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You know I must be drain banaged (brain damaged). I know what that threaded hole was for. Trying to cook super, make sure homework was done and do about 30 things to get ready for bed. Cannot multi task any more.
I should be up for some cutting Saturday. Other than saw, gas and oil what else do I need to bring? Ropes, chain, winch, pole saw???
Not sure but don't think I have anything going on. I was hoping that was an auto pump. Maybe I can retro fit one on. Not the end of the world. Just glad I found that screw and got that oil leak fixed. Starting to realize that macs need lock tight. Had several screws loose like the owner.

Brian
 
Just back from Brazil, trying to get my feet under me again.

Bar plates help protect the surrounding parts but are not essential to operating the saw.

Yours has a version of the check valve where the automatic oil pump would mount. Search for the 10 Series poker thread for more photos and information. I think all of the saws have the impulse port open, it is simply blocked by the check valve assembly. Automatic oil pumps are listed on eBay all the time.

Your pancake muffler appears to have a hole blown out of it, not the reed type since it has the louvered opening.

Clutch drum is an "Auto Mac" with a rim type sprocket welded to the drum. Post a photo of the drive links on the chain, I expect they will say 350 or 358 for .354 chain in either .050 or .058 gauge.

Mark
 
The chain does have the marking of 358 on it. It has 61 DL. The bar has a part no. 63541 VG.
I found a picture of a muffler like mine should be and where the hole is there is a director plate on it. I will post a picture of it. I am pretty good with a torch. Maybe able to fix it but suspect the rust may have it too far gone. I have found a few out on the web for a 1010 but none just like mine. I would like to put the auto oilier on it. I am not used to a manual oilier. The last one I operated was 30 some years ago and I am afraid I will forget to oil. Other than these few issues the saw starts and runs great. Just loud as thunder with that exhaust the way it is. I do plan on replacing or fixing that problem.
What bar and chain combo would you suggest for this saw?

Thank You for your help
Brian
 

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Don't you ever sleep? I'm fighting a bug and got up to breathe better and here you are still at it.

I'll let you know more about Saturday after my inspection.

Thanks,

Ron
 
Allergies here too plus a little parting gift of a wicked sinus demon that my littlest granddaughter left us with last week.

Anyway on Saturday's menu are three tree large tops, each is about 80' long. The one on the right is around 3' at the bottom. Might just bring one of 1010 big brothers with me if all goes well.

IMG_1457.JPG IMG_1460.JPG IMG_1461-001.JPG


Some more for another day.
IMG_1465-001.JPG Ron
 
Yep, you will have to bring the big saw. All I have in running condition right now is a Husqvarna 350 with a 18" bar and a Husqvarna 235 with a 14" bar. Going to have to spend some time this week getting my chains sharp. As I asked before, do I need to bring anything else. I have a side X side and ATV with winches on both. Not sure how the access is from the road to where the trees are. Can we get a truck back to them? If not maybe we can use the side x side to haul things out to where the trucks are. I see dozer tracks in the photo so I am assuming a truck can get back up to it. My pickup is 2WD. Might have to hitch a ride or walk to where the trees are.
 
Easy access. Bring your usual cutting gear whatever that may be and some water or other beverage. We will be right next to the nursing home so if I pass out you can just sign me in.

Seriously, the brush will be tremendous and all the usual brush hands (i.e.. the inmates) will be at the lot running splitters as Saturday is the last official day. I may bring a tractor or a skid steer. Haven't decided what would be best.

Any chance the 1010 will be ready by then?

Ron

PS I see my words are out of order - those are three large tree tops.
 
I had a guy give me a Pro 10-10 60013. It was dry of fuel so I put fuel in it and tried to start it. It hit a few times and kind of ran for a few mins. I cleaned the carb and it started up and ran ok for about 8 to 10 mins and then started acting like it was running lean on the low end and did not want to idle. Then it kept getting worse until it quit. I thought I might still have carb issues and cleaned the carb again. Still done the same thing. I took the carb off my regular 10-10 and put it on this saw and it done the same thing. I removed the starter side and it was very dirty but not enough to let it over heat. I cleaned it up and put it back together and it still done the same thing. This saw don't look like it has very many hours on it but could the coil or the condenser be breaking down when it is getting hot? The points look a bit burnt and will clean them next. I am thinking that my next thing to try is the condenser if that don't fix it then try the coil. Does this sound right? This is a nice saw and would really like to cut some wood with it.
I have a reg 10-10 a super 10-10 and a pro 10-10. What is the difference in each of them? They look almost the same to me.

Brian
 

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I think I have found the problem. The right side (behind the clutch) crank seal had a bunch of string wound around it and got wound up in the seal and burned it out. I think it was somewhat holding until it would get hot and start leaking. I just happened to look under the saw and seen a string hanging down from behind the clutch. I pulled the clutch off and found it. Now I just need to find a seal. Thank You
Brian
 
The PTO side seal is SKF 6119, 5/8" shaft and 7/8" O.D. Should be locally available from any good bearing house.

It may be possible to pull that seal without completely disassembling the saw, but I don't remember if I have even tried. I usually take the oil tank/crankcase bottom off and remove the old seal. I like to install the new seal part way in the bore, reassemble the clamshell, then seat the seal squarely in the bore. I have been using Threebond 1184 for a while to seal the crankcase halves including the seal/bearing bores. I have had very good success with the Threebond.

You might as well change the flywheel side seal if you end up taking it apart. That one is also a standard size but I don't have the information right at my fingertips. That seal can be pulled without disassembling the saw by drilling a small hole and using a sheet metal screw and a slide hammer.

IMG_3780 (640x480).jpg

IMG_3786 (640x480).jpg

Some of the early 10 Series saws had a larger diameter (O.D.) seal that matched the bearing OD, later models had the bearing with the wider outer race that the seal presses into.

IMG_3790 (640x480).jpg

Mark
 

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