Tools you use to work on saws...

[k_kindig11]

This is for some of you guys out there that do a decent amount of saw repair.

I'm getting to the point where I'm repairing saws quite a bit in my spare time. Right now I just use my trusty T-handle wrench to remove all bolts as I disassemble/re-assemble the saws I'm working on. I've been thinking about getting an impact driver or something like that to remove/install the bolts as I do my repairs. Something to save a little time and save my wrist. What do you all use for this? Any recommendations? I need something that I can set a torque limit so I don't strip out threads, especially on plastic crankcase saws like a ms290. I've been researching but there's not a lot of discussions pertaining to this topic.

 

[k_kindig11]

And when I say I need to be able to set the torque on it, I don't mean it has to have an actual torque reading on it (like a torque wrench). I just mean it needs some sort of torque pressure adjustment to mimmick the kind of Torque I would put on the screws as I Put them in by hand with my wrench.

 

[Greenland South]

I'm not a saw or engine pro by any stretch but in my experience using hand tools and fingers to do the work just might save you from galling a thread. We're talking fairly small nuts bolts and screws. How time are you going to save with pneumatic or electric tools?
My 2cw.

 

[k_kindig11]

I knew someone would reply with that response as I agree that hand feel is a much better way, but I'm looking for something mechanical and preferably operates off rechargeable battery. I'm not much concerned about time as I am mainly trying to save my wrist. After a while my wrist starts to feel it.

 

[AKDoug]

You will find that you need some special tools here and there. Flywheel pullers for Stihls (some work on Huskies), seal pullers (the Stihl is spendy but worth it) as well as store bought or homemade plates to block off intakes and exhausts to pressure test are just a few special tools you will need. You will also need some sort of pressure/vacuum tester to go with them.

My basic tools are my trusty T27 torx and 6mm T-handle for Stihl saws. A 4mm T-handle and a 3/16 T handle for Huskies. A good 3/8" drive socket set for whatever.

I do a lot of saws an I keep a Makita 18V impact around for a bunch of my work. It takes a 1/4" shank T27 bit as well as a conversion to a 3/8" drive for the sockets. You have to be VERY careful using the impact to put screws in. I primarily use it to disassemble. As far as torque goes, with a thumb and one finger grip on the T-handle, good common sense will take care of you.

 

[AKDoug]

I knew someone would reply with that response as I agree that hand feel is a much better way, but I'm looking for something mechanical and preferably operates off rechargeable battery. I'm not much concerned about time as I am mainly trying to save my wrist. After a while my wrist starts to feel it.

I know what you are going through. I've had surgery on one wrist already (carpal tunnel) and the other one could use it. The latest Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita lithium ion impact tools are expensive, but worth every penny. Since I use a cordless impact in a bunch of other professional uses, I have never tried any of the cheaper versions from Sear, Lowes or Depot. I find that using an impact I will run the screw in all the way...the first impact "click" I STOP.

 

[AKDoug]

I knew someone would reply with that response as I agree that hand feel is a much better way, but I'm looking for something mechanical and preferably operates off rechargeable battery. I'm not much concerned about time as I am mainly trying to save my wrist. After a while my wrist starts to feel it.

I know what you are going through. I've had surgery on one wrist already (carpal tunnel) and the other one could use it. The latest Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita lithium ion impact tools are expensive, but worth every penny. Since I use a cordless impact in a bunch of other professional uses, I have never tried any of the cheaper versions from Sear, Lowes or Depot. I find that using an impact I will run the screw in all the way...the first impact "click" I STOP.

 

[k_kindig11]

I know what you are going through. I've had surgery on one wrist already (carpal tunnel) and the other one could use it. The latest Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita lithium ion impact tools are expensive, but worth every penny. Since I use a cordless impact in a bunch of other professional uses, I have never tried any of the cheaper versions from Sear, Lowes or Depot. I find that using an impact I will run the screw in all the way...the first impact "click" I STOP.

That's what I'm trying to avoid (carpal tunnel). That's some good info, thank you. I've been looking at those exact brands (dewalt, makita, and milwaukee) in impact drivers - cordless, 1/4" drive, 18v - but wasn't sure if that would be the best option as far as the tools that are out there. Sounds like it would be a good option with some care and common sense. Thanks for that info.

 

[spike60]

You can have it both ways by using a cordless that's NOT an impact. I've got a small Snap-On tool that speeds up things like the top cover and starter screws. Has decent torque, but not enough that you need to worry about damaging anything.

