Timbersport axes

[460magnum]

Any of you guys know where you can buy those fancy timbersport axes? I did a few searches and only came up with a cool thread with a bunch of videoes of guys cutting down huge trees with saws. I searched yahoo and came up with the lame ones. Any help?

 

[ccicora]

It depends on what you want and what level you are competing at. If you want a top of the line axe its about $400-450 (due to steel prices) a used one will fall below that. I sold a blank that I practiced with for $200
So I guess what the question for you is how good are you? What types of shows (Different wood needs different axes). And what is affordable for you?

Also check the Tuiti on Bailey's:
www.baileys-online.com

Later,
Chris

 

[Chopwood]

Unless you are chopping in shows or just want to hang one on your wall, don't bother. It's a waste of your money and the artist's time that forged the axe for specific duty. if you put one of these axes into anything harder than a clean piece of poplar, it's history. just my opinion

 

[husky394]

Take a look in the North American Lumberjack Guide:

www.starinfo.com/ljguide/lumberjack.html

Don Jasted has Oxhead racing axes in the classifid section, for $190. I have delt with Don in the past with no problems, but I don't know anything specific about racing with the Oxhead. If you want a conversation piece or wall hanger, they should be OK.

Carson Boswoth and Baileys are also listed on this site. I have delt with both of them, and they are helpful. Both of them carry "practice" axes and "woods" axes that may better suit your needs.

Racing axes may or may not be sold with a handle. They are also commonly sold as "blanks: (roughly machined castings or forgings that need to be ground before use). You need to ask before you buy. The last axe I had ground was 5-6 years ago, the cost at that time was $50. There are a few different "grinds" or shapes that are commonly used, and the angle of the cutting edge of the bit varys a few degrees. Widths of the cutting part of the axe vary from around 6" to over 8". A good grinder can make up a single axe for a beginner that will enable him/her to compete almost anywhere, but as folks get further into the sport, they almost always will have several axes to choose from, depending on wood size, species, hardness, quality (you don't use your best axe on dirty, knotty or extremely hard wood ) and how badly you want to beat your buddy. I have it on good authority that one well know competitor has over 100 axes.

If you are interested getting into competition, going out and buying an axe probably isn't the best thing to do. Check out the Instructional Guides section under the US axemen's association section in the above web page.

Don't let what we have said discourage you from trying to compete if that's what you want to do. It is great fun, and you will meet some great people.

 

[Arden Cogar Jr.]

I know quite a bit about axes, so please feel free to ask. The costs of the axes have increased over the the past two years because of the weak dollar versus the Aussie/Kiwi dollar. Three years ago, you could buy a top of the line tuatahi for $250. Now, it's $350 and that's without a handle. Hopefully, if the US dollar ever gets stronger, we'll return to those great ways. Personally, in 1993, I bought six brand new tuatahis, while I was in NZ, for the equivalent of $600 US dollars. I also bought a tui racing saw for $350 US. Those were the days. Now, those prices have tripled mainly due to the stronger aussie/kiwi dollar in relation to the US.

Again, in looking at racing axes, it would help to know what you're looking to do with it. If you would like to compete, that's great. The best places have been addressed above, or you could check out www.racingaxes.com which is a website hosted by Carson Bosworth. Carson sells practice axes and competition axes as a hobby. They're normally good quality, expecially for someone who is just getting interested in lumberjack sports.

Good luck and ask more questions. I've written a lot of articles about axe metal, axe grinding, axe stoning or sharpening, how to hang axes, and how to "read wood" when you set up a compeition log, etc. I enjoy discussing the issue.

All the best,
Arden Cogar Jr. aka Jamie

 

[ehp]

Jamie are you teaching people how to chop, workshops and stuff .
If you are like me and know nothing about chopping , to me it makes sense to learn the proper way before you get the bad habits

 

[ccicora]

If he is teaching and I can go I'll be there! You all have seen me chop via calender.

 

[MacDaddy]

I have 2 axes I will sell one a True Blue and the other is a Keech they both belonged to Dale Ryan and used at the world championships I dont know what place he got with them. But I will sell them if you like ,give me a call, Thanks Mike

 

[Arden Cogar Jr.]

Originally posted by ehp
Jamie are you teaching people how to chop, workshops and stuff .
If you are like me and know nothing about chopping , to me it makes sense to learn the proper way before you get the bad habits

Ed and Chris,
I'm always up for coaching people. Anyone who wants to learn only simply has to ask. I enjoy training a little too much and I find that if I teach people, I train more. If that makes any sense? Nothing like a school or anything, but one on one time in the wood heap. I bet I get about 8 or 10 people a year that come to my home for a weekend and I teach what I know, or develop what they have. I'm a firm believer in not teaching someone to chop like myself. I'm a firm believer in maximizing what the person has when they come to me. Everyone's different, but as long as the basics are down, you have to develop an individual's strong suits. For example, I have the fortunate opportunity to coach someone from the very beginning, my significant other and future wife, Kristy; this way, I can teach her the proper swing, then how to properly hit the log, then how to properly time the cadence of the swing to devlop rhythm. Those are the three steps to proper chopping and often people forget to learn them in a sequence and end up developing a lot of really bad habits. If anyone's interested, give me a shout.

