Today's haul...

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Quietfly

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
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Location
Northern NJ
Today's haul was bitter sweet as my "clean" wood had a hidden bolt an wrecked a new chain.
20160319_171851.jpg
 
With time and experience you will get a feel for your chain and also crap that your hitting.
Your ears are a huge asset that alot of people overlook(not making fun of your ears), when your saw is running at 10/10 ..you are hearing a 'note ' that is perfect, when your saw is acting up the 'note' goes away.This applies for not only your saw running condition but also when you hit something with your chain, or a dull chain for that matter.
I want to say not necessarily in your case, but with experience you might have been able to save the chain.
Still looks like you got some nice chunks of wood.
G Vavra
 
Man that sucks hitting the bolt. That's a huge problem with a lot of the trees we remove for customers in my area. The trees have so much trash hidden in them you just never know what you might hit. I hit at least 3-4 hidden screws or bolts a year just bucking wood for the dump. Usually get a section of chain once every year or so as well. That's the main problem with "urban" trees. I won't be milling anything that comes from my customers yards unless it is just some really nice wood. Just to big of a risk for me. I will only mill stuff from my woods and even then Ill try to stay away from the edges and get most from the middle.
 
Sorry about the chains but it got me to thinking can you successfully mill with the tungsten tipped carbide chain ( not even sure it would cut through bolts and nails) or is not worth the added cost of the chains.
DaveL
 
Sorry about the chains but it got me to thinking can you successfully mill with the tungsten tipped carbide chain ( not even sure it would cut through bolts and nails) or is not worth the added cost of the chains.
DaveL

Yes you can, but the price of the chain is high and while there Carbide makes short work of metal it's less effective against stone, glass, ceramic an concrete which can be found in urban trees.
The tree lopper I work with keeps a couple of loops for dirty work. I can see lots of little and bigger chips have been taken off the cutters in the last year or so of use.
 
@BobL I made the trip to the only real chainsaw place that carries .063 chain. And had them make me two chains. I felt sick when i found i had cut through hidden screw. I took the new chain off and had to use my bench sharpener on it. It looked like parts of the screw were stuck onto the sawchain. I hope i didn't ruin it. Ill post pictures of it once i can run out to the garage.
I also took the depth gauages down using the DAF method. I tried to set them consistently for 6 degrees but had a real hard time getting consistent measurements.
 
I would use a round hand file and give it a try. I'm no pro by any means but it looks like you are removing to much of the cutter with the grinder. That chain does look better than the previous pics you posted in the other thread.
 
Yeah, well this was a new chain, that i hit a screw with. I hate to have ruined a new chain. It cut ok, better than the old one.
 
Yeah I saw where you said that in the other thread. Im sure the grinder made it easier to salvage the chain but now that it is in better shape I would still try a hand file on the cutters.
 
To increase the hook the grinding wheel needs to be angled or tipped over a bit more. The grinder manual should tell you how to do this.

If that was a new chain that had only been used once then a lot of metal has been removed. Was the damage that bad to all th teeth or just a few?

To increase the hook with a file in a file guide, then using a size larger file in the file guide for a smaller file, eg a13/64" file in a 3/16" guide will do it
 
The damage wasn't to all the teeth but id say maybe 1/3 of them. Ill see if i can increasethe hook on the chain before the next go around.
 
QF, I was looking again at your cutters and wanted to comment on them when you first posted but I was without a computer for a week or so and limited to my iPad so I couldn't edit images etc to illustrates my concerns. Anyway I got my computer back last night so I can add labels and lines to images and post some more info about your cutters.

The Cutter labelled A has a positive (forward) hook angle, but the angle with the horizontal is too steep and needs to be dropped to around 50º.
The cutter marked B has a negative (backward leaning) hook. This will not cut very efficiently, will not allow the saw to self feed, and will also generate more wear and tear on the B&C.
Negative raked cutters will especially reduce dry hard wood cutting performance.
The raker flat tops could do with some rounding over.
Your saw is so powerful that you probably don't notice all this that much but long term it's far better that everything is set up right to minimise wear and tear.

QFcutters.jpg
 
Am I correct to understand that cutter A has to be more "undercut"?
Correct, Like these, or in softwoods a little more.
malloffboblchain-jpg.492807
 
I read the following quote in a thread that's about 2 years old, but I think it needs to be said again:

Bob, I admire your posts and the time you take to help people you have never met. I went to a good private school and rarely met someone with the teaching ability you have. I wish Bob was my teacher at school.
 
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