bert0168
ArboristSite Guru
That and it almost looks like your cutter is too big, is it matched to the chain correctly?
Timberline sharpening results
- Thread starter memory
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memory
ArboristSite Guru
The cutter should be the right size, 13/64. The chain is a 3/8 Stihl full chisel. I did not actually measure it to make sure. I will do that when I get a chance. Even when sharpening a .325 chain, I am getting the same results. There is just no hook in the cutters. I am using a supposedly 3/16 cutter on the .325 semi chisel chain.
I think for now, I will stick with hand filing. I just didn't think I was doing a very good job of keeping the angles the same. I also think I have a little trouble sharpening both the left and right teeth the same. I would assume most people have this trouble.
Kind of disappointed in the Timberline. I should get better results especially for what the tool costs. Who knows, maybe I got a defective tool. It very well could be possible that I am not getting it setup correctly too. But I have watched all kinds of videos on how to use this tool over and over.
I may contact Timberline and send him pics or maybe even a video and see what he has to say.
I think for now, I will stick with hand filing. I just didn't think I was doing a very good job of keeping the angles the same. I also think I have a little trouble sharpening both the left and right teeth the same. I would assume most people have this trouble.
Kind of disappointed in the Timberline. I should get better results especially for what the tool costs. Who knows, maybe I got a defective tool. It very well could be possible that I am not getting it setup correctly too. But I have watched all kinds of videos on how to use this tool over and over.
I may contact Timberline and send him pics or maybe even a video and see what he has to say.
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Be careful with .325 chain. Some has a small cutter and needs to be sharpened with a small cutter like you would use on 3/8" Low Profile. The big .325 (like Stihl RS) can be sharpened with a 3/16" cutter no problem.
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I just thought I would post these to show a little bit more about the angle of the cutter. (Plus I need practice posting pictures)
This chain was ground on my Oregon grinder using a borzon wheel. I have heard guys getting the same results with the Timberline.
The chain has about 40% life left. It needs touched up, I have cut close to 4 cords since it has seen the grinder. (Cutting Fir, Tamarack and pine that is)
Hope this helps a little!
This chain was ground on my Oregon grinder using a borzon wheel. I have heard guys getting the same results with the Timberline.
The chain has about 40% life left. It needs touched up, I have cut close to 4 cords since it has seen the grinder. (Cutting Fir, Tamarack and pine that is)
Hope this helps a little!
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
The easiest way for me to explain it(maybe someone else can do better
) is by using a knife as an example. If you have a dull knife and hold it with the "sharp" side up in good light, you'll see some shine on the cutting edge. This is where it has either been worn flat or the edge has rolled over from a lack of support(too much angle). If you do the same thing with a sharp knife, you will not see any light reflected from the cutting edge.Looking at the picture below, the part circled in red is what everyone is talking about. Rather than a sharp point at the corner, you have a flat, and flats along the upper edge. This cutter isn't sharp.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I understand about the reflection now. When everybody talked about reflection, I thought they were talking about the whole tooth. That is where I got confused.
Did you guys see the second set of pics? I went back to hand filing for now. I just can't seem to do any good with the Timberline.
Did you guys see the second set of pics? I went back to hand filing for now. I just can't seem to do any good with the Timberline.
Can anyone see the pictures I posted awhile ago?
Im on a different computer and I can no longer see them!!
Im on a different computer and I can no longer see them!!
memory
ArboristSite Guru
Can anyone see the pictures I posted awhile ago?
Im on a different computer and I can no longer see them!!
I don't see them either. There is just 3 small square boxes that says img where the pics should be.
Another question, are rakers made out of harder steel than the rest of the chain? On the 3/8 Stihl chain, it seems like I have to file the crap out of the rakers to get them to go down. I have contemplated using a small grinder with a real light and steady touch. Anybody ever use a grinder on the rakers?
Looks like I need more practice!!!...VERY frustrating! I will search how to post pictures.
What kind of file are you using? Is it in good condition? I have always used a 6" raker file and it works great.
One thing I find that works better for me is to file "out" (Im having a lack of words right now). What im trying to say is with your saw on the bench with the power head on your left. File all your left hand rakers.
With the power head on your right file the right hand rakers. Make sense?
I find it files smoother and takes more material with each stroke.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I use the 6" raker file as well. Yes that does make sense.
What website do you use for photos? I use photobucket and just copy the img code and click on the link button at the top of the post and copy the img code into the space provided.
What website do you use for photos? I use photobucket and just copy the img code and click on the link button at the top of the post and copy the img code into the space provided.
Give that a try and see what you think about filing that way.
Looks like I need to sign up for a photo bucket account. This FORMAT and SEARCH function SUCKS beyond belief!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Who knows its probably just me.
Im hoping to get the pictures figured out later today, I still have to feed.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried using two different raker files(brand new) I have on several chains and found that they just didn't want to cut. I went down to Lowes and bought a 6" Nicholson mill file and it cuts like it should. Actually, I think it probably cuts a little too fast.
A couple of years ago I considered buying a Timberline when they first came out. I decided against it primarily because you still have to lower the depth gauges (rakers). I can do both with my Oregon 511a. Then if I really want a super sharp chain, I reach for my round files to finish the job.
Lol, that "hump" is not hurting anything. Absolutely positively nothing.....