 

[chadihman]

I have both of these Milwaukee tools and love them.
M12? Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4" Hex Impact Driver | Milwaukee Tool
M12? Cordless Lithium-Ion Screwdriver | Milwaukee Tool
Milwaukee has become my favorite. I've had Dewalt and Loads of Snap on impacts and drivers. Snap on was very nice and durable but the Milwaukee tools are half the price and work just as well even better. Milwaukee has great power and batteries hold up really well. A good impact driver will cut your tear down time in half or even more. The adjustable driver is what I use for assembly.

Starting any bolt by turning it backwards slowly with downward pressure until you feel and here the click before turning it in will avoid cross threading.

 

[k_kindig11]

I have both of these Milwaukee tools and love them.
M12? Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/4" Hex Impact Driver | Milwaukee Tool
M12? Cordless Lithium-Ion Screwdriver | Milwaukee Tool
Milwaukee has become my favorite. I've had Dewalt and Loads of Snap on impacts and drivers. Snap on was very nice and durable but the Milwaukee tools are half the price and work just as well even better. Milwaukee has great power and batteries hold up really well. A good impact driver will cut your tear down time in half or even more. The adjustable driver is what I use for assembly.

Starting any bolt by turning it backwards slowly with downward pressure until you feel and here the click before turning it in will avoid cross threading.

Exactly the info I'm lookin for. I will check those out. Thank you for your input.

 

[MRCo.]

As for powered stud removal / placing I use a cheapo Black & Decker electric screw driver I was given. Turns slow so threads are safe from high speed cross threads, then nip them up by hand. Then I have a Hilti 1/2 impact driver for heavy work. Nothing stops that. Full range of hand tools...torx, allen T handles, special crab adjusters, clutch pullers, assembly sleeves, pressure and vacuum testers and plates. Specialist OEM tools tend to be silly money, but Dolmar are very reasonable and interchange with many other brands. I have many Stihl ones- just ordered the bearing seal puller. Mabye I need to tidy the bench up and get a piccy.

 

[k_kindig11]

I just realized that I have those exact two saved in my eBay watch list that I was thinking of buying. Might just have to pull the trigger on them then. Where about do you set the driver when you assemble (torque setting)? I realize it might be a trial and error type deal but just give me a ballpark.

 

[k_kindig11]

The Milwaukee M12s I'm talkin about

 

[sld961]

I have the Makita 18v Lithium ion impact driver and love it. I use it for a lot of other things as well.

 

[XSKIER]

I have the m12 3/8 hammer drill, 3/8 90* drill, 1/4" impact, and 1/4" screwdriver. The screwdriver is my most used piece. 14 position clutch, great variable speed, and spindle lock. It's really a nice tool. As for the impact, they do make a 3/8" square in m12, which should give a nice increase in torque. It might be enough for clutches and flywheel nuts. I have a m18 1/4" impact that I switched over to 3/8" square about three years ago. It seemed to boost the torque by about 50%. If you can swing it, I'd recommend the m18 3/8" square impact and m12 1/4" driver. I don't think they offer a kit like that, so it would be a little more money for two kits.

I have 11 pieces of milwaukee cordless tools and 9 batteries. Most of which are about five years old used professionally. The batteries stihl last forever, and I've had the brushes replaced in the M18 square impact.

 

[Deprime]

+1 on the compact 12V Drill/Driver and Impact. I love the ones that I have. They are my go-to cordless tools. They have a surprising amount of torque.

I have the Bosch versions and they are my go to tools when it comes to working on saws.

12V Max Lithium Ion Impact Driver

12V Max 2-Speed Pocket Driver

They are compact and light. The Drill/Driver is good because you can set the driving torque via the clutch. The impact is great for removing the bolts/screws. Occasionally I'll get a stubborn bolt where I have to break out the T-handles or hex bit/ratchet but it takes care of the majority.

 

[Warped5]

Two of my faves ....

Absolutely indispensable .... can remove/clean/replace a recoil spring in about 3 minutes.



.. and this one just generally helps coping with life!

 

[exSW]

Absolutely indispensable .... can remove/clean/replace a recoil spring in about 3 minutes.



Seen that before,ya still havent told us where you got it.

 

[Warped5]

Seen that before,ya still havent told us where you got it.

Sure I did .... got mine on eBay. I see none there right now, but you can get them here: Dura Fix Aluminum Welding Aluminum Brazing Aluminum Soldering & Repair Rod is not sold on Ebay US or Amazon