Tree Problems, HELP!

[FLEX MEANSTREET]

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I have this nice Maple out back of our house that provides alot of shade and privacy for us. I dont know what is going on with it though, as you see some of the furthest branches did not flower out (no leaves) and it seems to be getting worse each year. I looks like every year the same branch's (and some new ones) are loosing a little more leaves, going in towards the tree. Can anyone help with this issue, I don't want to loose this tree? Any help would be very appreciated, and thank you!

 

[S Mc]

Flex, first let me say O - M - G what a beautiful setting. I am a horsewoman, myself.

Now back to the tree... Can you take a photo of the base of the tree as well?

How old is this tree. Some dieback is going to be natural in the grand scheme of things. What we need to do is walk around the tree looking for anything that might be contributing to a premature, gradual dieback that is more unusual.

Even though we love the appearance of turf and trees in our landscape settings, this is a conflict of interest in nature. Perhaps there are some cultural practices we can offer for the benefit of the tree. But we will need to see the base of the tree.

What activities go on around the tree? Heavily used? Lightly used? People only or are the horses allowed up in this area as well?

Sylvia

 

[FLEX MEANSTREET]

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Syliva,
Thanks so much, we are very blessed and love it. I built the house in 2004, moved in 2005. That area is just grass and alot of hot sun, but has no activity. The only thing drove over that area is the mower. So it does not get any use around it at all. I don't know what it could be but we have a smaller maple out front that did the same thing and is really died off so bad that I think I will have to take it down this fall, so I have to do something to save this one out back! I think the one out front has maybe died off due to the back fill over the roots?
Thanks for your help again!

 

[S Mc]

Flex, as soon as you said "I built the house in 2004"...construction damage takes awhile to show up. The tree out in front probably did die off due to fill over the roots.

This tree in back does not appear to have had its grade changed as I can see the root flare. However, go back in your mind during the construction process and picture where dirt was piled, where trucks drove, where staging took place. All of this will compact the soil and will impact the tree.

Another thing people don't consider is how the digging of the foundation, septic, well, etc can change the underground flow of water that the tree has been used to for so long.

Does this tree get additional water or are you dependent on natural rainfall?

It also might be beneficial to have a compaction test done around this tree. Aerating the soil throughout the root zone may prove helpful. It is not as good as preventing the damage in the first place, but can provide some benefits.

Sylvia

 

[S Mc]

Another thing, what was the ground like before you built? Did it already have the grass? or was it an open field?

Sylvia

 

[FLEX MEANSTREET]

This lot was woods, we cleared alot of pines and other trees. The septic is on the left side of it with the drain field below the tree about 20-25yds. I do not water it now but you think that would help? It gets alot of baking sun throughout the day. The grade was not changed too much on the back of the house but i agree about the front. Any other recommendations?

Thanks again

 

[S Mc]

Flex, from your description this tree has suffered a major change in its environment. Protection and support from other trees, which affects it both above and below ground. The construction that compacted the ground. Possible grade change, even if not much. The installation of the septic field. The list goes on.

I would, at the very least, get an organic mulch ring going around the tree out to the drip line that will recreate the forest floor it once had. I would start with a 2 - 3" layer. This will also help regulate soil temperature and moisture. An aeration program may be too expensive, but the mulch will help decompact the ground if the compaction is not too extreme, it will just take longer. Plan on augmenting this organic layer yearly for at least a couple more years until you have a nice "litter layer" going. Then you probably will be able to go longer between additions.

I would make sure that the tree is supplied with irrigation during drought periods. However, please note I am not recommending an underground irrigation system as this will further cut roots that may be struggling as it is. The water should be applied in a slow enough manner that it is able to penetrate the ground without simply running off (the mulch will help with that).

Sylvia

 

[FLEX MEANSTREET]

Thank you very much! This sounds very helpful and it can only help at this point. Once I mulch as described I have some Gator Bags that I can use to help irrigate. It is very dry at the base so I think this will be a good tool.

Thanks again for your help and have a good week.

 

[S Mc]

You are welcome and good luck.

Just remember, the proper place to water a large, established tree is out away from the trunk. The root crown, where the trunk bark meets the root bark at the base of the tree, actually needs to stay dry. The absorbing roots that are going to uptake the moisture and minerals from the ground are all much further out. They will start a few feet away from the trunk and extend beyond the drip line. So this is where the water needs to be applied.

Sylvia