Stihl working hard
Is it Friday yet
I agree that chain looks thrashed to death
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I just found part of the problem with the Timberline. I measured the cutters and the one I have been using for the 3/8 chain is actually a 7/32 cutter when it should be a 13/64 cutter. So that is why the cutter was sitting too high in the tooth, it is a size to big. I measured the other cutters I have and they measured right. I used a drill bit gauge to measure them.
I got some other pics of a different chain I want you to check out. I will post them in a little bit, got some stuff to do outside.
Here is a pic of a .325 chain on the JD CS56. Now I know this chain looks like it has it metal and that is what I wanted to discuss. The thing is the teeth seem to be perfectly flat and not rolled under like it looks like in the pic and all the teeth look like this. Would hitting mud or dirt cause the teeth to look like this? I do know last time we used it, he did hit some mud and it dulled instantly but he tried to keep cutting after I tried to get him to stop.
Another thing is I have made 20 strokes with a file and it still looks like this. From the front, the tooth looks sharp but not sure. I am debating to grind the tooth all the way back to get rid of the possibly damaged part. Again it looks sharp from the front. Has anybody else had a chain look like this but still cut like brand new? This is a semi chisel chain.
Another thing is I am hitting the tie straps on every tooth as you can see in the pic. How do I avoid this? I am using a 3/16 file with the right guide and I am holding the file level. I would think as the tooth gets smaller, it will get worse.
Back to the 3/8 chain, some of you have said the chain looks trashed. Okay, I don't know why it should be. I haven't been doing anything out of the ordinary with this chain like cutting stumps or anything like that. I have just been cutting firewood. Alot of the wood we cut can be dirty, they are logs that have been drug through the dirt. Would cutting dirty wood cause a chain to look like that?
I got some other pics of a different chain I want you to check out. I will post them in a little bit, got some stuff to do outside.
Here is a pic of a .325 chain on the JD CS56. Now I know this chain looks like it has it metal and that is what I wanted to discuss. The thing is the teeth seem to be perfectly flat and not rolled under like it looks like in the pic and all the teeth look like this. Would hitting mud or dirt cause the teeth to look like this? I do know last time we used it, he did hit some mud and it dulled instantly but he tried to keep cutting after I tried to get him to stop.
Another thing is I have made 20 strokes with a file and it still looks like this. From the front, the tooth looks sharp but not sure. I am debating to grind the tooth all the way back to get rid of the possibly damaged part. Again it looks sharp from the front. Has anybody else had a chain look like this but still cut like brand new? This is a semi chisel chain.
Another thing is I am hitting the tie straps on every tooth as you can see in the pic. How do I avoid this? I am using a 3/16 file with the right guide and I am holding the file level. I would think as the tooth gets smaller, it will get worse.
Back to the 3/8 chain, some of you have said the chain looks trashed. Okay, I don't know why it should be. I haven't been doing anything out of the ordinary with this chain like cutting stumps or anything like that. I have just been cutting firewood. Alot of the wood we cut can be dirty, they are logs that have been drug through the dirt. Would cutting dirty wood cause a chain to look like that?
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memory
ArboristSite Guru
[URL=http://s170.photobucket.com/user/clarke_017/media/IMG_0716_zps89f8567c.jpg.html]
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I sent Timberline an email about the wrong size cutter but probably will not hear from them until Monday since it is the weekend.
[/URL]I sent Timberline an email about the wrong size cutter but probably will not hear from them until Monday since it is the weekend.
See how the plating is all rubbed off the top of the cutter? In order for that chain to be sharp you need to remove all that material and have a nice square working corner (or point).
If the chain in this picture cuts ok right now it will not stay sharp very long at all.
Yes cutting wood drug through the dirty, mud, and rocks will do this to a chain.
When I have to skid logs I "designate" one saw for the day to ring the bark of every cut I make before bucking it with my bigger saws. (It saves time in more way than one)
memory I was able to load those 3 pictures I was trying to show you, scroll up and take a look. I explained the chain a little also.
If the chain in this picture cuts ok right now it will not stay sharp very long at all.
Yes cutting wood drug through the dirty, mud, and rocks will do this to a chain.
When I have to skid logs I "designate" one saw for the day to ring the bark of every cut I make before bucking it with my bigger saws. (It saves time in more way than one)
memory I was able to load those 3 pictures I was trying to show you, scroll up and take a look. I explained the chain a little also.
OLD MAN GRINDER
ArboristSite Operative
I am having the same prob with my timberline, sharpened the chain on myi 660 and it would not cut hot butter, after reading the posts on this thread looks like I ordered the wrong file I should have ordered the 13/64 and not the 7/32, I did a search and a lot of the guys are using 7/32 on stihl chain so I went that way, looks like I was wrong, file is hitting the top of the tooth instead of where it should, so I guess I will order a 13/64 and try again and also check to make sure I have the tool properly centered etc.....maybe I should have went with the pferd which was another option I considered, too late now I have invested to much money in timberline to give up on it yet, will just hand sharpen in the mean time....
Bob......
Bob......
Natty Bumppo
ArboristSite Operative
I've been using the Timberline about a year or so. There have been times I haven't got the depth quite right and I thought the cutter was a little too high. After some fiddling with it I can usually get it right. And I frequently end up grinding the tie straps a bit, but I haven't worried about it. It works well for me. Sometimes I amaze myself and the chain cuts like a hot knife through butter. Other times it's sharper than it was, but not "dangerously" sharp, as I like.
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