Thinking of ChainSawMilling (?CSM??)

[Greenstar]

Hi Guys,

Im thinking of buying an Alaskan Chainsaw Milling set-up for milling some boards from big trees we remove on jobsites. I've owned a tree service for 15years and still never used one.

I was thinking about either a Granberg, or a Panther Panther Chainsaw Mills
I dont know if there are any others that are worth it because these are the only decent looking ones I've found. I cant decide between the two. Any suggestions?
-Granberg seems to be lighter weight, more user friendly and more easily adjustable, made of aluminum.
-Panther seems to be a simpler, cheaper, yet maybe stronger, steel set-up,, which also consequently looks like it makes adjusting depth and thickness more difficult?

I have a Stihl 660 Magnum. I hope I can do some damage with this saw, without wasting the saw in the process.. Will this just abuse this saw? Or is it a good size for this?

Thanks guys

ben

ps.. I was gonna fabricate some 2" angle iron into rails, with different size width options depending on the size of the tree, to use for the first cuts.
Is it totally necessary to fasten this to the log, or can it just be positioned on it carefully and securely? Will this be a problem? It seems pretty simple

 

[gemniii]

<snip>
I was thinking about either a Granberg, or a Panther Panther Chainsaw Mills

That's about it, besides Build Your Own.

I dont know if there are any others that are worth it because these are the only decent looking ones I've found. I cant decide between the two. Any suggestions?
-Granberg seems to be lighter weight, more user friendly and more easily adjustable, made of aluminum.
-Panther seems to be a simpler, cheaper, yet maybe stronger, steel set-up,, which also consequently looks like it makes adjusting depth and thickness more difficult?

Never used a panther but I think it's a good design. It may be heavier than the Alaskan, but how often and how far are you going to have to lug it?

I'm sure kpantherpro can chime in here.

I think my Mark III, 660 w/ 42" bar, chain, oil, fuel pushes about 25lbs or 30lbs.

I have a Stihl 660 Magnum. I hope I can do some damage with this saw, without wasting the saw in the process.. Will this just abuse this saw? Or is it a good size for this?

Great saw for it. Either muff mod or put on a DP and upgrade the oiler, slap on a 42" bar, and you can do about 36" cuts w/ an aux oiler. I'm not sure it'll go much bigger.

ps.. I was gonna fabricate some 2" angle iron into rails, with different size width options depending on the size of the tree, to use for the first cuts.
Is it totally necessary to fasten this to the log, or can it just be positioned on it carefully and securely? Will this be a problem? It seems pretty simple

I've done it both ways. Fasten it.

 

[rapattack]

definitely fasten your guide fence, with out doing so your finished product would most likely have a twist.

 

[hunt22j]

Muffler modification

what options are there in terms of modifying a chainsaw muffler? This is the first time I have ever heard of it. I have a 281 Husky on a GB 36" CSM and trying to make the most of my equipment. I am currently in the process of building an auxillary oiler and really appreciate all the tips I've been reading.

 

[BobL]

what options are there in terms of modifying a chainsaw muffler? This is the first time I have ever heard of it. I have a 281 Husky on a GB 36" CSM and trying to make the most of my equipment.

In terms of improving performance, options range from just removing the spark arrestor to a full blown 2 stroke racing pipe. A basic muffler mod usually involves opening up the internals and external opening so the exhaust flows more freely - the way this is best done depends on the specific muffler. For some saws replacement off the shelf mufflers are available - I don't know what is available for Huskys. Whatever you do retuning is essential as most mods will lean out a saw.

 

[gemniii]

what options are there in terms of modifying a chainsaw muffler? This is the first time I have ever heard of it. I have a 281 Husky on a GB 36" CSM and trying to make the most of my equipment. I am currently in the process of building an auxillary oiler and really appreciate all the tips I've been reading.

Go to the main chainsaw forum for more tricks on muff mod.
I've read that some saws actually don't benefit much from a muff mod, because they run pretty good as is.
For instance if you buy a 660 in Oz it COMES with a dual port muffler.

 

[Greenstar]

In terms of improving performance, options range from just removing the spark arrestor to a full blown 2 stroke racing pipe. A basic muffler mod usually involves opening up the internals and external opening so the exhaust flows more freely - the way this is best done depends on the specific muffler. For some saws replacement off the shelf mufflers are available - I don't know what is available for Huskys. Whatever you do retuning is essential as most mods will lean out a saw.

What is the best way to muffler mod a Stihl 660 Magnum ? Is taking off the spark arrestor sufficient?

And dude, do you know where is the best place to buy an auxillary oiler, and what is a DP ?

Thanks

ps. I think I might just get the Granberg seeing that the Panther takes 3-4 weeks for shipment!
take care

 

[BobL]

What is the best way to muffler mod a Stihl 660 Magnum ? Is taking off the spark arrestor sufficient?

Removing the spark arrestor really only helps significantly if it dirty. The exhaust opening on stock 660s is too small so it needs opening up - also the internals need opening up.
Do a search for Muffler mods in the chainsaw forum and you will see lots of possibilities.

And dude, do you know where is the best place to buy an auxillary oiler

I don't know the best place as I have always made my own.
I'd say start at Bailey's a go from there. See here.

and what is a DP ?

DP stands for Dual Port. Baileys seems to have them for other stihls except the 660. But it is a stock stihl part, at least in Australia anyway.

I think I might just get the Granberg seeing that the Panther takes 3-4 weeks for shipment!

I think that's probably because they are a small company and they make them up when they get the order so if you want to support a smaller company some patience my be required.

 

[gemniii]

Removing the spark arrestor really only helps significantly if it dirty. The exhaust opening on stock 660s is too small so it needs opening up - also the internals need opening up.
Do a search for Muffler mods in the chainsaw forum and you will see lots of possibilities.

Bob - When you write "too small" is that for the USA models or also the Aussie DP models? Do I need to further muff mod my DP 660?

DP stands for Dual Port. Baileys seems to have them for other stihls except the 660. But it is a stock stihl part, at least in Australia anyway.

I bought mine from Bailey's, maybe they are just OOS. I was thinking of buying another DP for my ported 660, and maybe a jet change.

 

[RedArrow]

I have a Panthermill2 and love it!