Total Newb question about sharpening

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bozzchem

ArboristSite Member
Joined
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Location
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Rather than get a bench grinder or any other powered sharpener, I'd prefer to learn to sharpen by hand. I was given a link to a youtube video on the Vallorbe kit which looked like a nice kit to keep on hand and use for sharpening in the field.

The problem is this kit only seems to be sold overseas from the searches I've done.

I have a Husky 455 Rancher. The extra blade box I have indicates the following: Drive links = 72; Pitch = 3/8"; Gauge = 0.050"; File size = 7/32". I have to assume those are the right specs since it's a Husky replacement chain for my 20" bar. Give me a couple of months and I'll know enough to at least converse without sounding like a babbling idiot.

I'll be the first to admit, I don't know jack $hit. I do have a couple of dremels and can purchase the chainsaw sharpening kits for one but prefer to have something I can sharpen with out in the field. The Vallorbe kit looked like something a Newb could use and still get a decent edge in a relatively short period of time. I do have the 7/32 file given to me by the dealer but figure I'd just make things worse.

If you can provide a link to the Vallorbe kit or it's equivalent that will work with the chain parameters I listed above, I'll be most grateful. I'm still getting the hang of this and hitting the ground with a running chain seems to be a problem I need to get past. In the meantime, I'd rather learn to sharpen a chain than keep putting new ones on and screwing them up.

Much thanks!
 
You have the file and you have hands, all you need. This has been talked to death here, use the search feature and read on. Practice, practice, practice.
 
clearance said:
You have the file and you have hands, all you need. This has been talked to death here, use the search feature and read on. Practice, practice, practice.
Click to expand...

I've seen topics talked to death on sites where I am an expert on the topic. I know how frustrating it may seem since everyone has free access to the search engine. I've also found that search engines don't always find the answers sought and therefore tend to be a bit more understanding when the noobs make their posts. I trust you'll be as understanding.

I've walked many a noob through a computer rebuild, a car stereo build, a home theater build and other topics I'm proficient at. If it's a question I feel has been thoroughly covered in many posts, I simply don't respond.

I've seen many members get frustrated and lash out at noobs as well for not spending the many hours it may take scouring the search engine to find the answer to a singular question.

When a question is posed, there is nothing that requires you to answer. If you feel the topic has been beaten to death, move on. If your answer implies the user hasn't taken the time to research properly and your answer provides no factual information to help them, what is the point? I'm not trying to bust your balls, I merely asked a simple question and hope for a simple answer.

I can assure you that I am very familiar with the search engine provided by this site and have spent quite a bit of time with it looking for answers. I only ask a question when I can't find a direct answer via my searches.

My question again (boiled down): "If you can provide a link to the Vallorbe kit or it's equivalent that will work with the chain parameters I listed above, I'll be most grateful."

Much thanks to all.
 
Sorry if I offended you. To answer your question, no, I have never heard of it. I have searched up a few things here, doesn't always work out, oh well. Now humor me for a minute, what if you find this Vallorbe kit and then lose or misplace it, then what? I have run saw for over twenty years, handfiled the whole time. Can put a deadly edge on saw now but it took a lot of practice. Consider this.
 
No offense was taken. While I'm sure it's possible to offend me, it's not probable. I was merely stating my position in regards to my question.

I agree with you wholeheartedly that I need to learn to sharpen the chain as you are capable of doing so. Since you're not stopping by to show me how to do so, I'll only be able to learn how based on the information I glean from this and other sites.

Should I obtain the Vallorbe kit and lose it? -- Then I'm pretty much screwed. I figure the kit will be a starting place to where I can see the angles required and it will guide me. I've watched the video at the Stihl website and am continually trying to learn.

I can get the dremel kit or the Harbor Freight kit. Neither makes sense since they'll do me no good out in the woods. I can put a deadly edge on every knife in my house. Since none of them fit my chainsaw, I'll just wait to learn from those of you who can and are willing to teach me.
 
When I started running a saw it was on a big powerline right of way. Some guys on my crew sharpened my saw for me. Finally they lost patience. "F--- you, sharpen your own saw, here, watch me" So, I had a teacher.

It nice to have vice with a bright light shining on it, I started in the bush, on my knees, saw engine between my legs. When the saw is in the vise, with a new chain, you can see the chain well. What you want to do is mimic what you see when you file. A lot of chain now has witness marks towards the back of the tooth, on top. This mark is very helpfull. Sharpen your chain before it gets dull, when it stops cutting good, not when its bad.

You are familiar with computers, I am sure there is a video of someone hand filing chain, I have seen many pictures here. Maybe someone here can lead you to a helpfull thread, perhaps ask in another post, good luck/Jim.
 