All the best,
Jamie

 

[ehp]

For guys or girls like me that know nothing, this is the best place to start, I know nothing on chopping and I can prove it but I do know that it is better to learn the proper way before you get bad habits and if you get bad habits it is alot harder to fix later on, so learn correct forum from the start, cause power will do nothing if it is not used correct, Jamie I will get ahold of you and set something up cause it is time to learn

 

[MacDaddy]

some axes

 

[Arden Cogar Jr.]

Originally posted by macman101a
some axes

MacMan,
The top axe is a Keech Castings' Keesteel. What markings are on the bottom axe? Is it a True Blue?

All the best,
Jamie

 

[MacDaddy]

yes it is a true blue

 

[460magnum]

I am having a tough time deciding on an axe to buy. I like the ones shown and I am not a pro. I just want one. kinda stupid I guess?

 

[MacDaddy]

If you want one get one and then practice and you might turn out being realy good you never know tell you try just remember never use your race axe to practice always use a practice axe it is just to easy to mess up a good axe

 

[Arden Cogar Jr.]

Originally posted by macman101a
If you want one get one and then practice and you might turn out being realy good you never know tell you try just remember never use your race axe to practice always use a practice axe it is just to easy to mess up a good axe

Very wise advice. You should see the klunkers I use for practice. Whoa.....thick as picks and dull as all get out. Not wise for beginners to use really thick axes though - they're too hard to steer(ie., control how the axe travels). I **it you not, one of my practice axes is at least 30 degrees on the bevel with no edge. The other is a splitting axe I bought off of Carson Bosworth. I love the darn thing. I'm adding a 10 ounce wedge to it, to make it heavier so it's closer to a racing axe weight. The head is only 5" wide, which is perfect for me as it will require three hits on 12" logs or bigger. Further, it requires me to be really precise with my hit placement. Moreover, I can get more hits out of my practice logs and the logs don't have to be huge for me to get lots of hits. Hence, it's a great practice tool. Handle is wicked thick though and I'm too lazy to work it down.

All the best,
Jamie

 

[Lumberjack Rick]

Ok I realise that this thread is as old as th hills but, Jamie-are you still chopping? if so have you ever heard of an axe called the Stewart Racing Axe? I bought one of them (plus 6 others) from my coach.

Cheers Rick

 

[Arden Cogar Jr.]

Ok I realise that this thread is as old as th hills but, Jamie-are you still chopping? if so have you ever heard of an axe called the Stewart Racing Axe? I bought one of them (plus 6 others) from my coach.

Cheers Rick

Rick,
The "Stewart Racing Axe" is a new one on me. And I'm still chopping and intend to for many years to come. I've got a lot of go left in me.

Quick question, who's your coach? If you're in Western Australia and your coach is up in years, it's a good chance this axe was one of many that were made in Tassie back in the 60s and 70s. I believe that Clayton Stewart had the made, but I'm not certain. I've honestly never seen one. As such, what I'm relaying might not be accurate.

A true test is to take a bastard file and rub it on either the top or bottom of the (back from the edge a good 2") to see how hard it is. If the file cuts a lot, it's likely soft. If the file skates, it's likely hard (very much like a keesteel). If the file just leaves slight marks, it's likely good enough.

Good luck and welcome to the world of woodchopping.

All the best,
Jamie

 

[StihlBoy440]

I too am wanting to get into chopping. I just picked up a nice Hults Bruks 4.5lb single bit axe, its a good size axe to practice with it seems. The handle in it even has the metal safety pin through the handle and head. I am wanting to replace the handle because the current one is a little loose. Where is a good place to get a competition grade unfinished handle? Thanks!

 

[Arden Cogar Jr.]

I too am wanting to get into chopping. I just picked up a nice Hults Bruks 4.5lb single bit axe, its a good size axe to practice with it seems. The handle in it even has the metal safety pin through the handle and head. I am wanting to replace the handle because the current one is a little loose. Where is a good place to get a competition grade unfinished handle? Thanks!

Racing Axe handles - 31" in length are hard to come by and are not cheap.

Tuatahi sells them for about $50 USD.

There are folks here in the states that sell them for about $20. But I don't feel comfortable posting their email addresses on an open board. PM me and I'll send you their contact information.

All the best,
Jamie