rebuild every carb i get on my saws b/c most ppl in my area cant maintain equipment like they should.

All filters are new. Compression is 128#.

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