Bozzchem,
Be carefull hitting the ground running, you could fall on your face.;) Better to take a few steps walking first.
If you can sharpen your knives without the aid of guides, you can sharpen your chains too. It's all a matter of knowing what angles you want and how to hold them. The witness marks clearance mentioned is a good starting place (about 30 to 35 degree depending on the chain). Keep about 1/5th of the file above the top of the tooth (this will manipulate how much hook you have on the tooth). I haven't used a round file in quite a while so all my advice may be corrected by those who do.

Andy
 
I don't use a hand file to sharpen my chain, but on the top of each cutter link there should be an indicator line showing the angle for filing. So if you keep your file parallel with that line, you should have the proper angle for your chain. I think I read that on Oregon chain's website.

Gary
 
redprospector said:
Bozzchem,
Be carefull hitting the ground running, you could fall on your face.;) Better to take a few steps walking first.
If you can sharpen your knives without the aid of guides, you can sharpen your chains too. It's all a matter of knowing what angles you want and how to hold them. The witness marks clearance mentioned is a good starting place (about 30 to 35 degree depending on the chain). Keep about 1/5th of the file above the top of the tooth (this will manipulate how much hook you have on the tooth). I haven't used a round file in quite a while so all my advice may be corrected by those who do.

Andy
Click to expand...

Im not exactly a newbie but you threw me .... if you dont use a round file how do you sharpen the tooth?
Mike
 
bozz,

If you can sharpen a knife on a stone freehand you should have no issue with the Chain and a file held in a depth guide.

The angles are up to you as shown in the video.
That part takes some "Feel" like freehand knife sharpening on a stone.
That comes with time and some screwups.

The depth is tricky without a guide on the file.
Depth sets the attack angle on the tooth using the height above centerline of the files radius.
Untill you get your angle down as second nature, run the guide.
They are cheap enough at 6-10 bucks and stay on the file so it wont get lost unless you lose the file.;)

Once you get comfy on the angle, just take off the guide and get comfy with depth freehand.

The bar clamp guides remove any and all "feel" that is needed to learn freehand. Just like the Lansky knife sharpening kits do.
Yeah, ya get a good edge when done, but it takes time to set up, and untill ya learn freehand you are screwed if ya don't have it with you in the woods, lose a piece or two etc.

It's also another satisfying skillset to toss in the toolbox between your ears.

I learned on a stump vice, and find using a bench vice awkward because I can't lean over the bar comfortably LOL!!!

One thing that always bugged me was "When is it sharp?".
It ain't like you can do a shave the hair check on your arm.

Again, like the knife on a stone, you can "Feel" the edge as it is cut by the file and as it removes burrs and forms the correct angles again.


It's one of those things where untill ya have tried a few times, folks telling ya what to do isn't gonna be clear.They can only get you in a place where you can start and begin to understand.

When you throw a baseball to another guy, how do you know when to release the ball? How would you explain to another guy when to release the ball?;)

Ya can't. Ya just have them throw the ball, and then tell 'em to release it sooner or later, while they keep trying.

Best of luck to ya!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
What helped me as a newbie was a Husqvarna Sharp Force filing guide. I think this is an excellent investment for a beginner. It will dress he rakes too...
 
I certainly haven't gotten the hand filing thing down yet but did purchase the NT chain sharpener and have done a number of the mods as described in other threads.

It does a remarkable job and I have quite a scar on my right thumb and part of the nail missing on my right middle finger to prove it.

I won't go into details since as soon as I saw the blood pouring out I realized just how stupid I was for doing what I did......but the chain was sharp as hell!

I did buy the Oregon hand sharpening kits to keep in my saw boxes so I can touch them up rather than having to take them in for a full redo. Haven't used them yet so really can't say anything other than they're in the saw boxes and I'll find out when I give them a try.

THX!
 
bozzchem said:
I certainly haven't gotten the hand filing thing down yet but did purchase the NT chain sharpener and have done a number of the mods as described in other threads.

It does a remarkable job and I have quite a scar on my right thumb and part of the nail missing on my right middle finger to prove it.

I won't go into details since as soon as I saw the blood pouring out I realized just how stupid I was for doing what I did......but the chain was sharp as hell!

I did buy the Oregon hand sharpening kits to keep in my saw boxes so I can touch them up rather than having to take them in for a full redo. Haven't used them yet so really can't say anything other than they're in the saw boxes and I'll find out when I give them a try.

THX!
Click to expand...
Please wear leather gloves to protect your hands. I like the Husky file guide.
Check out the Husky how to video on chain sharpening.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/support/video-library/
 
Rest assured I'll be wearing leather gloves from now on. I thought I was going to need stitches but the bleeding eventaully stopped so I didn't bother.

Total newb mistake.
 

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